Last post on Dec 02, 2013 at 4:13 PM
You are in the Ford Escape
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Ford Escape, Mazda Tribute, SUV
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#3312 of 4149 Exhaust leak through the heater ducts!
Mar 16, 2006 (6:50 pm)
2002 Mazda Tribute. I bought it in August 2005. Using the air conditioning never showed the problem of strong exhaust smell in the duct system. Once I used the heater I had this "strong exhaust" smell. When I stop at the light it is so strong that I must turn the blower switch off. I took it to a garage and we hoist the car and found not leak at the donut. We opened the hood and found a very strong exhaust smell at the exhaust side of the engine. We heard the leak. I took it to a Mazda dealership in PA, and they checked it out. I got the message that their is no exhaust leak. Later found that this was one of their best Mechanic's, said. They sprayed lemon disinfect in the vent system saying that mildew is in the air condition system. I don't believe them. I do not have an odor when driving down the road with the air conditioning or heater motor on. I have been a mechanic since I was 15 years old. I am now 62 and still doing it but at a slower pace. Who can I contact to get this heard? Now I have 53,000 miles on the car. The exhaust manifold has a 3 way Cataylist valve system on it. That gives me warranty up to 80,000 miles on the exhaust manifold. I'm not happy that I am driving a car that isn't allowed to be on the road because of exhaust leaks according to the Pennsylvania inspection code. Something must be done soon. I feel they need to check this smell with a meter that detects exhaust Carbon M. Thanks Please get back to me on this.
PS. Today, I went down to the dealership and the service manager was very courteous and tried to smell the gases under the hood. I felt sorry for him because he had been sick with a head cold and couldn't smell. He offered to have another Mechanic look it over. I respect that. But after he said that we started to just touch the throttle under the hood and speed up the Rpms. He noticed the exhaust lead through sound. It is now being going over. I don't know where they will find the leak. Pleas respond if anyone has had this kind of problem with their Mazda or Escape. Thank You
#3314 of 4149 Re: Exhaust Manifold [escapenut]
Mar 17, 2006 (4:26 pm)
I don't understand what is being said when you said your friend said: RH manifold & LH manifold! It just doesn't make sense that both exhaust manifolds are cracked. In my case the odor is coming from the firewall side which is close to the windshield. I do know that the dealer said that if any manifold is cracked up to 50,000 miles you are protected through the warrantee. If above that amount up to 80,000 miles and you have a 3 way Catalist attached to exhaust manifold. By giving your vin number you will know if you have this 3 way set up. Do you get a lot of fume in the heater system??? That's my problem. What I understand you saying is that you are way past the 80,000 miles. Do you know that the exhaust manifold is steel? You could take it to a reliable indepenent garage and have them take it off and weld the manifold. That was one offer I got from a friend of mind who has been in the garage business for quite a while. You don't want to run the high risk of having gases in your car and perhaps die. Let me know what you think! Thanks
#3315 of 4149 Re: Exhaust Manifold [cruise1]
Mar 20, 2006 (5:59 am)
Can't remember which exhaust manifold it was but one of them was cracked, but not all the way through, so no exhaust fumes, etc. in the car yet. The friend indicated that it may have to replaced or fixed one of these days, but hopefully not nay time soon. It'd be a rather expensive fix, unless the bead-weld might fix the problem, if the it was fixable like that.
#3316 of 4149 Re: electrical problems after battery drained [pmeindl]
Mar 20, 2006 (10:55 am)
I have a 2001 Ford Escape. Lately some wierd problems have been happening, milage is currently at 67K. First thing to occur was that it wouldn't want to always crank up. It wouldn't roll over until keeping cranking it much longer than its supposed to. Hasn't done it in a while, I cleaned the battery terminals, but also has been cooler outside if that has something to do with it.
Next thing that occurred was the radiator fluid light is on constantly. The fluid was full when I check it, and the car never gets passed the middle mark on the thermostat, infact it never budges at all. Had the radiator flushed, still does it.
