Last post on Sep 09, 2013 at 9:47 AM
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Land Rover Discovery, Land Rover Discovery Series II, Audio, Entertainment System, Navigation System, Performance Mods, SUV
Jan 15, 2003 (2:02 pm)
The 2003 Discovery is not unibody, it is body-on-frame with live axle's front and rear. It also does not have rack and pinion steering. You must have it confused with the 2003 Range Rover, which despite having these changes is actually a more accomplished off road vehicle than the 4.0-4.6 it replaced. The S model still comes with 16" wheels standard, and the prior years 16" wheels are also still available. Land Rover cannot prevent you from changing to whatever wheel and tire combination you want, it is your vehicle. There is just no approved 16" rim or tire for the SE and HSE with ACE. Ford has had little input into the current Discovery as the base vehicle is largely the same as the earlier Series II vehicles. Rant all you want, but please get your facts straight.
#2598 of 5002 16" wheels
Jan 15, 2003 (2:27 pm)
Have you looked at prior years' 16" wheels? I don't know the lug spacing but I bet they'd bolt right up to a SII hub. You might even look for some 16" steel NATO wheels and mount some gnarly treads on them, then rotate them onto the truck for weekend adventures? Take a look at Discoweb.org for suggestions about tires and wheels... they're a good resource for tech questions.
One thing to bear in mind, if you put tall tires and 16" wheels on an ACE truck, you're running a mild risk if you drive it hard in corners. ACE will hydraulically limit body/suspension roll but it can't anticipate how the tires themselves will deflect in hard cornering. Just be careful.
Jan 15, 2003 (2:46 pm)
16" rims for the DI or Defender won't work, different bolt pattern. But the 4.0-4.6 SE Range Rover had 16" rims as standard equipt. from 95-01 and these are compatable with the DII. Also all non-ACE equipped DII's in 99,00,01 and SD Models in 02 and S models in 03 come standard with 16" rims. So these will not be unavailable anytime soon as they have to be available for warranty coverage. Your comments on ACE equipped vehicles and the effect of 16" rims and tires is spot on.
#2600 of 5002 (smacking myself in the forehead)
Jan 15, 2003 (3:04 pm)
Of course! The SII Disco has the earlier Rangie axles... so of course they'll have that bolt pattern. Thanks for setting me straight. And this is good information for all you Disco offroaders to snip and tuck away somewhere for future reference.
#2601 of 5002 re: 2586 Towing with a Disco
Jan 16, 2003 (8:29 am)
I don't even own a Disco yet, so while I can't comment directly, I can offer some general towing advice.
The real issue with any tow vehicle and a heavy trailer is stability, not power. A short wheelbase vehicle like the Disco (100 inches) will have nowhere near the directional control of a longer wheelbase vehicle (like just about every other truck). It is a case of the tail wagging the dog. Serious accidents happen all the time with short trucks and long trailers.
Also, while it is possible to tow 4500 pounds with a rig "rated" for 5000, it is pushing the envelope and you are just asking for trouble. Be very suspicious of advertised trailer weights - they are almost universally lower than reality. The only sure way to know is to take it to a public scale and weigh it. And I have doubts that you will only be carrying 650 pounds of load in the trailer - full gray and black water tanks alone will likely add 350 pounds (and you can't always empty them right away). When I owned a 25 ft Nash, I carried almost 1500 pounds of stuff ocassionally. Drinking water, canned goods, personal gear, sporting goods like bikes, clothes, books, added installed equipment like a generator - it all adds up VERY quickly. I towed my 6000 pound (loaded) trailer with a 3/4 ton 7.4 liter Suburban, and did not feel as if it were overkill, especially in the mountains.
For your trailer I suggest a full-sized pickup or a long wheelbase SUV.
For further comments and opinions visit the various trailer newsgroups, like:
You can use this link to search their archives:
#2603 of 5002 Bridgestone Blizzaks (ie: "Winter Duelers" DM-Z2)
Jan 16, 2003 (9:11 pm)
"Has anyone replaced their stock 18" tires on their D2 with snow tires from Bridgestone."
