Jeep Wrangler

Replying to: erickpl (Jun 30, 2009 9:21 am)

A PSC SG621M should last you virtually for ever with your setup and is obviously the ultimate of the options you list. I don't have any direct experience of it except in the H1, where it's adequate for the application though not over specified.
If you go that route you might want to get it ported with blanking plugs in case you ever want to go with cylinder assist in the future.
 
I've heard about too many problems with AGR to want to recommend them, though to be fair it's mainly been with their modified pumps.
 
Reman vs new? In theory new should be better but I've had and seen mixed experiences of good and bad with both. If you think that new components will always be better, ask yourself why new cars come with a warranty.
 
Best value would probably be the Durango Snow unit if you can return your old box as the core.
 
I understand what you say about your son driving, but the steering and braking should really be 100% regardless of who's in the left seat.

Replies to this message:
• erickpl (Jul 01, 2009 10:36 am)
  • mac24 (Jul 02, 2009 4:39 am)
    • erickpl (Jul 02, 2009 7:19 am) and 4 more...

Replying to: mac24 (Jul 01, 2009 5:59 am)

Mac I hear on the 100% thing. I'm just used to how it drives. He's not. If it were me as the only driver, I wouldn't be AS concerned. Your comments are the first I've heard about AGR being a possible problem.
 
PSC makes the SG621MR with the ports for hydro assist, but I don't plan on going that route with this TJ. 33's is it with moderate wheeling.
 
The Durango with snow option is 165 from AdvAuto (with core). The PSC is 335 shipped to my door from a 4x4 shop. Do you think it'll hold up sufficiently with 33x12.5's for onroad and offroad use and give me back responsive steering and minimized that dead spot in the middle? THAT is ultimately what I'm trying to take care of. When I have to make a huge steering adjustment just to keep the TJ straight or to follow a slight bend in the road, something ain't right.
 
I trust your word on these kinds of things and if you think a reman unit will work for my needs, then I'll trust it. If I get one and it sucks, I'll return with the lifetime warranty and go for a PSC.
 
The brakes I'm not worried about. I can lock them up if I need to, but the 2.5L is slow enough that it isn't a concern!
 
I have checked the linkages in the components underneath and they are all rock solid (JKS trackbar and ZJ tierod (new ends) and NO undue motion in ANY joint).
 
-Paul

Replies to this message:
• mac24 (Jul 02, 2009 4:39 am)
  • erickpl (Jul 02, 2009 7:19 am)
    • mac24 (Jul 03, 2009 6:48 am) and 3 more...

Replies to this message:
• mac24 (Jul 02, 2009 4:53 am)

Replying to: erickpl (Jul 01, 2009 10:36 am)

I trust your word on these kinds of things and if you think a reman unit will work for my needs, then I'll trust it.
 
Ah, you're trying to put me on the spot!
 
1: Any of the choices even a standard TJ unit, if properly built, will give responsive steering with no central dead spot
2: For a small improvement in performance and minimal cost the reman Dakota SP box is probably the best short term value.
3: The PSC would be my choice because it's overbuilt for a standard or minimally modified Jeep, and I'll be keeping mine forever.
 
However, my choices may not be the best for you, and it would also be possible to get a perfect reman from Advance and bad unit from PSC (and vice versa), so there's no perfect solution..
 
If you have five minutes to spare take a look at this AMG promo to see the kind of loads and stresses the PSC box is expected to withstand.

Replies to this message:
• erickpl (Jul 02, 2009 7:19 am)
  • mac24 (Jul 03, 2009 6:48 am)
    • erickpl (Jul 06, 2009 5:12 am) and 2 more...

Replying to: elbbirp (Jul 01, 2009 7:37 pm)

Do you have any secrets to disassembly, other than cutting torch?
 
I don't remember having that problem but can't you either push or pull the nut/flange assembly back down to the point where the flange will catch again and allow you to continue undoing the bolt?
Alternatively, is it possible to jamb the nut with a screwdriver/chisel/small rodent?
Just about anything would work as long as it's not your finger.
Final option is to cut the bolts and spring for a pair of new ones. You should be able to salvage the nuts after removal.
 
Have fun removing the pan, it's a fiddly job. It'll be easier if you raise the engine by releasing the mounts and inserting a couple of small wood blocks to support it.

Replying to: mac24 (Jul 02, 2009 4:39 am)

Not trying to put you on the spot. Your posts show you know your stuff.
 
Any more information on the Dakota SP box? Define short term value.
 
I plan to keep this thing for a while longer, even with the mileage it currently has.
 
Any plans to get rid of your H1? Would love to see more pics of it. My wife is still wanting one of those originals. She wants to run over people.
 
-Paul

Replies to this message:
• mac24 (Jul 03, 2009 6:48 am)
  • erickpl (Jul 06, 2009 5:12 am)
    • mac24 (Jul 07, 2009 6:04 am) and 1 more...

Replying to: erickpl (Jul 02, 2009 7:19 am)

Any more information on the Dakota SP box? Define short term value.
 
I think heavier duty and different valving than the standard Durango box. However, do bear in mind that when you read a post about how someone replaced their original box with a Durango one and it gave a fantastic improvement, that's usually because the original box was knackered and an OE replacement would probably have given the same result.
You often see similar posts relating to spark plugs, air filters, brake pads etc. Replace a worn out original with almost anything new and you'll see the same result.
 
In regard to short term value I was just comparing it in price and anticipated longevity to the PSC unit.
 
I plan to keep the H1 as long as the Jeep, i.e. until I'm too feeble to maintain and drive it any more.
 
Here's a pic after playing in some Florida mud.
 

Replies to this message:
• erickpl (Jul 06, 2009 5:12 am)
  • mac24 (Jul 07, 2009 6:04 am)
    • erickpl (Jul 07, 2009 8:34 am)

Replying to: mac24 (Jul 03, 2009 6:48 am)

Replies to this message:
• mac24 (Jul 07, 2009 6:04 am)
  • erickpl (Jul 07, 2009 8:34 am)

Replying to: erickpl (Jul 06, 2009 5:12 am)

You, sir, SUCK!
 Looks like fun.
 
Oh it is, though not so much the next day when you have to clean it.
 
I went and looked at my linkages which I KNEW to be good, but checked anyway. I found something. My driver side tie rod end was WAY loose. Cotter pin was still there, so I'm thinking I never tightened it down completely.............................I think I'll hold off on my steering box replacement and keep kicking myself for not checking the links sooner.
 
Well, rather than kick yourself maybe you need to re-evaluate the way you check the steering joints.
By far the easiest is to have a helper smoothly rotate the steering wheel half a turn from side to side (with the engine running, parking brake on, and the vehicle on a hard surface), while you lay at the front and study each joint through the full range of movement. Any wear or loosness will be very evident.
 
Also, you might want to check to see if you've over adjusted the steering box in your previous effort to eliminate the play that turned out to be the loose joint.

Replies to this message:
• erickpl (Jul 07, 2009 8:34 am)

Replying to: mac24 (Jul 07, 2009 6:04 am)