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Toyota Highlander

10987 messages,  Last post on Mar 03, 2013 at 9:13 AM

You are in the Toyota Highlander Forum.

What is this discussion about? Toyota Highlander, SUV

Messages Page 1095 of 1100

#10933 of 10987 Re: window resonance [ryan99] by grahampeters

Sep 27, 2009 (3:58 pm)

Replying to: ryan99 (Sep 27, 2009 3:34 pm)
G'day
 
The noise when you wind down a rear window without winding down a front one is a bit of a shock. Unfortunately, the only fix seems to be to make sure you wind a front window down first. Training the kids does not take long as they complain harder than the parents over the buffeting!
 
Cheers
 
Graham

#10934 of 10987 Re: window resonance [ryan99] by phrosut

Sep 28, 2009 (12:02 pm)

Replying to: ryan99 (Sep 27, 2009 3:34 pm)
I believe wwest posted some time ago that if you remove the rubber check-valves in the rear side panels it stops most of the buffetting. He may see this and chime in.
 
Phil

#10935 of 10987 Re: window resonance [ryan99] by lmacmil

Sep 28, 2009 (2:56 pm)

Replying to: ryan99 (Sep 27, 2009 3:34 pm)
This affects all SUV/crossovers. Our Ford Explorer did the same thing.

#10936 of 10987 Re: window resonance [lmacmil] by ryan99

Sep 28, 2009 (5:46 pm)

Replying to: lmacmil (Sep 28, 2009 2:56 pm)
Thanks for the replys everybody. I have owned a Jeep Cherokee for 8 years and just today noticed it does the same thing! Not as bad as the highlander though...Where are these rubber check valves located? inside or out? On the doors or rear panels?

#10937 of 10987 Re: window resonance [ryan99] by phrosut

Sep 29, 2009 (9:20 am)

Replying to: ryan99 (Sep 28, 2009 5:46 pm)
Those rubber check panels are located on the inside of the rear side panels IIRC. I haven't done this mod, I just remember wwest explaining how to do it. Find where the vent grille is and the check panels are directly behind it.
 
We never use the moonroof and never lower the rear side windows, so it's been a non-issue for us.
 
Phil

#10938 of 10987 2009 LTD Remote Engine Start? by ghost2010

Sep 30, 2009 (9:42 pm)

Can someone tell me if the 2009 Hgihlander Limited comes standard with a remote engine start? A buddy of mine said it comes standard with the remote engine start. Can I see KBB mention it breifly saying it's included in the engine immobilizer feature on the Limited. But I don't see the remote engine start mentioned as a starndard feature on Edmunds or anywhere else.

#10939 of 10987 Re: window resonance [phrosut] by ryan99

Oct 17, 2009 (5:06 pm)

Replying to: phrosut (Sep 29, 2009 9:20 am)
I added a sunroof wind deflector and "normalized" the moonroof. This seems to have taken care of 95% of the problem. It's bearable now.

#10940 of 10987 05 highlander disc rotor removal by drhagenmayer

Nov 15, 2009 (8:54 am)

Does anyone know screw thread size that is used to remove the disc rotors. There are two threaded holes in each rotor that are used for this purpose. Also any tips on removing the rotors that are really rusted on.

#10941 of 10987 Re: 05 highlander disc rotor removal [drhagenmayer] by wwest

Nov 15, 2009 (9:34 am)

Replying to: drhagenmayer (Nov 15, 2009 8:54 am)
The bolts than held the calipers in place work.

#10942 of 10987 Re: 05 highlander disc rotor removal [drhagenmayer] by smallv

Nov 15, 2009 (6:33 pm)

Replying to: drhagenmayer (Nov 15, 2009 8:54 am)
The advice about the caliper bolts seems like a good tip. I've watched them do my brakes at speedy an I've seldom seen them use the removal bolts. Usually, I see then swing a big hammer. I believe they put the lug nuts on to protect the bolt threads and wail on the rotors between the lug nuts. I'm ususally sucessful with a wheel puller but when they are really rusted in place its pretty dangerous to use this method. The last time I had a pair really siezed on, the rotor came off like a cannon ball. Stupid human tricks aside, I do have a few brake change tips to pass on:
 
1) Always lower the car ont axle stands and block the tires before you start. Jacks are for raising cars, not holding them in place while you work on them.
 
2) Always remove the slider pins and lubricate them using the appropriate lubricant. If they are rusty replace them. Dry or marginally rusty sliders will soon sieze. Siezed calipers cause rotor damage, shimmy and eventual brake failure.
 
3) Cross Drilled Roters (After Market) are great but they are directional so left and right matter.
 
4) If the brake pistons are too dificult to push back into their cylenders then they are siezed and need to be replaced.
 
5) Put a large gag under the master cylender before you start pushing pistons back. This will catch any overflow. Push one cylender back at a time then mount and appy the brakes. If you try to push back more than one piston at a time the master cylender can overfow.
 
6) Princess Auto sells a great tools for spreading calipers.
 
7) If you go to a garage, never let them machine your rotors. Machined rotors will warp on the next usage and need to be replaced.
 
8) Follow a heat break in procedure after installing new rotors. The break-in process is usually included in the box. It involves several repetitions of firm braking from 20 Kilometers to zero.

Messages Page 1095 of 1100

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