- #3250 of 3260
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Re: steerin wheel vibrates [tborchman]
by fongerelli
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Feb 27, 2009 (10:52 am)
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Replying to: tborchman (Feb 27, 2009 10:22 am)
check your wheel balances and how many miles do you have on the yukon? I had my tie rods changed at 75k and I only have 99k now. Several places wanted me to change my pitman arm, idler arm and inter and outer tie rods and aligment which will cost approx 1,000. Which I don't have. So a friend of mine that works at wheels work came over and said to fill my boots on the sterring links that have zert fittings with grease and guess what? No more shimming at certain speeds!!! Unbelievable! All this time I took it to the dealer to have an oil and lube to my Yukon and when I took off the shield plate (2) on my Yukon, I discovered that none of the zert fitting were lubed. They were dry, so I filled them up with grease and the problem went away for me. I don't know what you have done with yours but check that first before spending lots of money for nothing.
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- #3251 of 3260
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Re: steerin wheel vibrates [fongerelli]
by tborchman
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Feb 27, 2009 (11:05 am)
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Replying to: fongerelli (Feb 27, 2009 10:52 am)
we have 44,000 and we are the original owners
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- #3252 of 3260
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Re: steerin wheel vibrates [tborchman]
by fongerelli
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Feb 27, 2009 (7:48 pm)
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Replying to: tborchman (Feb 27, 2009 11:05 am)
that is low miles. Did you change the wheels or do anything different? Does it vibrate all the time or only at certain speeds?
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- #3253 of 3260
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Re: steerin wheel vibrates [tborchman]
by fongerelli
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Feb 28, 2009 (8:36 am)
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Replying to: tborchman (Feb 27, 2009 11:05 am)
So you have added the sterring linkage, did it start to vibrate right after the installation of this linkage? And why was the linkage replaced?
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- #3254 of 3260
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Re: Driver door ajar and speedometer problem [nrogers]
by djtwisted
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Mar 13, 2009 (7:34 am)
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Replying to: nrogers (Dec 24, 2008 6:38 am)
i know about the speedometer problem and it was about $12 or so and alittle bit of electrical knowledge and time. (about 30 min) The instrument cluster has stepper motors that run the needles in the cluster. you can search the stepper motor on ebay and get them cheap. You will need to take the cluster out of the dash and disassemble it then you will have to pull the needles off the motors. But before you do this rotate the needles all the way to the left so you can match them up when replacing them. It also helps to mark where the needles lay with a pencil so you can erase them later. Pull the electrical circuit board from the plastic housing of the cluster. De-solder the old stepper motor and solder the new one in. Then re-assemble the cluster the same way you took it apart. I forgot, when taking the needles off of the cluster, it helps to use a fork to help you pull the needles so you don't break them off the shaft of the motors. they might be tight but just pull straight up and don't twist them off. Now with the door, it sounds like maybe one of the door trims that hold the lock buttons for the windows and doors might have had water in them at one time. Or it could be a loose connector in the door trim. Not for sure but i hope this gets you started in the right direction.
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- #3255 of 3260
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2008 GMC Yukon Denali Navigation Radio Questions
by akblaw
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Mar 14, 2009 (8:12 pm)
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I have a 2008 GMC Yukon XL Denali with the Navigation/Radio. I am trying to turn off the "Limit Features While Driving" but I cannot find that option on any of the menus. The book that came with the vehicle seems to be of no help it directs you to a page that says nothing about how to turn this feature off. Someone please help!! Kip
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- #3256 of 3260
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Re: factory subwoofer option '04 DXL' [denalidad]
by fixitrod
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Apr 24, 2009 (1:22 pm)
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Replying to: denalidad (Nov 30, 2008 1:16 pm)
The parts bin only has the rear panel which looks like it has a subwoofer but if you look closely thyis is not a grill you cdan see through. Only on the standard DFelco high end streo will a cub be there. I had a 2001 with this scenario. My 2003 came with the Bose setup which is probably what your 2004 has. The amplifier and subwoofer..all 6inches of it are under the center console. Pretty easy to get to. Its a decent system ; all these speakers sound great but remember the fidelity range is very narrow. (I listened to mine for about a year until the head unit broke. I went complete gut and added my own subs , amps etc.) Aftermarket increases this range and allows me to get the volume and flexibility for great bass. Do it you won't regret it if you really like good sounds in your truck
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- #3257 of 3260
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DTC P0101 MAF or VAF chk performance
by fixitrod
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Apr 24, 2009 (1:29 pm)
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I got a Chk engine light. I rescrewed the gas cap a couple of times but it came back. I got the code reader out and got the P0101 Mass air flow and VAF. This is one abbreviation I am not familiar with. Any help appreciatedI am not familiar with. It looks like my K&N air filter is pretty dirty so I am going to clean this and see if that addresses it. Any suggestions from the forum needed? I also run a Gibson free flow exhaust so this truck is used to plenty of air if that info will help. I have 4WD, 5.3L 2003 XL
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- #3258 of 3260
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Re: DTC P0101 MAF or VAF chk performance [fixitrod]
by rsht
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Apr 28, 2009 (5:39 am)
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Replying to: fixitrod (Apr 24, 2009 1:29 pm)
VAF stands for Vane Air Flow, I heard some call it the Vortex Air Flow ...
With the P0101 code, I would try to clean the MAF sensor area first (only use the spraying force from a spray can to clean the sensor area, Do not brush or touch it, see picture in the second URL below), its a good idea to remove the MAF unit from the vehicle for cleaning. Make sure all is dry before installing the MAF unit back on.
http://www.crcindustries.com/auto/content/products_ss.aspx?ID=90
http://www.tccoa.com/club/parts_pics/maf.jpg (for illustration purpose only)
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- #3259 of 3260
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Re: DTC P0101 MAF or VAF chk performance [rsht]
by fongerelli
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Apr 28, 2009 (7:02 am)
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Replying to: rsht (Apr 28, 2009 5:39 am)
thanks a lot for the info. I have another question in regards to my autoride adjustment. I have 35 inch Mud terrian on there and I would like to raise it another inch or so without the aftermarket lift kits. I know I can do it by adjusting the small rod on the sensor arm but when I look at it I don't see it twist or anything that shows me that it adjust? Can I fabricate a solid piece of steel and bend it and make it a inch or two longer and install it in place of the plastic rod and will that work to raise the yukon up some more? Help!
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