Last post on Jul 06, 2013 at 3:20 AM
You are in the Toyota 4Runner
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Toyota 4Runner, SUV
#10845 of 11429 TOYOTA 4RUNNER - BODY METAL PROBLEM
Jul 15, 2005 (11:13 am)
In April of 2004 I leased my 3rd Toyota 4Runner. Two months later I noticed a 2 inch indentation below the left rear view mirror. No paint was broken. It looked like it was just pushed in. I had it taken out by a company called Dentpro. A few months later I noticed a similar indentation on the boot door just below the window. A month ago two more on these indenations appeared on thr boot door, all with no paint cracks. The idents do not seem to be caused by another vehicle. My Toyoto Dealer said while pushing a Toyota (4 Runner) by hand the metal indented. Has anyone experienced this problem?
Appreciate your reply. Thank you.
#10846 of 11429 Re: 10827 Tire Vibration
Jul 17, 2005 (9:54 am)
At least in my experience with a 2000 Limited 4WD, the vibration can be fixed.
First, change the front brake pads - no need to resurface the rotor (even GM says this is not needed except for bad scoring). The new pads add rigidity against minor rotor warp and stop vibration in the steering wheel. Use original Toyota pads of course. The other thing important to check is the lug nut torque. Even a few ft-lbs difference greatly affects the balance of the large wheels on the 4Runner. Untorque the lug nuts on a tire and retorque with a torque wrench using the appropriate star pattern. You will be amazed at the difference obtained.
Of course, also keep your drive train lubricated. There are 10-12 lub points for all of the splines and u-joints. Before finding the torque solution, I always found the vibration less after making sure the front spline was well packed.
And of course check your air pressure. Varying it a few pounds every month (e.g., 32 to 35 to 32) helps change where the tire is riding and smooth out tread wear.
Try these and let me know if any worked for you.
So all of these will help minimize vibration.
#10847 of 11429 Re: Explorer vs. 4Runner [kheintz1]
Jul 17, 2005 (8:48 pm)
Finally, in 9/03, I'd had quite enough of Ford, where quality is "Job None". I got rid of my miserable lemon Explorer (along with the transferable extended warranty), took a financial loss in the process (live and learn....), and bought a new '03, V8, AWD 4Runner Limited with X-REAS, DVD-Nav., Michelin Cross Terrains, etc..
If the warranty was from Ford, you can get a refund for the unused portion. Just contact the Ford Dealer where you purchased it. I just got a $500.00 refund. I also purchased a 4Runner after my "Explorer Experience".
#10848 of 11429 Re: what is 2 piece truck chasis vs unibody all about? [toyotaken]
Jul 19, 2005 (2:28 pm)
Couple of questions to a guy who seems to be able to simply describe things.
1. What is unsprung mass and why is it so important in handling? Is it different for unibody and ladder frames
2. Is a monocoque chassis the same as unibody?
3. Are solid axles better than independent suspension for towing?
4. Is recirculating ball steering getting replaced by Rack and Pinion because R & P is better or just less expensive to manufacture?
#10849 of 11429 Re: what is 2 piece truck chasis vs unibody all about? [lazzarich]
Jul 19, 2005 (4:15 pm)
First, thank you. I try to translate into "plain english" whenever possible. BTW, I had to look up some of this stuff so I hope this helps.
1. Unsprung weights are everyting not supported directly by the suspension, typically consisting of the weight of the wheels, tires, brakes, spindles, bearings, and part of weight of the half-shafts, springs, and suspension links. Because this part of a vehicle is in direct connection to the road and therefore subject to all of its imperfections, it is important that this weight be as low as possible, or at least much lower than the weight of the sprung part of the vehicle, in order that the wheels maintain contact with the road surface. It is not different in unibody or ladder frames, but unibodies often allow this to be lower as components leading to the wheels to be lower, they allow better on-road handling. The drawback is that when not on paved surfaces, being lower to the ground is not always a good thing. (Imagine a boy-racer celica going through a freshly plowed field)
2. Unibody and Monocoque are the same thing, just different terms.
3. For towing, you will get people who will argue this question to a standstill. Without question, solid axles are typically built more heavily. I have yet to see a Semi or full-sized dump truck with and independent rear suspension. However, the frame and suspension have alot to do with this. A big beam axle with a weak suspension will do you no good. My personal opinion is that if you're planning on doing any extensive towing, lean toward a solid rear axle.
4. Rack and pinion is a smaller package, faster in response(typically), and gives more "feel" of what's going on with the wheels and vehicle. Mostly it's for packaging and customer preference, although rule of large numbers prevail in that when you're producing a large number of the R&P's the cost per unit is lower.
Hope this all helps.
#10850 of 11429 unibody, etc.
Jul 19, 2005 (5:24 pm)
1. Unsprung weight -- think of this as everything below the springs, i.e., the mass that must be controlled by the springs and shocks. The heavier the unsprung mass, the harder it is for the springs and shocks to control it, the worse the ride and handling.
2. Agreed, unibody and monocoque are the same.
3. For towing, I lean prefer body and frame. I don't think independent rear suspension versus solid rear axle make any significant difference towing. However, most body and frame trucks also have a solid rear axle.
4. Rack and pinion is simply better than recirculating ball. Better feel, better tracking.
#10851 of 11429 Re: unibody, etc. [nedzel]
Jul 19, 2005 (8:11 pm)
Add one other thing with the R&P vs. recirculating ball. The recirc ball setup is a much heavier duty system. Usually used for larger trucks, semi's, etc. Not necessary with power assisted steering in modern cars.
Jul 20, 2005 (6:50 am)
if you do a lot of offroad work, you will wear out your R&P steering a lot faster than your recirc ball, because R&P is designed to be more precise and communicative. Who needs MORE communication and precision offroad? The shift to R&P steering in SUVs in the last decade merely marks the attitude of the automakers that trucks need to behave better on road to please consumers.
Also, once the rack goes, repairs to R&P steering become VERY expensive. Of course, this happens late in the life of the vehicle, so not everyone will care.
Funny sidenote: was reading the 50-year retrospective in C&D from last month, and they had a list of the fastest and slowest vehicles they had tested for every year back a good ways. What did I see listed for 1990, but my truck! Yes, the 4Runner SR5 V-6 was the slowest vehicle to 60 mph that C&D tested in 1990, with a time of 15.7 seconds. LOL
I thought it wasn't so bad, considering that 12 years later, the 2002 Prius was the slowest with a time of 13+ seconds. Besides, I know my truck is slow.
#10853 of 11429 offroad vs. onroad
Jul 20, 2005 (5:21 pm)
I suspect very few SUV owners will go offroad enough to wear out their rack and pinion steering.
My 2003 4Runner does 0-60 in about 7.5 seconds. That's about as fast as my first car -- a 1978 Trans Am with a 6.6 and 4-speed. And the 4Runner gets better mileage as well.
#10854 of 11429 2006 Hilux Surf (Japanese 4Runner)
Jul 21, 2005 (1:28 pm)
Ran across this link for the minor redesign of the '06 HiLux Surf. I imagine the changes for the 4Runner will be identical. A bit disappointed in the few color choice changes, as well as retaining the quirky HVAC controls, among other things. Click on the vertically stacked gray boxes.