Last post on Oct 14, 2012 at 11:39 AM
You are in the Chevrolet Blazer
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Chevrolet Blazer, GMC Jimmy, SUV
May 21, 2012 (9:56 am)
What is the best way to remove decals from a car. Specifically, I a 2001 chevy blazer that has decals on each side of the doors (2dr). The truck sat and has not been driven (only 37k miles) but i'm afraid that you'll still be able to see the outlines. The paint is in great condition and doesn't look faded. Is this an easy process and is there an easy way to do it? Any advise would be great.
#526 of 535 Re: Removing Decals [steve_]
May 21, 2012 (11:52 am)
Great, thank you very much.
#527 of 535 Re: Removing Decals [seekingsaab]
by Stever@Edmunds HOST
May 21, 2012 (12:02 pm)
As you skim that other forum, you'll note that some detailers don't like to use heat at all. Worth a try picking it off with your fingernail at first.
#528 of 535 Re: Removing Decals [steve_]
May 21, 2012 (1:03 pm)
Steve, since you helped with my decal questions. Wondered if you had insight on my other question for the same vehicle. It's a 01 checy blazer and it has the spare tire mounted on the outside as an option was for that year, right? Is there anyway I could convert it back and take the mounted hardware off? I'm thinking of putting the bolts back in the holes with gromits or something that prevent water to get into the body.
#529 of 535 76 Chevy Blazer Cheyenne
May 21, 2012 (2:34 pm)
I have an opportunity to pickup a 76 blazer with only 37 k miles. Arizona car, very clean. 350 auto, ps, pb. any thing I should look for?????
#530 of 535 Re: Removing Decals [seekingsaab]
by Stever@Edmunds HOST
May 21, 2012 (3:18 pm)
I don't like spares mounted on the body but I don't much like them inside either - if they aren't screwed down (in a well preferably), they can become flying projectiles in a wreck. They get filthy, but I'd rather crank them up from underneath than lose interior cargo room.
But yeah, I wouldn't have any issue with plugging some holes with bolts and neoprene washers or wherever. I've drilled holes in other cars and used silicon to keep the water out. Plus you should have existing drain holes in the doors, etc. Be a good idea to make sure they aren't clogged up.
#531 of 535 Re: Removing Decals [steve_]
May 21, 2012 (4:53 pm)
Thanks appreciate it.
#532 of 535 03 Blazer RPM Fluctuates at highway speed
Jun 04, 2012 (1:44 pm)
Ok Here's the story.
I have a 2003 Blazer 4wd 4 door 4.3L Vortec V6
About 2 months ago the car was running fine and just died on me, wouldn't start up again. Later that day, started fine and ran ok, about 10 minutes later died again on the highway. Had it towed and it sat in the driveway for about 2 months. It would occasionally start, Idle fine, and stall about 10 minutes later.
The other day I replaced the Fuel Pump and Filter, and it started right up idled fine and stayed running until I shut it off. I drove it the next day, and it ran ok but seemed to have less power than it did before all this. I also noticed that at highway speeds of about 60+ MPH and about 2000 RPMs, the RPMs would fluctuate by about 200 up and back down. If I drop the speed down to about 55-60 and the RPMs to about 1800 it would stop fluctuating. It seems like when the Throttle is in a specific range, the RPMs will fluctuate.
Now before I go out and end up spending a small fortune, I would appreciate any input as to what may be causing this issue.
The CEL did come on, but it has pretty much always been on. It did not do this before it broke down.
My thinking was possibly the MAF sensor or clogged Injector, however the vehicle does idle fine and starts just as it used to, maybe even better.
Thanks in advance for any help anyone can provide.
P.S. Ironically, this all started the exact day that the check for my final payment on the car went through, Murphy's Law.
#533 of 535 The Blazer is too new.
Jun 05, 2012 (9:50 am)
Whenever I see a 1998- or later S10/S15 Chevrolet / GMC with problems, I attribute that to the vehicle being too new. There has not been enough time for routine maintenance to correct all the original GM factory defects, If a S10/S15 can be maintained for 15 years before the owner or owners gives up and isends ther S10/S15 to the auto salvage yard, the original GM problems have been fixed and the truck has become a good reliable vehicle. I must admit it is difficult to invest $10,000 into a vehicle over a period of time that is not worth $5000. That is exactly the way the auto repair shops feel and they are reluctant to work on a S10/S15 Chevrolet/GMC SUV or truck without a large deposit before they begin the work. Most of the time the auto repair shop will tell the customer to "take it somewhere else".
I seldom see any 1983 - 1997 S10/S15 Chevrolet/GMC SUV/trucks with problems that have not already been fixed.