Last post on Dec 02, 2013 at 4:13 PM
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Ford Escape, Mazda Tribute, SUV
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#4051 of 4149 Re: 2002 Ford Escape idle/stalling problem [fishinfrank]
Aug 11, 2011 (7:53 pm)
I wonder how many other escapes have a bad or broken computer wire? Over the past 2 years I have replaced every external part on the engine. And before I continue , I was going to buy coils from AZ until I found out they were $85 each. I got 6 new ones off ebay for $95, not each but for a set of 6. regardless, still had problems. back in april my daughter come in complaining about the escape stalling, quitting, etc. the usual stuff that was almost a daily thing. I got to where I would ignore her but it was a dangerous situation. it would stop in traffic and it's a miracle she didn't get hit. anyway, this particular day I went out to look at it. I had done so much I really had nothing else I could think of. Out of frustration I just kind of started lightly pounding on things and tugging. I happen to grab the harness going into the computer and the engine stalled! Started right up, grabbed it again and it quit running. turns out a red wire which was hot (12v) was broke inside the insulation and I'm guessing it was broken for a long time. but with the way it was broke it was still getting contact. but certain things like hitting the brakes or sometimes accelerating would pull just enough for that break to separate. since the rubber insulation is stretchy it would hold it together. and I was getting all kinds of false codes because of the power interruption. luckily there was enough wire sticking out of the plug for me to splice it. the escape has been fine every since. I really believe it has been like that from the beginning and I have spent $100's trying to solve it. all new sensors, all of them! new coils, probably $500 on dealerships that said it was fixed only to have it happen again a day later. and tools, I have all kinds of fancy electronics now. I even had the leads and such to connect to my computer so I can read all the diagnostics and reprogram the computer. my daughter things I should become a ford escape specialist now.
#4052 of 4149 Re: 2001 ford escape v6 [1wizard]
Aug 12, 2011 (10:16 am)
I had the same problem with my 02 Escape, it failed to start after being driven when the engine was hot. A new IAC and fuel pump did not correct the problem. After reading this post I had the crankshaft positioning sensor changed and it runs and starts great!!! Thanks for your post!
#4053 of 4149 intake gaskets are something to keep in mind
Aug 12, 2011 (2:43 pm)
when we first started having issues with the 01' escape I took it to a local mechanic. they did some test and said the intake gaskets were leaking. when it was cold it ran terrible but once it heated up the gaskets were sealing. I told them to fix it, repair cost was $130. Picked it up and a nice hot day and it ran great. next morning the weather was cool and it was running like crap again. I was going to take it back to them but decided I would see just what they had replaced. I took the intake manifold off and there were new gaskets. But, I looked in my repair manual and it said there were upper and lower gaskets. Turns out there is what looks like a spacer or adapter about 4 inches deep that the manifold sits on. there is another identical set of gaskets on the bottom of that adapter. You would think these mechanics would have taken another 5 minutes to replace the lower gaskets but no. Guess they anticipated it would act up again and I would bring it back. That is what you call job security for mechanics, some anyways.
The gaskets set, upper and lowers in one kits cost me about $8. The lower gaskets were burnt to a crisp. Once I replaced those then it was fixed and ran great, for a few months.
If you ever have problems with sputtering and stalling while your engine is cold those gaskets are something to look at. There are probably 8 bolts or so that hold the intake/plenum on. once they are out you can pretty much swing the plenum back so access the gaskets.
#4054 of 4149 Escape 2.0 FWD 5 spedd Running Problem
Aug 29, 2011 (9:45 am)
I own a 2003 Escape that I love. It has 122K mostly trouble free miles. Recently I replaced the head gasket and all the related gaskets, water pump & pulley, tension adjuster, serpentine belt, idler pulley, plugs and wires. etc. Followed all of the instructions as req'd to a "T".
Recently i got a code P0171 (lean condition bank 1) along with the check engine light. There are no vacuum leaks anywhere (already checked). Vehicle has become sluggish off the line, fuel economy has dropped from about 27 mpg to 21 mpg. Traveling at speed up a moderate grade I have to shift from 5th to 4th and sometimes to 3rd to get up the hill. Performance is suffering. Odd thing is that at night it runs better (it's cooler), during the day when the temp gets over 75 degrees it turns into a slug. It never was a formula one vehicle but the performance was pretty good for a 2.0 liter 4cylinder FWD with a 5 speed.
Before I start throwing a bunch of parts at this thing (Maf sensor (removed and cleaned), fuel pump, injectors (fuel injector cleaner in gas tank 2 bottles), Throttle body (cleaned) does anybody have an idea what might be causing this and the solution?
#4055 of 4149 05 Escape
Nov 18, 2011 (10:16 am)
I am have a problem with my 2005 Ford escape as far as the idle goes.. I can be driving 45 or more mph and the idle will go from 2000 to 1000 as if it was trying to cut off on me, as i am driving.. I also having problems with when i stop at lights and it completely stalling out, with me having to hurry and restart it. its been in the shop this would be the 4th time and ive only had the vehicle for 9 months. spending so far about 600.00 only because i have a limited warrente, i had a diagnostic that was following a faulty fuel module followed by a fuel pump.. still this hasn't fixed my stalling issue.. and I also noticed that the air bag sensor keeps coming on.. I have 4 kids and this is really scary to not know what is going on with my car. especially when its getting cold outside.
