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SUVs Toyota Highlander Toyota Highlander
10948 messages, Last post on Nov 30, 2009 at 10:34 AM
You are in the Toyota Highlander Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Replying to: jackmick656 (Apr 22, 2008 8:45 am) I traded it at 121,000 miles my front mud flaps also cracked at 30,000 and 60,000, and 100,000 I have them replaced under warranty at 30,000 However, the dealer treated me like a criminal when I explained that it was due to driving at freeway speeds (air pressure flexing the mud flap) and not me driving off-road. I called Toyota to inform them that almost every Highlander on the road has torn / cracked front mud flaps and it was a design defect. I paided for my own replacements at 60,000 and 100,000 I changed my own timing belt at 85,000 miles (don't trust dealer mechanics to work on my car, has too many bad experiences) Changed my own spark plugs (V6) at 100,000. Changed my front and rear diff fluids at 50,000 and 100,000 using synthetic Mobil 1 75-90 W oil. Changed my engine oil every 5,000 miles using Mobil 1 synthetic oil 5w-30 (with genuine Toyota oil filters) Changed my cabin air filter every 30,000 miles Changed my intake air filter every 15,000 miles Got rid of the factory tires at 30,000 and went to Michelin LTX MS, which lasted 60,000 (replaced at 90,000 with the same) Michelin LTX are awesome, great in the rain and snow, quite and handle well on dry roads. Replaced my original 03 tail light assemblies with an 04 style as I liked the look of ther red "star cluster" brake lamps Used a Garmin Street Pilot 2720 to navigate
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Replying to: nimrod99 (Apr 23, 2008 9:46 am) I replaced my front rotors at 40,000 and at 90,000 (due to rotor warp) Also replaced pads at the same time |
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Thanks a lot for your response, looks like I have a ways to go before I have any major maintenance to do. I am going to keep your messages for future maintenance needs, thanks again.
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Replying to: jackmick656 (Apr 23, 2008 2:10 pm) I still have mine, maybe I'll post it on eBay |
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I have the long life (red) coolant in my HL and the maintenance manual calls for a change at 30,000. Should I follow that schedule? Thanks.
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Replying to: jackmick656 (Apr 24, 2008 8:35 am) 
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Replying to: jackmick656 (Apr 24, 2008 8:35 am)
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Replying to: lmacmil (Apr 24, 2008 1:22 pm) It's cheap insurance to change the coolant every 2 years or 30,000 also change the thermostat while you are at it Changing the coolant with the good stuff (silicate free) It will increase the life of the water pump and protect the metal parts in the cooling circuit and allow better cooling efficiency |
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Replying to: planojoe1 (Jun 20, 2005 5:08 pm) The job was valued at over $5000. (3600 on extended warrantee, the rest on regular warantee. I did have to pay $50 for half of a 4 wheel alignment They found the rear bushings were worn out. This was causing rear end sway plus noise over bumps and excessive tire wear on the edges. To replace the businings, the had to replace both swing arms assemblies which also include the bearings for the rear wheels. The springs were sagging so they replaced them also. The net effect was an entirely new rear suspension for free. The car is 2003. The work was performed 2008. Previoulsy I had another $3000 of waranty work done on the front end including new stabilizer bar mounts, and at least one new bearing. The trick is finding a dealer who is hungry for the business. Some just don't care. When I first had undercarage noise with the highlander, I took it to the dealership that sold me the car. They told me they were going to have to do a diagnostic and road test (at my expense) before they would tell me if the work was under warrantee. Next I took the car to another dealership closer to where I work. They were happy to undertake a comprehensive warrante repair. They are a somewhat remote from the city core and hence eager to go the extra mile. One more thing to keep in mind. The parts took a long time to get and I had to do without the highlander for more than two-weeks. Its important to get these things done under warrantee becasue after the warrantee is up, it would cost less to scrap the car and buy a new one |
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Has anyone ever re-torqued the drive shaft bolt on a HL? If so was it necessary, thanks.
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