- #334 of 508
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Re: Engine swap [90scjimmy]
by jake7g
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Dec 23, 2005 (6:33 pm)
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Replying to: 90scjimmy (Dec 19, 2005 2:53 pm)
I am currently doing a swap in a 91 s10 pickup. It had a 2.2 or 2.5 4 cyl manual transmission. I chose a 2000 s10 4.3 with automatic as the swap. Getting it in is not that bad. I had to move the cross member for the transmission and buy new motor mounts, but everything lined up fine and fit nicely. Also, I had to buy a new radiator. I sent my old harness and new harness to a company in Texas and they spliced them together so I could retain my dash cluster. Also, you have to have the Vehicle Anit Theft System (VATS)codes removed from the computer because your truck won't start due to the chip in the ignition which recognizes the computer on the 2000 and allows it to start. You can buy a bypass if you have the key from the 2000 with the chip for a few bucks. Also, you will have to buy something called cable x a product that converts the electronic spedometer signal into a signal that your manual cable can read. Besides all of this the conversion is quite simple. I have been working on mine for while and still can't seem to get it running. I just sent the harness back to have it checked out and they think my ignition is bad so they gave me a bypass. I will be putting the harness back next week and hopefully it will start. It ran previously if you put some gas in the throttle body but I wasn't getting the injectors to pulse. Hopefully this fixes it. Also, you will need to add a high pressure fuel pump. I got one from a typhoon or a cyclone from the same year as mine as they were fuel injected. Fits right in and the harness plugs right into it. You will also need to upgrade your fuel lines to something that can handle fuel injection. Non fuel injection flows at 10-12 lbs while the 2000 motor needs 55-60 lbs of pressure. Just to give you an idea on costs I bought the 2000 motor on ebay with automatic trans, floor shifter and complete harness and computer for about 1400 including shipping. The other stuff cost me about 400 or so.
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- #335 of 508
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Re: locked the keys in.......oooopppppssss [badapple]
by tidester HOST
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Dec 23, 2005 (8:42 pm)
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Replying to: badapple (Dec 19, 2005 8:12 pm)
I hope you didn't leave your engine running!
tidester, host
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- #336 of 508
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Re: Turn Signal Constant Clicking! [makpiette]
by bsc338
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Dec 26, 2005 (2:47 pm)
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Replying to: makpiette (Dec 15, 2005 6:03 am)
my 98 blazer did the same thing last year. Turn signals work fine but I heard clicking after using them. It was a multifunction switch which cost 400 bucks to dealer fix. Tricky repair cuz up in steering column under dash and air bag sensors have connections in the area. Works fine after replaced switch.
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- #337 of 508
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GM Customer Service Dept.
by bsc338
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Dec 26, 2005 (2:57 pm)
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When reverse and overdrive both failed same day in my 1998 Blazer, dealer said repaiing parts would cost 3300 and putting in a GM Remanufactured trans would cost 3700. Blazer had 59,000 miles and never towed or hauled anything heavy. I called GM Cust. Service 1-800 number and after much hem and haw they said if I did have 3700.00 repair job done, they would pay 50% of cost, in form of rebate check after I paid entire amt.
I okayed the repairs and after I got vehicle back then GM said they decided to pay only 40% of agreed cost "because of the mileage on the vehicle(?)".
For a vehicle that was babied since day one that I owned since brand new, I thought it ridiculous that trans would fail with less than 60 thousand miles on unit.
For GM to offer to only pay 50% was an insult and then to screw me again by changing refund amount was final straw.
I highly doubt GM will ever have any of my future business if this is how they treat a customer who had chevies since 1974.