I've recently purchased Blizzaks for my wife's
Jeep Liberty, as well as for my own 2001 Disco II.(However, I had only the stock 16" wheels.)
I can't praise these tires highly enough.
These tires are quiet and smooth on the highway
and they are nothing short of amazing on hard packed slippery snow or ice.
Do you absolutely need them for your Disco?
Probably not, a fresh set of stock Michelin XPC's are pretty decent in almost any conditions when combined with anti-locks & traction control.
Still if the conditions in your area warrant them, (Black Ice, etc.), they're well worth the dough, about $125-$130 apiece, mounted.
BTW, the geniuses in the Bridgestone marketing
dept have changed the name of the Blizzak for light trucks to "Winter Dueler",(Ugh!) DM-Z2.
Still, the tire is exceptional.
Important tip: These tires must come off in the
Spring. If you run them in warm weather the tread
will wear out very quickly.
Ideally, you should mount these up on separate rims. By doing this, I have previously gotten three seasons out them on my wife's Volvo.
#2604 of 5002 Question for Nanuq
Jan 21, 2003 (10:51 am)
I remember you mentioned that changing your brakes is simple... How can one determine if the rotors need to be turned? I'm a litle over 20K and I wanted to change the brakes on my DII myself, but was wondering if there is a site out there that would explains the details of changing the pads??
Jan 21, 2003 (11:46 am)
You might take a look at Discoweb.org -- they have an extensive "Tech" section.
There are specs for rotor replacement that measure minimum thickness, as well as (I believe) depth of grooves in the swept surface. As for grooves in the rotors, I have got them from picking up stones in river crossings and things, and they have gouged my rotors a little. I just kept using them and the pads mated to the new gouged surface, polished them up with continued use, and all is well. Once they reach minimum thickness however, you better consider changing them... there's the chance a rotor could fail and mechanically lock a wheel at speed.
As to changing the pads... my DI may be a little different than your DII, but it is soooooo simple! Jack up one side and remove both wheels (so you can rotate them front-to-back later) and remove the bolts holding the caliper to the hub. Don't let the caliper fall so it's hanging from the brake hose. Loose the bleed screw for the slave cylinder and push the pads/pistons back into the calipers until the pistons are ALL the way back in. You'll have a mess of brake fluid so haev newspapers down. When ready, close the bleed screw and then remove the cotter pins that pass thru the two pins that locate the pads in place. Withdraw the pins and out pop the pads! Put in new pads (paying attention to any anti-squeal doodads they may have provided) and slide the pad locating pins back in. Install two new cotter pins and slide the caliper back over the rotor, install its bolts and torque. Make sure there's no brake fluid on the rotor or pads, and then bleed the brakes. Simple! When you start driving her again you'll want to take it easy the first few times you brake, so the pads can mate to the rotor surface (100% contact) and you can slowly heat the pads a few times to "set" the compound and not glaze them over. If your brakes feel at all spongy then you need to bleed them again. Make sure you top off your brake fluid reservoir when finished. Oh, and make sure you set your tire pressures: my stock tires were 28psi front and 38psi rear... if you rotate them you'll want to check that.
This is just one of the simple jobs you can perform on your Disco... it's a good feeling to think YOU can work on her!
Best regards, -Bob
Jan 22, 2003 (10:57 am)
Thanks a million! Sounds simple enough. I remember reading something about it on discoweb.org, but the post had already been archived. I found the link after all. The instructions are also up on expeditionexchange.com under the tech section. It's nice to know we can save a few bucks if we had a little time to spare. Dealer costs ranges from $500 to $1000 depending on your area, and that's just for brakes all around. I purchased my pads from roverconnection.com for $200 and a few bucks for delivery. I thought I would stick with OEM pads for now and then try some new pads next time? Any suggestions on where to quality pads at a fair price?