Last post on Oct 26, 2013 at 4:56 AM
You are in the Ford Explorer
What is this discussion about?
Ford Explorer, Mercury Mountaineer
Go to NHTSA to file a safety complaint.
Or call Monday-Friday (8 am to 8 pm ET) (888) 327-4236 TTY: (800)424-9153
Oct 23, 2001 (5:29 pm)
The 4.0L SOHC V6 is the engine with all the problems. The older 4.0L OHV, although a little less powerful, is a good engine that is relatively trouble free... granted, it is not a great design, and could use a bit more HP, but it gets the job done. It did not prevent me from getting speeding tickets in my 1994 Explorer. I have had lots of problems with my 2000 Explorer with the SOHC engine. Some issues are build quality, some are quality control related, and some are design flaws. The V6 SOHC engine is a fault ridden, badly designed engine. It has 3 timing chains! I've gone thru 2 sets of cam tensioners already.. and mine is not even 2 years old.
The 5.0 V6 was an old design engine taken from the LTD Crown Vic. That was a good engine that was pretty powerful, reliable and got pretty much the same mpg as the V6 SOHC. So, they dropped it and replaced it with a new 4.6L V8. The new 4.6L V8 is a new Ford design, and like most new designs, will probably be up to the consumer to be the guinea pigs and road test it for Ford. Personally, I would wait a year until they hammer out some of the bugs in the new Explorer.
#998 of 6400 mazman1
Oct 23, 2001 (9:46 pm)
Thanks for the info.
#999 of 6400 side view mirror replacement
Oct 23, 2001 (10:22 pm)
My sister hit the garage with her 96 explorer. The glass fell out of the right side mirror and broke. She asked a dealer about replacing the glass and they told her the whole unit has to be replaced for $300+. I looked at what is left in the mirror housing and can see a black plastic bracket that looks like was attachment point. That part looks broken off. When the tilt control is activated on the dash, white threaded holes rotate - looks like threaded rods attached to the glass would provide the movement in and out. My sister lost all the loose parts. She can't afford the dealer fix. She could just tape a stick-on mirror on the housing. I offered to look into a better fix but can't find any info. I can get a replacement unit for about $100 but do not know what to take apart to do the replacement. Someone said I would have to take the dash apart to feed the controls through. Does anyone have instructions or hints on how I can do this easily?
Oct 24, 2001 (6:09 am)
1. Buy a whole replacement mirror from a salvage yard and buy a technical service manual for the 96 Explorer. That should show you how to do it. I thinkthe book is $20 at the dealer. The Haynes book does not really go into the mirror assembly.
2. Buy a single mirror at Autozone or other auto parts store. It should be the type with mounting tape on its back, so you can just stick it on the remaining part of the mirror. Should be at most $25.
#1001 of 6400 Door noise
Oct 24, 2001 (1:16 pm)
Well, the dealer installed the parts today...window run and upper door moulding. Total for parts was ~$100; labor was ~$120. waited 2-1/2 hours for the truck, got it back, drove 1/2 mile and the noise is still there (even though they road tested and said it was gone).
Going to go to the Sears hardware store on the way home and try to get the star socket mazman referred to and see if the door latch posts are loose. It certainly couldn't hurt.
Oct 24, 2001 (2:39 pm)
I have a question about the theft/panic alarm on my 2000 Explorer. I remember on my 2 previous Explorers that if you reached through an open window to unlock a door (manually or hitting the power switch) and then opened a door, the horn would start to honk. I did this the other day in my truck, and nothing happened. Anyone know if this is how it is set up or am I just remembering wrong about it?
PS...Good luck to Ryster on the door rattle...I can't stand rattles in a car.
Oct 24, 2001 (6:41 pm)
Some advice if you are going to work on the latch posts.
1. Mark the current position with a marker or paint. "Liquid Paper" works fine as well. Mark both the vertical and horizontal. That way, you can always find the exact position where the bolt was before you started.
2. You may get some benefit from loosening the bolt and moving it (it can move about 1/4" in all directions) either inboard or outboard a bit. Too far in,and the door will not latch properly. Too far out, and the latch will engage, but the door will not be snug enough against the rubber mouldings so that it will rattle. Then tighten, and test if the door closes correctly. It took me several trial and error passes before I got it to a position where the door locked easily and the noise was gone. You don't need to move the post a lot to get a remarkable improvement.
3. My family has this problem, and maybe others do as well. Don't slam the doors! I think that continuously slamming the doors knocked the latch posts out of alignment. That's why, even though the driver's door gets the most use, the problem was on the passeger doors, which get slammed (abused) the most.
Oct 24, 2001 (6:48 pm)
My alarm, dealer installed, will activate whether I open the door from the inside or outside. What I found does disengage the alarm (other than the key FOB) is the driver door keypad.
It may not be a problem with the alarm or the install. It may just be the way the system works.
I know that I would not be crazy about it if I could deactivate the alarm by snaking a coat hanger thru the door moulding to the door's unlatch mechanism and unlocking the doors and deactivating the alarm.
That's probably why alarms are useless to everyone except for the insurance company discount. Starter and fuel pump cutoff switches are the way to go.
Oct 24, 2001 (8:46 pm)
Thanks for the ideas on side mirror.
#1006 of 6400 door posts
Oct 25, 2001 (7:38 pm)
Thanks for the info on the door posts. I checked mine and they are seated very tightly; no looseness.
What did your door rattle sound like? Mine is like a loud popping noise and the driving conditions which set it off can vary. I may get no noise on rough or coarse pavement, but hitting a slight dip on fresh pavement or rippled pavement may set it off. It is a very sharp pop. Is this the noise you were hearing?
I am still not convinced there isn't something loose inside the door (like the power window motor; or the actual mounting of the door latch inside the door.)
If I decide to play around with the latch post some more, how close to the "cradle" on the black bracket should the post be? I Have noticed that the latch post on my driver's door is noticeably farther outside the black bracket "cradle" area than the other doors. It seems hard to believe that there is such a minute tolerance on these posts to cause the door to rattle, but I am ready to try anything!
Also, which Torx socket did you purchase? The hardware store had several. (T50, T51, etc.) Was it 3/8 size?