Last post on Dec 02, 2013 at 4:13 PM
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Ford Escape, Mazda Tribute, SUV
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#3619 of 4149 2005 Tribute engine knock..
Nov 06, 2007 (12:05 pm)
I have a 2005 Mazda Tribute 2.3L that has been running fine up until about a week ago. I started hearing a slight engine knock. Engine is not low on oil, I don't find any leaks, and have no warning lights on. The knock is constant and does not get louder when you accelerate. The Tribute has 70000+ miles on it. I was wondering if anybody else has experienced this problem and what was wrong.
#3620 of 4149 2001 Tribute Vibration / Hum
Nov 07, 2007 (8:28 am)
2001 Mazda Tribute, I feel a vibration in the gas pedal while decelerating. I also hear the vibration, like a loud hum or could be discribes as a rough whinning. The vibration is not extreme but noticeably different than normal. While accelerating the noise and pedal vibration goes away, or is at least far less. While stopped the noise and vibration are also not there, or is at least far less. I had suspected a hole in the exhaust but felt I would only hear not feel the problem. Any help would be appreciated.
#3621 of 4149 spark plug replacement
Nov 27, 2007 (6:23 am)
Anyone try to replace the plugs along the back of the V6 / 3L motor yet? The front 3 were the easiest I've ever done, but the back 3 are ridiculous. I think I have to actually remove the rear seats!! Any suggestions would be appreciated.
#3622 of 4149 Re: spark plug replacement [good55]
Nov 28, 2007 (1:08 pm)
To replace the back plugs on an escape/tribute 3.0 l v-6 you have to remove the upperintake, it is not as bad as everyone thinks, but you do have to also remove all the vacuum lines/hoses, the throttle cable that goes to the the t.body. You do not have to remove the throttle body. I have it down to a science, and only takes me about 45 minutes, The dealers want up to $400.00 to do this, The first time I did it, it took me about 3 hours, and since then I have done about 5 changes for my neigbors and I only charge $75.00 plus Parts. Do you live near Louisville, KY? Haha. Any more Info let me know!
#3623 of 4149 Intermittent hard start - NOT IAC
Dec 07, 2007 (10:35 am)
I have a 2001 Tribute 3.0L with 70K miles. I have been chasing a hard start problem for months.
Sometimes it will fire within 1 or 2 seconds as it should, other times it will crank for 5 to 10 seconds half a dozen times (sometimes 8 or 10 times) before it fires. It runs great, just dosen't like to start about 25% of the time.
First, yes I have replaced the IAC. As well as the battery, starter relay, cam sensor, and crank sensor. I have been to two Mazda dealers, one Ford dealer and two independents. Lots of guessing. There has never been any mil lights, codes or pending codes. It has been scanned at least a dozen times including koeo and koer.
The Ford dealer thought it was in the PCM and said a Mazda dealer could replace it under warranty (the PCM is covered 8 years/80K miles). However the Mazda dealer replaced the relay, says it starts fine, then suggested "if the problem returns, replace the fuel pump". The problem never went away and the fuel pump tests fine. I believe none of them has fixed the problem, because they have not kept the vehicle long enough to verify the problem and then do a proper diagnosis.
My gut feeling is that this is a contact/corrosion problem, because it is intermittent. This weekend I hope to work through Ford TSB 06-9-3 (connector terminal corrosion).
Has anyone had a similar starting problem that was not the IAC?
Dec 12, 2007 (12:49 pm)
I was under the hood of our 2003 Escape v-6 auto and notice a vaccum hose that appears to be coming from the tranny area but is not connected on the top side.
Flash-light and mirror in hand I looked and looked for a place to connect it but no luck.
Any idea of where this is supposed to go (comes up just to left of battery when facing the engine from front.)
#3625 of 4149 Re: Unkown hose [grifftr3]
Dec 15, 2007 (7:50 am)
If you are talking about the one that is looped under the throttle body, that is a vent tube, it just vents air pressure from tranny it is perfectly normal . it does NOT hook to anything. Hope this helps!
#3626 of 4149 Re: Intermittent hard start - NOT IAC [bruce48127]
Dec 15, 2007 (8:03 am)
You have either 1 or 2 problems. You need to replace Both the EGR "sniffer" and the EGR sensor. They are close to the firewall and come up from the exhaust close to your brake booster on the left side, but on the engine. they look like little flat electrical plug ins coming from a hard metal tube, with a rubber tube on them. The small one is around $30 and the big one is around $70. They get built up with carbon, just like your IAC and it wont let it idle right, and keeps dying. If you replace these unplug your battery for 15 minutes, so your computer can recalibrate the new parts, or else it will still do the same thing, and it still might, for about 30 to 50 miles. If that is not your problem, your second problem could be in the individual coil packs. There is no way of checking them correctly unless you are throwing a check engine light. They get hairline cracks in them and especially when it has been raining or very damp outside, is when they like to act up, because that moisture in the air finds its way to the cracks and breaks the electrical contact. They are expensive. $125.00 x 6. so your best bet is replace one, and if it still does it, put your old one back on and the new one on the next plug, etc... etc... process of elimination. Hopes this helps!
#3627 of 4149 Tribute/Start Idle problem in cold weather
Dec 26, 2007 (6:34 pm)
I have a 2001 Tribute LX. I have a consistent problem in the cold weather. Car starts fine, idles normal for about 10 seconds the DROPS down and chugs along horribly. The entire car shakes and you hear all these noises under the hood and it feels as if it is going to stall or worse explode. The only resolution is to sit in car and keep foot on gas, to bring up RPMS. This (foot ongas)needs to be done UNTIL the car temperature gauge reads 1/4 pass the cold mark. After this i can ease off gas and only until the temp gauge reads normal (middle mark), is it able to be driven without shaking etc. This takes about 15 minutes from start till Im able to drive it. After it is normal , it drives and runs perfectly. Again, it only happens in cold weather. Spring and summer it was fine. My mechanic first thought it was IAC then ran tests and thought it something else - he cleaned fuel lines or something. They did NOT change the IAC. Needless to say after i picked it up, and started it again 4 hours later in cold weather it was NOT fixed. Problem not fixed. I cannot emphasize enough the shaking and sounds that come everytime I 'cold start" it. Any advice? I was hoping it isthe IAC? I wish they would have tried that? It seems not to be an expensive part. Any suggestios or tips/advice/ideas would be greatly appreciated. I am at my wits end with the mechanic.Thanks