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Toyota Highlander

10946 messages,  Last post on Nov 29, 2009 at 1:05 PM

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#10937 of 10946 Re: window resonance [ryan99] by phrosut Sep 29, 2009 (8:20 am)
Replying to: ryan99 (Sep 28, 2009 4:46 pm) Those rubber check panels are located on the inside of the rear side panels IIRC. I haven't done this mod, I just remember wwest explaining how to do it. Find where the vent grille is and the check panels are directly behind it.   We never use the moonroof and never lower the rear side windows, so it's been a non-issue for us.   Phil Replies to this message: ryan99 (Oct 17, 2009 4:06 pm)
#10938 of 10946 2009 LTD Remote Engine Start? by ghost2010 Sep 30, 2009 (8:42 pm)
Can someone tell me if the 2009 Hgihlander Limited comes standard with a remote engine start? A buddy of mine said it comes standard with the remote engine start. Can I see KBB mention it breifly saying it's included in the engine immobilizer feature on the Limited. But I don't see the remote engine start mentioned as a starndard feature on Edmunds or anywhere else.
#10939 of 10946 Re: window resonance [phrosut] by ryan99 Oct 17, 2009 (4:06 pm)
Replying to: phrosut (Sep 29, 2009 8:20 am) I added a sunroof wind deflector and "normalized" the moonroof. This seems to have taken care of 95% of the problem. It's bearable now.
#10940 of 10946 05 highlander disc rotor removal by drhagenmayer Nov 15, 2009 (7:54 am)
Does anyone know screw thread size that is used to remove the disc rotors. There are two threaded holes in each rotor that are used for this purpose. Also any tips on removing the rotors that are really rusted on. Replies to this message: wwest (Nov 15, 2009 8:34 am) smallv (Nov 15, 2009 5:33 pm) wwest (Nov 20, 2009 9:32 am)
#10941 of 10946 Re: 05 highlander disc rotor removal [drhagenmayer] by wwest Nov 15, 2009 (8:34 am)
Replying to: drhagenmayer (Nov 15, 2009 7:54 am) The bolts than held the calipers in place work.
#10942 of 10946 Re: 05 highlander disc rotor removal [drhagenmayer] by smallv Nov 15, 2009 (5:33 pm)
Replying to: drhagenmayer (Nov 15, 2009 7:54 am) The advice about the caliper bolts seems like a good tip. I've watched them do my brakes at speedy an I've seldom seen them use the removal bolts. Usually, I see then swing a big hammer. I believe they put the lug nuts on to protect the bolt threads and wail on the rotors between the lug nuts. I'm ususally sucessful with a wheel puller but when they are really rusted in place its pretty dangerous to use this method. The last time I had a pair really siezed on, the rotor came off like a cannon ball. Stupid human tricks aside, I do have a few brake change tips to pass on:   1) Always lower the car ont axle stands and block the tires before you start. Jacks are for raising cars, not holding them in place while you work on them.   2) Always remove the slider pins and lubricate them using the appropriate lubricant. If they are rusty replace them. Dry or marginally rusty sliders will soon sieze. Siezed calipers cause rotor damage, shimmy and eventual brake failure.   3) Cross Drilled Roters (After Market) are great but they are directional so left and right matter.   4) If the brake pistons are too dificult to push back into their cylenders then they are siezed and need to be replaced.   5) Put a large gag under the master cylender before you start pushing pistons back. This will catch any overflow. Push one cylender back at a time then mount and appy the brakes. If you try to push back more than one piston at a time the master cylender can overfow.   6) Princess Auto sells a great tools for spreading calipers.   7) If you go to a garage, never let them machine your rotors. Machined rotors will warp on the next usage and need to be replaced.   8) Follow a heat break in procedure after installing new rotors. The break-in process is usually included in the box. It involves several repetitions of firm braking from 20 Kilometers to zero. Replies to this message: wwest (Nov 20, 2009 9:32 am)
#10943 of 10946 Front wheels spin under wet acceleration by kevinkjm Nov 19, 2009 (7:11 pm)
Does this happen to anyone? We have a 2005 FWD 6cyl highlander which spins out with the slightest touch of the accelerator from a stop or accelerating during a slow turn when the roads are wet. I've been driving FWD cars for 25 years and am quite familiar with torque steer and all sorts of other FWD symptoms if one is aggressive, but the Highlander spins out under the most conservative of driving conditions.    I thought it was the OEM tires, so I swapped them out with a set of Yokahama Geolanders HTS and didn't really see any difference other than the increased road noise.    So now I'm puzzled... is it the tires? the vehicle's torque?    Does anyone else experience this with their Highlander?    Thanks    -Kevin Replies to this message: smallv (Nov 19, 2009 10:43 pm) electricdesign (Nov 29, 2009 1:05 pm)
#10944 of 10946 Re: Front wheels spin under wet acceleration [kevinkjm] by smallv Nov 19, 2009 (10:43 pm)
Replying to: kevinkjm (Nov 19, 2009 7:11 pm) I have a 2005 ADW V6 Highlander. The traction is amazing. However it is a relatively heavy vehicle with a very spunky engine. 2 Wheel Drive Wheel spin would not surprise me but might be worsened by:   - Over inflation of tires - Siezed Rear brake caliper sliders or parking brakes - Poor front wheel alignment - Worn-out front suspension   Your car is old enough that I'd first check the rear brakes. Jack it up, block the tires, put it in neutral and hand turn the rear wheels. The V6 is powerful enough that it can drag around some seriously siezed calipers without a driver noticing too much.   Try rolling back your tire pressure. Check your driveway or parking lot for Oil patch conditions that could be contaminating the contact surface of your tires.   Next time, go for AWD. The fuel economy is virtually the same, steering is superior (with VCS Relay removed), tires last longer and stress on the drive train is roughly cut in half.
#10945 of 10946 Re: 05 highlander disc rotor removal [smallv] by wwest Nov 20, 2009 (9:32 am)
Replying to: smallv (Nov 15, 2009 5:33 pm) #1 "...block the tires..." wheel "chocks"..??   To #2 I would also add that the slider pin barrells/cylinders should also be cleaned thoroughly.   I would also suggest that for most of us cross-drilled or slotted rotors are a waste of money and the majority of the time a detriment to braking, loss of CSA frictional surface.   #4 "..pistons are too difficult.." Hard to qualify "too difficult" absent personal experience.   To #7 I would add ONLY allow the rotors to be turned/machined if it can be shown that it is truly required using a micrometer.
#10946 of 10946 Re: Front wheels spin under wet acceleration [kevinkjm] by electricdesign Nov 29, 2009 (1:05 pm)
Replying to: kevinkjm (Nov 19, 2009 7:11 pm) We drive a 2004 FWD Highlander with 120,000 troublefree miles, and the traction is amazingly good on wet roads, no slip, no slide. The drivability, traction and steering on wet roads is very good. We drive on Firestone Destination tires inflated to 30 pounds. All the steering and suspension is still original. This is a GREAT car! We plan to be driving it for 5 more years. There must be something wrong with yours if you are having traction problems. Get the steering, suspension, brakes, tires & wheels checked. Good Luck, E.D. in Sunny Florida

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