Lots of others want car buyers business and I will hope they treat long time customers with a lot more respect. Goodby GM
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- #338 of 508
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Re: !!!!!WARNING!!!!! READ IF YOU HAVE A BLAZER [cman99]
by glenn2934
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Dec 27, 2005 (5:31 pm)
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Replying to: cman99 (Dec 18, 2005 10:40 am)
I had taken my 99 Blazer to a local chevy dealer for a no heat concern,1 hose going to the heater core was hot,the returning hose was cold. Thats what I told the service Advisor.They charged me over $100.00 to flush the system,worked for 3 days. Then they quoated me for a new heater core at $985.00. I drained the coolant,installed 2 bottles of Prestone HD cleaner,drove about 200 miles. Drained it out,purchased the prestone flush kit,and what came from the cooling system was terrible. I let it flush for appox. 30 min,Installed new coolant,not a problem since,that was last year. Total cost,less than $20.00
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- #339 of 508
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Chevy Blazer S10 4.3 Hard Start
by glenn2934
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Dec 27, 2005 (5:38 pm)
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I have a '99 S-10 Blazer 4.3 with 70K miles. In the past several months the fuel mileage has dropped and the engine cranks over several seconds before it runs,a little stumble at first when warm. Noticed black smoke from exhaust. I replaced plugs,air filter. I was told that the fuel pressure regulator inside the throtthe body is leaking down,causing excess fuel in the cylinders and a leakdown from the fuel pump. When it sits overnight it starts pretty good. Can anyone confirm this regulator leak down,I dont want to buy a throttle body if I dont have to. Any help would be appriciated. Thanks
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- #340 of 508
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Re: Mysterous Break Squeak [y2kdoc]
by 95gmcsle
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Jan 08, 2006 (12:40 am)
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Replying to: y2kdoc (May 28, 2005 9:00 am)
i have a transition year 95 jimmy sle, for some reason its got a lot of different years in it stock. but im haveing a problem with my breaks aswell, i get this loud hissing noise from the break peddle, its really rough to compress and i have to pump the breaks like an old camaro. after i can compress it all the way to the floor the hissing dissappers , is it possible that i have a leak from a vacum hose, or got break fluid from somewhere inside of it
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- #341 of 508
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how replace headlamp
by dwpttrsn
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Jan 08, 2006 (8:15 am)
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Please, help. I have a 95 Blazer with composite (not sealed beam) headlights. Need to replace the low beam, but can't figure how to get to it. The high beam bulbs are easily accessible, but I have to do the low beam.
Thanks for any help.
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- #342 of 508
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Re: I might be buying a Blazer. [arkitect]
by dwpttrsn
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Jan 08, 2006 (8:31 am)
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Replying to: arkitect (Dec 19, 2005 12:35 pm)
Wife has a '95 4-door Blazer, has been a pretty good, reliable vehicle. Has 125k miles, just had transmission rebuilt, only minor repairs otherwise. I have two concerns, though. I have heard that the 2-door Blazers are much more prone to rollover than the 4-door. I also have noticed that these vehicles are heavy and don't stop very well in the rain, and mine has ABS. I had a rear-end accident when I was young, so if I were you, I'd get something lighter that stops better and gets better gas mileage. Just a suggestion.
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- #343 of 508
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HEATER-A/C problems
by crazybob
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Jan 18, 2006 (2:16 pm)
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ok here is a switch for everyone. i have been reading on forums all day on how to fix your jimmy if it isnt blowing hot enough air when the heater or defroster isnt on. well on my 1998 GMC Jimmy S-10 4Door i have a problem to were it blows nothing but hot air. and this isnt warm its not mildly hot it can cause blisters if you leave your hand up there long enough. it comes out off all my vent unless i have them closed then it seeps through. when it is on a/c it still blows hot air if the fan in on the off position it lets air through from outside. i think it is stuck open or something and my engine heat is coming straight through. but i dont know. oh and sometimes it will start up all by its self and blow hard for 2 seconds and then kick off and the start up agian all by itself with the fan on the off position. now its acting up more than a troubled child on crack so can anyone help or have heard or seen this before. oh and it all started when i had a thermostat problem and my car overheated and when we replaced the thermostat and i started driving it agian it did this thanks.
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