#4056 of 4149 Re: 2003 Ford Escape stalls out [coopchang]
Nov 25, 2011 (2:47 pm)
Stalling in todays common vehicles are do to allot of sensors and other technical factors. In my exp. Stalling can be due to a faulty EGR valve, A much needed tune up and not changing the oil on a timely basis not a mileage basis, I change mine sometimes every 1,500 miles, because while the engine is indeed running, and the wheels are not, you have no idea how many non running miles are on the engine due to stop signs, red lights and traffic.
#4057 of 4149 Re: 2002 Ford Escape idle/stalling problem [fishinfrank]
Nov 25, 2011 (2:58 pm)
You need to replace all coils when you have the engine disassembled, for cost sake or it will be another cost to uncover the intake manifold again, I recommend that everyone with coil issues replace theirs every 100,000 miles all 6 or 4 or be stranded. On a six cylinder people it is easy, take the plenum cover off with a 5/16 socket and disconnect the neg side of battery, then unscrew the coil and replace, reconnect the neg wire and your done, average cost of on coil is 75.00 for one not installed.
#4058 of 4149 2003 2.0 liter Escape is making me crazy
Nov 26, 2011 (10:21 am)
I have a 2003 Ford Escape 2.0 liter 5 speed with front drive only. It has an erratic idle situation that I cannot figure out. Car had a blown head gasket when purchased with 122k on it. Didn't pay a lot of money for the car so I wasn't concerned about the head gasket. Replaced the head asket, intake manifold gaskets, throttle body gasket, tension adjustment pulley, water pump, water pump pulley, timing belt etc and all was good for about 2 months, even took a 2k trip with no problems.
Shortly after that the car lost power, ran like crap and gas mileage dropped from about 26 to about 20-21 mpg. Got a p1074 code (lean condition bank 1).
Read some stuff on line about others that had similar problems and started the journey I am on.
Things I Have done since the head gasket change:
1. Idle air control valve
2. removed , cleaned, checked and reinstalled the fuel injectors with new O rings and caps.
3. replaced the o rings in the fuel rail
4. replaced the egr valve and the egr solenoid
5. Throttle position sensor
6. Vacuum eq control module
7. Mass air flow sensor
Checked the following for leaks, cracks etc.
air box & hoses
intake manifold (external for)
PCV Vale and hoses
All vacuum lines etc.
Here is what happens.
1. Cold start car is a bit difficult to start but once starts all is good.
RPMs holds at about 1200 until the temperature gauge moves up about 1/4 of the way and then it starts to decrease to about 850 rpm.
Idle starts to become a bit rough and the rpms drop to about 600.
The idle then gets taken up to about 1200 rpm and drops back to the 5-600 range within 10 seconds.
Idle is then taken up to about 1500 rpms for a second or two and starts to come back down
Idle then drops below 500.
The engine almost stalls (battery light comes on) but rallys and the rpms go up to about 2000 rpm for a couple of seconds and then start to drop down and almost stall again.
Rallys again and same scenario for about two or three more times and then stalls.
Engine restarts easily but will not idle normally after that.
Idle keeps bouncing up and down and stalling.
Problem is I love this little car. Great utility, pretty fun to drive, enough power and great gas mileage compared to my Ford Club Wagon with the 4.6 V-8.
Really want to keep it on the road but it is making me nuts and i am running out of ideas.
Any help would be greatly appreciated
#4059 of 4149 2001 Escape 3.0 L V6
Nov 27, 2011 (10:45 pm)
I purchased this car just over a month ago and have begun having problems similar to those described here. The first few times, it would stall shortly after being started (in varying temperatures), but never did this recur after restart. Today, I started the Escape and it was idling very rough (RPM shooting up past 2000 and then nearly stalling). Soon something started to smell hot, and the car stalled in the middle of the road. I was able to coast into a parking lot, but I'm at a complete loss. There were no warning lights of any kind. Anyone care to shed some light?
#4060 of 4149 Re: 2001 Escape 3.0 L V6 [paulkersey]
Dec 15, 2011 (8:36 am)
Did you find out what the problem was? I'm guessing the same as what we have had with our 02 Escape. It had been running rough, and then one night while my son was driving it he said it made a loud noise and started to smell really bad. When he got home we found the EGR valve had a hole in it. After having Ford dealership look at it we were told needed all 3 cat converters, plus EGR, etc., replaced, at a cost of over $3000. We took it to Midas, bought the parts ourselves, and had the job done for around $2300. Now, a month and a half later it suddenly started running bad again. Brought it in to Midis, and they said it's misfiring on several cylinders and needs coils and valve cover gasket set replaced, another $1000. We will again buy the parts and have it repaired to save about $250, but it is draining us dry! But it's the only car my son has to drive to work. Does ANYONE know what is the original cause of all this, or is it simply eveerything wearing out on a 10 year oldcar?