Last post on Sep 06, 2013 at 3:11 PM
You are in the Jeep Wrangler
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Jeep Wrangler, SUV
#21972 of 23397 Re: Jeep Wrangler with kids in car seats [cjurica]
Aug 23, 2006 (8:54 am)
I think the Unlimited is awesome - and with my 4 year old I find it easier to get him in and out of his car seat than the my old Audi A4 - lot more room
Also, you should be able to pick up an Unlimted at a great price I paid 22,500 for my Unlimted with the H package and 6 CD changer - that one now could probably be had at 21,500 to 22,000.
Look at Jeep.com and you can the different models and dealer search - you can also see the 2007 Wrangler - I perfer the 2006 unlimited model and it will soon become a classic - I'm not wild on the 4 doors - and being a new model could be buggy (I used to own a 2000 GC and it was buggy).
Once you get bit by the "wrangler fever" you can't get rid of it.
#21973 of 23397 Shifter problems
Aug 24, 2006 (3:50 pm)
I have had my 4" lift on my 06 unlimited for a while now and I was having trouble with the shifter not staying in 2nd and 4th gear. I did lower the transfer case when I got the lift, so im assuming thats thats the problem. How hard is it to either adjust the shifter or get a longer one so that I can fix the problem so that the shifter will not hit the body and get knocked out of gear. I didn't want to take it apart without knowing how in depth a project it would be. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
#21974 of 23397 Re: Shifter problems [brettz]
Aug 24, 2006 (4:01 pm)
The best solution is to return the t/c to its original position, which will return the lost ground clearance and aleviate and t/c shifting problems, then deal with the vibration issues using a correctly engineered solution i.e. drivetrain modifications.
However, you may get away with modifying the trim around the shifter boot, or possibly bending the shifter itself. There is no adjustment. A local welder may cut and sleeve the shifter for you. Also, both B&M and Hurst make a short throw shifter for earlier models so you might want to check with them.
#21975 of 23397 Re: bummer [steve_]
Aug 25, 2006 (11:46 am)
I would have bought one. Always did like the look of the old style Jeep truck.
#21976 of 23397 Re: Shifter problems [mac24]
Aug 25, 2006 (11:49 am)
Thanks Mac. I checked it out and found out from the manufactuer that I can bend the shifter 2-4 degrees to the front and that should fix the problem and would be the easiest.
Aug 26, 2006 (11:56 am)
Martin, Tom, Paul and anyone else who can help.
I have been hearing a clunking noise from the right front of my 2000 TJ when I hit moderate bumps. I have traced it to the connection between the top of thelink you disconnect(I don't know it's name) and the sway bar. I tried to tighten it, but the nut seems to be bottomed out or out of treads. It looks like there is a grommet between the bar and the link. My guess is I need to replace it (probably both sides). So, what do I need to buy or fix?
Remember, I don't do off road stuff, so I have never messed with that area. I would like to have any parts before I take it apart.
#21978 of 23397 Re: Sway Bar Noise [wheelsdown]
Aug 26, 2006 (1:34 pm)
Martin, Tom, Paul and anyone else who can help.
The Tomster has been way too quiet lately - maybe this will prompt him to get back into the fray!
#21979 of 23397 Re: Sway Bar Noise [tidester]
Aug 26, 2006 (1:45 pm)
Yep, I hope so.
#21980 of 23397 Re: Sway Bar Noise [wheelsdown]
Aug 26, 2006 (3:05 pm)
I can't produce Tom I'm afraid, but I can give an answer.
Yes, you need to need to replace the link on both sides. It's known as part #52087-771AB, LINK Sway Eliminator. The top fitting with a boot is located rather like a tie rod end and requires a 'pickle fork' or similar for removal, which you can borrow from your local Autozone.
It's easiest to remove the whole sway bar and links combined. Just remove the swaybar clamp bolts and the bolts through the bottom of the links. You can then comfortably work on the top of the links. An alternative to the pickle fork is a ball joint press, or you can strike either side of the location hole simultaneously with two large hammers. You can even clamp the sway bar in a vise and beat the link out with a large hammer (this method is therapeutic if you've had a bad day).
Reassemble in reverse order, torquing the swaybar clamps to 40 ft.lbs., the bottom link bolts to 70 ft.lbs., and the top link nuts to 45 ft.lbs.
#21981 of 23397 Serious Problem with 02 Wrangler Transmission! Please Help!
Aug 26, 2006 (4:41 pm)
I have an 02 Wrangler X Sport with an I6 engine and 5 speed manual transmission. It has very low miles. The truck is completly stock.
I was driving along today on the highway (going about 50-55 miles per hour) in 5th gear when all of a sudden the entire vehicle began to shake violently. No lights came on on the dashboard, but the engine started to cut out. I pulled over to the side instantally and released the clutch. Turned off the engine and got out to find smoke coming from around the transmission case under the front end of the vehicle. It smelled like burning moth balls, not burning rubber. I got it towed home on a flatbed truck, as I didn't want to drive it. I had just been out to a local dealership, and they had access to the vehicle. I think they may have shifted the 4 wheel drive lever around and somehow put it in-between 2H and 4H. The light didn't come on, on the dashboard saying that it was in 4H so that is why I didn't think to check. When I was driving it home from the dealer, the Jeep seemed to have trouble accelerating, especially when in 3, 4 and 5. It felt like something was holding it back. I checked to make sure the parking brake was on but didn't think to check if it was 100% in 2H. It starts and runs. I tried that once it was unloaded at the house. The transmission works, but I'm not going to try driving it again until I know what happened. It is now sitting in my driveway. I have no idea what to do.
What do you all think happened? How much, if any, damage was caused? What should I do with it?