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Land Rover Discovery, Land Rover Discovery Series II, Audio, Entertainment System, Navigation System, Performance Mods, SUV
#3668 of 5002 Vehicle history request
Mar 03, 2004 (2:57 pm)
My wife and I are new to these boards. We've owned a Land Rover before (2000 Series II) and are considering buying a used 2003 SE7. We've found one at Land Rover Denver South (although we only want to deal with Land Rover Flatirons - which is near Boulder where we live and is the dealership that we worked with last time).
I've seen people posting VIN numbers on here and getting the history of the vehicle that way. Can anyone do that or is there something that needs to be done in advance of the request.
If the former, the VIN number is SALTW16403A812692.
Mar 05, 2004 (7:22 am)
I know all about that. It's just me grumbling. Also I would like to let everyone who has had the transmission shuddering problem that I got the same problem a few weeks ago. Managed to troubleshoot it to having overfilled the transmission when I changed the tranny fluid. Make sure you check it when Idling cold, in Neutral, not Park. I ended up draining about a quart and a half from my Tranny and it runs smooth now. The problem occurs mostly when the transmission is hot due to expansion of the fluid. This creates high pressure which will normally expand, but can't when the transmission is overfilled.
#3670 of 5002 '03 Disco ABS Sensors
Mar 08, 2004 (6:13 am)
I have had my 03 for a total of 17 months now and put 31500 miles on her. On the whole, I love this truck! However, there are a few things that somewhat bother me where the future of the truck is concerned.
The ABS system in the Disco either has a major engineering flaw or is just junk. I have had both front end sensor hubs, the rotors and brakes on both sides all replaced because the ABS, Brake, HDC, and TC lights were continuously coming on and staying on. I am told that the ABS hubs are sensitive to getting brake dust and dirt on them and that those conditions will cause the light to come on.
The right front side was the last hub replaced less then a month ago. This weekend all the lights are back on again. I take the truck offroad alot, it gets dirty alot and I'm sure the hubs are constantly covered in mud or whatever. Even after cleaing them up the lights stay on. Taking it back in this week to see what the "new" problem is.
Anyone else having ABS issues?
#3671 of 5002 Discoman
Mar 08, 2004 (8:31 am)
I'm glad you got your truck fixed but I'm sure sorry it cost so much! Apparently the TPI (see post 3661) was the culprit but it took them all day to find it and fix it? Man that's aggravating.
It's probably good they replaced those small hoses at the juncture there by the TPI as they eventually get gummed up inside that "T" fitting and then you have driveability issues. Or the hoses crack and then all bets are off as to what the ECU will do. And ideally now you have true rubber gaskets at the air plenum. Some Rovers of our vintage still have cork and those degrade over time.
Sorry it took so long to get back to you, I've been out of town.
#3672 of 5002 ABS system
Mar 08, 2004 (8:39 am)
The Rover ABS system has proven to be utterly reliable for me, and impervious to crud. Of course my hubs are different than yours with the swivel housings etc., and the ABS rings inside that lube bath. Occasionally I'll whang my sensors and knock them out of place and my ABS stops working right, but a little tapping back into place does it.
I seriously doubt your problem is with the "hard" parts like hubs/sensors. It's got to be in the wiring or ECU.
My '96 had sporadic electrical problems with unrelated systems and I finally got a hint from another gent that my fuse block beneath the hood was the culprit. I disassembled it and cleaned all connections to restore "clean" power to the electrical systems (ECUs) and presto ALL the problems went away.
Your '03 is doubtless different but my fuse block is on the passenger side, midpoint of the engine, level with the intake manifold. It's about 3" wide by 10" long. There are some heavy black wire bundles entering it from beneath. I just took it apart in-place and cleaned all connections with a pencil eraser, blew out the dust and reconnected.
Mar 08, 2004 (11:34 am)
I thought my problems were solved, but nay. I got my truck back, and it is definitely running smoother, but the original problem remains. By the way I filed a claim with Shucks, for selling me the wrong plugs which (According to LR) caused the engine problem. The issue I have is something wierd. I can be driving down the road with no problem whatsoever, then all of a sudden my truck will lose power and shudder, for about 2-3 seconds, then the power comes back, and it may, or may not continue like this for awhile, or may go away after a couple or 3 instances in a row. It usually only happens after I have been driving for at least 20-30 minutes. Never right after cold starting. I don't think it's mechanical. I think I have an electrical problem of some sort that is random, and only happens when the truck is warmed up. I inspected my transmission, and discovered I had overfilled it when I changed the fluid, so I drained out the excess fluid, hoping that was the problem. But then it did it to me again yesterday. I only have a 20 minute drive to work, so on a normal day I will never see it. Only if I have to drive for a distance longer than about 20 miles does it happen. Unless I have a lot of stop and go driving, and then get on the freeway for the ride home. I don't know if it would be the ECU since it doesn't happen all the time. I am thinking about the fuse block issue you phrased in #3672 or something similar. Maybe one of those vacuum hoses didn't get replaced, but they don't look bad. The only ones I had like that were the Cruise Control hoses, and I cut the dry rotted part off them months ago. I sent an e-mail to my LR Rep, because I don't want to take them my truck, and they let it sit overnight, then they can't reproduce the problem in the morning. I need to talk to them so I can go pick up the rep, and drive on the freeway with him until it happens. Yesterday I noticed (after I was off the freeway and on a service road, that it did it and the speedo was all over the place and then settled out. If all I had to do was drive to and from work I wouldn't worry so much about fixing it until it got bad enough to track easily, but I am planning to drive cross country this Summer, and don't need something like this haunting my whole trip, or getting worse then (Like in the middle of Montana). Of course I get no lights or any other indications. LRNW says if it was ANY problem with the ECU I would have a "Check Engine" light. Let me know what you think.
#3674 of 5002 TIre Pressure
Mar 08, 2004 (12:46 pm)
What should the proper air pressure be on a DII with 16in Rims I am running with the Michelin XPC's
#3675 of 5002 discoman / tincup
Mar 08, 2004 (1:57 pm)
Do you know if your truck was ever examined for the sticking exhaust valves problem? Tincup, can you look it up? It doesn't affect all trucks but it did start with model year 1996. Let's pray to the gods of Guinness that it's had the fix already. Its symptoms are exactly what you describe. But it will store codes that are easily diagnosed... misfiring on one cylinder bank, etc.
If your speedo hunts all over the dial as it acts up then I think you've got an electrical problem. When I was having my electrical problems I'd flip on the stereo and get a big BAM out of the speakers, the speedo would momentarily drop to zero then pop back up, and all dash lights would go off. With loss of power momentarily. Then the idiot lights would all illuminate as if I'd just started it, then they'd go out and all was well.
Try the fuse block cleaning trick. Take your time, remove EVERY fusible link and clean its connections (in the block and on the link) and reassemble. Blow ALL the dust out. Clean the connections where the wiring bundles attach. I bet it will help a lot and it only takes 15-20 minutes and a phillips screwdriver and pencil.
#3676 of 5002 Tire pressure
Mar 08, 2004 (1:58 pm)
Rover calls for 38R / 28F for the DI but most people experiment and find better combinations... usually involving the same pressure fore and aft.
I run Nokian light truck tires rated for 85psi, but inflated to 50psi. I love 'em.