Last post on Mar 24, 2013 at 5:59 AM
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Ford Escape, Mazda Tribute, SUV
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#4035 of 4133 2002 Ford Escape idle/stalling problem
Jun 26, 2010 (3:15 pm)
I have the same problem as a lot of you. I drive my 2002 Escape on a hot day with or without the air on. Turn it off for a while the start it again or drive on a street that is 25mph with a lot of stop signs and it wants to stall when I push the accelerator pedal starting from a stop sign. I've done a complete 100,000 mile tune up (coil packs, plugs and manifold gaskets). I've seen that other people have replaced the IAC valve so I did that too. Other solutions that I've seen range from replacing components to using non ethanol gas but has anyone found THE fix?
#4036 of 4133 Re: 2002 Ford Escape idle/stalling problem [buyahorse]
Jul 07, 2010 (9:43 pm)
My 2003 Escape has had this since problem ever since I got it over 3 years ago. Whenever the temperature gets into the upper 90's, the car won't run. It will START just fine, but the instant I take my foot off the gas to shift into forward or reverse it will die just like if I turned off the key. In other words, it seems like hot weather sets the idle speed to "ZERO". When this last happened about 2 months ago, Ford charged me a whole lot of money to change my upper and lower intake gaskets and told me it was all fixed. So today once again the weather gets hot and STRANDED! The car finally started again after the sun went down. Stranded for about 3 hours. I am sick of this. It runs fine during the rest of the year but if it is hot it is worthless.
#4037 of 4133 2003 For Escape idle/stalling problem
Jul 08, 2010 (6:54 am)
My 2003 Ford Escape would also have starting problems when the temperature would be hot or a significant change in temperature in a short period of time. The engine would start but die as soon as you took your foot off the gas. I found that if you kept your foot on the gas and not let the engine return to idle speed that it would stay running (not recommended). After driving it a few miles, and not letting the rpm's return to idle, the problem went away. I have had this problem for the last several years. This vehicle also left my wife and kid stranding in parking lots at the mall and various after school activities. I went to the Ford dealership and they could not find the problem, and after several mechanic's later, I found a mechanic who had a passion finding or a competitive nature in finding problems like this. He replaced the accelerator control module, and I have not had the problem since. It was a fairly expense part, around $230.00. He thinks that it heats up in the hotter temperatures and malfunctions.
#4038 of 4133 Further update on Escape hard to start
Aug 01, 2010 (1:55 am)
Two earlier messages defined start problem and no-fix from dealer. Latest hiccup occurred in my garage - steering wheel again locked up in off-center position and unable to insert key, with much sweating and swearing eventually managed to turn wheel enough to get key in but no engine start (door locks actuated but nothing else), more muscle effort finally moved wheel enough to get engine start - it took considerable effort to move wheel!!!! Garage temp. was about 87F.
Trial and error after previous fiascos showed that when parking and switching off leaving the steering wheel centered allowed a perfect start next time; if wheel was only 10 degrees off center wheel locked up and key could not be inserted. It's obviously useless going back to dealer as they haven't a clue, but what the hell are Ford engineers doing? - There is surely enough evidence here to generate an investigation as there is most definitely a design fault somewhere; I guess it's the old story - after sales problems are of minor concern (money has been collected, bottom line improves) unless there are fatal accidents or safety related problems that may eventually get the governments attention.
It's a pity that I have to make a comparison but my Mercedes has no problems, is so well engineered and put together and the dealer appears to be on top of any technical questions that again US manufacturers are left in the dust.
#4039 of 4133 Re: 2002 Ford Escape idle/stalling problem [manymins14]
Aug 11, 2010 (11:47 am)
Did you ever resolve your problem? I have the same issue and it's very frustrating!
#4041 of 4133 possible pcv or vacuum problem
Aug 15, 2010 (5:11 pm)
i'm working on a 2001 escape with the v-6. when you hit the gas, it sounds like it's sucking a whole bunch of air then engine revs up. after that, the engine idles down very slowly. i've found a small rubber elbow that comes out the vacuum ports, and it's as if it's collapsed from having too much suction. i followed the tube that's attached it to a small box like thing under the injector rail. is that the pcv?? or some kind of max air sensor? the car won't really hold a steady speed because of this. any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
#4042 of 4133 Re: possible pcv or vacuum problem [himatnite]
Aug 16, 2010 (10:25 am)
Yes it is the PCV.
#4043 of 4133 Re: possible pcv or vacuum problem [davicho]
Aug 16, 2010 (2:52 pm)
ok, i replaced the pcv. when i went to start it to see if that fixed it, it would barely run, and sounded like it wasn't getting any oil. i checked to make sure i didn't miss anything, and restarted it. same thing. while i had it running, i was able to check to see if the pcv fixed my original problem. it didn't. i've been told that it might be the throttle position sensor. do i need to reset the pcm to solve this problem? i did not disconnect the battery when i was working on it. i hate throwing parts at it, because the tp sensor is almost 30 bucks. any help would be great.
#4044 of 4133 Re: possible pcv or vacuum problem [himatnite]
Aug 17, 2010 (8:25 am)
Stupid suggestion, but....
Did you replace the intake plenum gaskets? Assuming you removed the intake plenum to get to the fuel rail to get to the PCV. If you did, make sure they are seated correctly and that you did not gouch them when installing the plenum back on. If you did not replace them, replace them. You cannot re-use the same old gaskets once you have broken the seal by removing the intake plenum. Also word of advice, if you have not replaced the spark plugs, now would be a good time to do so otherwise you will have to remove the intake plenum once again to replace them later and have to replace gaskets as well again.