Chevy Blazer/GMC Jimmy

Replying to: jlflemmons (May 15, 2008 8:22 am)

ROFL!!!!!!! ...Well, after this mess gets taken care of(the napa control arm bushings put back in), yes I agree a dealer is gona be the safest bet. Where I moved from my local mechanic had a jimmy also for a personal vehicle, so he was all up on these things. That is a 5hr drive one way or I'd be going to him. Looks like i have some dealer shopping to do, but I'll surely let ya know progress on the noise for you and other people reading this whole post

Replies to this message:
• gmck9 (May 17, 2008 4:25 am)
  • darren04 (May 17, 2008 10:02 am)
    • jlflemmons (May 17, 2008 12:03 pm)
    • gmck9 (May 17, 2008 6:53 pm) and 1 more...

Replying to: darren04 (May 16, 2008 9:59 pm)

Well, first when diagnosing a problem.....what does the ECM fuse directly supply power to? A fuse is a load limiting device like a breaker in your house electrical pannel. Fuses are only to limit loads.....so the device(devices) on that fuse are malfunctioning, causing a higher load on that circuit. I looked up what fuse #10 does....if it is correct, #10 does pcm module, and ignition module, also, all the fuel injectors. Knowing these vehicles, and yours is a '95 model......I'd first start with having a fuel pressure gauge put on the fuel line check valve located behind the plenum(i thnik its spelled like that). If you havent changed the spyder assembly yet from the lines dry-rotting from heat under the plenum, then this may be causing the fuel pump to overwork trying to keep fuel pressure up in the 52 psi range. When you hook the fuel pressure gauge up to the check valve, start the engine to get pressure(over 50psi)....then shut engine off leaving the gauge on the vehicle.....it should stay the same....NO DROP AT ALL!!!!!!! If it moves....there ya go. New spyder assembly for you and its really expensive so I hope for you its not. And if that check comes back O.K.....then change the fuel filter to make sure its not clogged(good to change anyway with all this junk gas).....if those two things dont help....let us know.

Replies to this message:
• darren04 (May 17, 2008 10:02 am)
  • jlflemmons (May 17, 2008 12:03 pm)
  • gmck9 (May 17, 2008 6:53 pm)
    • darren04 (May 19, 2008 6:11 am)

Replying to: gmck9 (May 17, 2008 4:25 am)

Replies to this message:
• jlflemmons (May 17, 2008 12:03 pm)
• gmck9 (May 17, 2008 6:53 pm)
  • darren04 (May 19, 2008 6:11 am)

Replying to: darren04 (May 17, 2008 10:02 am)

Replying to: darren04 (May 17, 2008 10:02 am)

Replies to this message:
• darren04 (May 19, 2008 6:11 am)

Replying to: jlflemmons (May 15, 2008 8:22 am)

Good news noise is GONE!!!!!!! I picked my jimmy yesterday, and the work done at this Napa center was A-1!!!!!! He flipped the bolts around that the other mechanic put in backwards on my lower ball joints, fixed the alignment(steering wheel was cocked to 10 o'clock, and pulled to the right), and I now have the Napa upper control arm bushings in there. O.k. heres the weird thing.....when driving the car from the screwy mechanic to the good one....still the noise was there even though the new control arm bushings were in, so I'm wondering if it was from the lower ball joint bolts not being in the right way(maybe they wouldn't tighten all the way), or maybe it was from the cheap autozone crap parts?????Don't know......but all I care about is that annoying clunk is GONE!!!!!!
On a different subject....through all the searching of problems....I saw that a MAJOR issue with these newer Jimmys that use dexcool is that the heater cores clog(I see that post ALOT) I'm wondering if its from everyone says DONT let dexcool get low or it will sludge up.....well, what happens to your heater core when temp switch is set to A/C or the cool setting.....it closes the valve to allow coolant to flow through the core, so in my eyes....thats the same as letting it get low, and I'm thinking thats why it sludges up in the core......from driving in summer months with the temp set to cold(coolant just trickles through the core clogging it up!!!!! IS THIS CORRECT??????????should I switch to green coolant to avoid this problem? or will it mess the gaskets up???

Replies to this message:
• jlflemmons (May 18, 2008 4:57 pm)
  • gmck9 (May 19, 2008 4:18 am)
• mwills (Mar 07, 2009 9:50 am)

Replying to: gmck9 (May 18, 2008 5:31 am)

Replies to this message:
• gmck9 (May 19, 2008 4:18 am)

Replying to: jlflemmons (May 18, 2008 4:57 pm)

Ya, I read that the chemicals that control corrosion when mixed(dexcool and the green coolant) will break each other down, so then there will be no corrosion defense. Also I read that there is an uncertainty about the gaskets breaking down when mixed or when switching from types of coolant. So I guess I'll just change my coolant like NOW ...I'm sure the previous owners haven't done ANYTHING to this vehicle except put gas in it and drive it.

Replying to: gmck9 (May 17, 2008 6:53 pm)