The most recent and the BIG BIG problem that worries me is that the overdrive light has started flashing. The speedometer started acting erractic around the same time, jumping from around 20mph to 60 although going the same speed. Got the transmission fluid changed.. it didnt do the overdrive light thing for a week. Fiance called today and said it started flashing again.... Haven't noticed any performance changes cept that today she said it seemed like it was changing gears a lot more than normal.
Please help, there is no possible way I can afford a new transmission... and I fear that is what it is coming too
#3317 of 4149 Re: [tonyford]
Mar 20, 2006 (12:44 pm)
Many thanks for clarifying your answer with response 3304. I went ahead and asked about 2005 Escapes, wanting to be sure as to whether or not your previous statement applied only through 2004 models.
#3318 of 4149 Re: electrical problems after battery drained [blakeescape]
Mar 21, 2006 (7:07 am)
1st problem sounds like an IAC (Idle Air Control motor) problem. Have you ever changed it? If not a Motorcraft replacement costs $50 and you can replace it in 10-15 minutes. If you can't do it, find a friend who knows how or take it a shop. You can clean the IAC with carb-cleaner and it'll help, but it'll have to be replaced soon anyway. The inside of the IAC gets all gummed and carboned-up (you'll notice it once you take it off) which hinders the controls actions. Couldn't hurt.
2nd problem I had when my '01 Escape was new, but filling the overflow tank to full mark cured the light coming on. In your case this could be the overflow tank sensor or possibly another sensor. You'll need to take this into a shop for them to diagnose or scan.
3rd problem may be a big one as you say. I'd take the Escape to a reputable tranny-shop instead the dealer if you can help it. The dealer will probably recommend complete replacement to the tune of $3K+. It may need it anyway, but at least a good tranny-shop can give you a few options. The CD4E transmission is known to be problematic if not pampered but maybe so anyway. I've done flushes about every 25K miles since new. Kind of expensive over the long-term, but I think it's provided some peace-of-mind and maybe some actual preventative help.
I'm not a mechanic, but have been on this board long-enough and have owned my Escape long enough to have seen quite a few of the same issues / fixes crop-up over the last several years.
#3319 of 4149 Re: electrical problems after battery drained [blakeescape]
Mar 21, 2006 (10:24 am)
I know about the radiator fill light, I had the exact same problem with my 2001 escape. Unfortunately you have to replace the overflow tank. It is a one piece sealed unit that houses the sensor. The sensor is nothing more than a ball that floats in a tube inside the tank. I guess over time the ball gets gunked up and sinks on it own, making contact with the sensors so the low light is constantly on. I tried at first to take the tank off and clean the ball/sensor but it is also enclosed (no way to get at it). Dont go to Ford on this one, they wanted close to 80.00 for the tank alone. I went to some ford parts stores online and ordered it for about 50.00. It is easy enough to put it on yourself. There are two screws holding it down and the tube is attached by a clamp. Hope this helps.
#3320 of 4149 re: blackeescape
Mar 22, 2006 (3:10 pm)
hi everybody. I work at AAMCO and I actually came across this website because a friend of mine is looking into buying a new mercury mariner and asked me to see what I could dig up about it-- if anyone has any info, please let me know
anyway...about that od light -- you need to get that thing into a tranny shop FAST!!! escapenut is right, the CD4E really ought to be called the CD$E. We see a LOT of car owners replacing these-- at low mileage, as compared with other domestic transmissions. But, if you go to a shop where they actually repair the transmission onsite, and if you catch the problem as early as possble, you can save yourself some money. Just FYI: the base price including torque converter should be $2621.18 or less (depending on labor rate)... most places will give you this information if you push for it -- ask least 3 times. As far as worst case goes... just hope you don't get there. I honestly think it was some kind of joke that ford stuck this transmission into this vehicle... it really does not seem appropriate given the other transmission options they have.
#3321 of 4149 re: blackeescape [tfzny]
Mar 22, 2006 (9:28 pm)
Wow thanks for the input... Taking it to see what I can get for trade-in tomorrow... :| Luckily I got it for pretty cheap...