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Chevy Blazer/GMC Jimmy

511 messages,  Last post on Nov 29, 2009 at 11:19 AM

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#480 of 511 Re: HELP!!!! clunk in front end HELP!!!!!!! [gmck9] by jlflemmons May 18, 2008 (4:57 pm)
Replying to: gmck9 (May 18, 2008 5:31 am) Guess what? Blazers don't have heater control valves. Coolant is always going through the core. I know, I was surprised to find out that they don't use a valve, too.   The biggest problem with dexcool it that GM was being more than optimistic with the life span. If changed every 5 yrs, 60K miles, it doesn't seem to sludge up. But if you let it get low and get a lot of air in the system, problems.   And never, ever let someone "top it off" with the green stuff. If this happens, the whole cooling system must be extensively flushed. The two chemistries just do not play together at all. Replies to this message: gmck9 (May 19, 2008 4:18 am)
#481 of 511 Re: HELP!!!! clunk in front end HELP!!!!!!! [jlflemmons] by gmck9 May 19, 2008 (4:18 am)
Replying to: jlflemmons (May 18, 2008 4:57 pm) Ya, I read that the chemicals that control corrosion when mixed(dexcool and the green coolant) will break each other down, so then there will be no corrosion defense. Also I read that there is an uncertainty about the gaskets breaking down when mixed or when switching from types of coolant. So I guess I'll just change my coolant like NOW ...I'm sure the previous owners haven't done ANYTHING to this vehicle except put gas in it and drive it.
#482 of 511 Re: GMC Jimmy ECM Fuse [gmck9] by darren04 May 19, 2008 (6:11 am)
Replying to: gmck9 (May 17, 2008 6:53 pm) So finally after way to long going through wires I have found the short. It was the plug going into the coil pack under the hood. The problem is still there because I'm not sure if its the plug itself or the actual coil pack. But thanks for all the help and ideas where too look. Now I just need that new plug and or coil pack, probably a good idea to replace both is what I'm thinking.   Thanks,   Darren
#483 of 511 Re: ABS/BRAKE LIGHT 2001Jimmy [ktsmith] by kcd2006 Jul 22, 2008 (3:27 pm)
Replying to: ktsmith (Oct 25, 2005 12:39 pm) First run diagnostic of ABS sensor for each tire. It may save you money! If one sensor is off replace it. Our repair shop did this to find the Front Pass. side sensor reading 0 at 5m/h. Our hub was fine, the sensor was bad. Called parts store was told that sensor was only available with aftermarket hub for $300. Called GM dealer sensor only $83.
#484 of 511 one thing leads to another . . . by isoia Aug 12, 2008 (10:35 pm)
Always seem to have problems after going through the carwash. Just replaced the fuel pump, broke down on the freeway, ignition wasn't making an electrical connection so my key was stuck, and I had absolutely no power. The problem was I needed to clean the two-way fuse underneath the battery. It ran beautifully since then. NOW . . . I have a problem with the fuel filter! Again, the problem arises after a trip to the carwash. I've replaced the fuel filter, but the hose connecting to the top of the filter is partly busted, and doesn't snap into place with the new filter. It is the RIGHT part with the right accessories. The previous owner used two O-Rings for the filter, but I've decided to use just one, and it's left me with a major fuel leak. Has anyone encountered this problem? Any suggestions, before having to replace the entire fuel line?   Thanks, iSOiA
#486 of 511 2000 GMC Jimmy by isoia Aug 12, 2008 (11:58 pm)
Always seem to have problems after going through the carwash. Just replaced the fuel pump, broke down on the freeway, ignition wasn't making an electrical connection so my key was stuck, and I had absolutely no power. The problem was I needed to clean the two-way fuse underneath the battery. It ran beautifully since then. NOW . . . I have a problem with the fuel filter! Again, the problem arises after a trip to the carwash. I've replaced the fuel filter, but the hose connecting to the top of the filter is partly busted, and doesn't snap into place with the new filter. It is the RIGHT part with the right accessories. The previous owner used two O-Rings for the filter, but I've decided to use just one, and it's left me with a major fuel leak. Has anyone encountered this problem? Any suggestions, before having to replace the entire fuel line?   Thanks, iSOiA
#487 of 511 service 4wd light on? by randypape Sep 30, 2008 (1:54 pm)
hello, as friend's 1999 gmc jimmy is giving him problems with the 4wd unit. he was told his electronic transfer case computer module is bad $550.00 and the actuator . is there a tell tale way of checking this out ? this shop wants over $900.00 to fix it. thanks Randy
#488 of 511 Re: power seats please help !!!! [mrakes] by Beckyj636 Dec 03, 2008 (12:43 pm)
Replying to: mrakes (Dec 05, 2005 6:52 pm) Where is this relay?   My power locks work, BUT neither power seat does.   I have the 96 Blazer
#489 of 511 Re: HELP!!!! clunk in front end HELP!!!!!!! [gmck9] by mwills Mar 07, 2009 (9:50 am)
Replying to: gmck9 (May 18, 2008 5:31 am) Hi - just learned a very expensive lesson concerning DEXCOOL coolant. Lost an engine, ended up replacing the engine, radiator, thermostat, pump, and hoses. We bought the car used, and as a precaution, had the cooling system drained, flushed, and new coolant. A couple years later we lose the engine. We were stranded on I5 about 30 miles from home. Had to limp home a few miles at the time (after filling with water) and wait for the engine to cool down. Later learned a head gasket blew in three places. The used replacement engine also had DEXCOOL contaminant because it wasn't flushed before going into storage; that took a while to clean up. Of course, in 2004 when the engine was put on the shelf, these problems weren't known. The problem with DEXCOOL is the slightest amount of air in the system will cause the anti-corrosion material to settle out. It will clog any water passageway, in the heads, radiator, heater, even the hoses. After much research, there are a few things you can do to prevent the damage. One is to remove the orange coolant, flush several times with water (VERY completely), and refill with the old style green coolant that uses silica as the anti-corrosion method. Be careful to avoid long life green coolant that is based on the same organic technology as the DEXCOOL [I think it is called OLT]. If you want to stay with the DEXCOOL, have the engine inspected to make sure there is no damage, or clogging in the radiator. Then get the new style thermostat from GM or NAPA that has a loose pin in the barrier wall that will allow air to pass and go to the coolant reservoir. This purges air from the cooling system. Drain, flush, and replace the DEXCOOL coolant every 2 years or 50,000 miles, whichever is first. Get the shop to make every effort to bleed all air from the system, and replace the thermostat every coolant change. If your radiator has a cap, replace that every time also, with a STANT lever cap [this brand is recommended by GM]. Aging radiator caps are often the culprit letting air into the cooling system. Good luck, our experience cost over $2400.

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