Last post on May 05, 2013 at 7:47 AM
You are in the Ford Explorer
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Ford Explorer, Mercury Mountaineer
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#6360 of 6385 Re: Ford Explorer 2000 XLT [ladyscorned]
Mar 19, 2012 (10:18 am)
The high pitched whine is usually an idler pully that's wearing out and needs replacement - pretty common, no big deal, cheap to replace and easy. Could be an alternator too, but most likely the pully.
There are no inherent weaknesses in the 2000 Explorers. Some years there are, but that one is very strong, tough, and dependable. The shift motor for the 4WD can go bad after several years - and if it quits or has trouble going into or out of 4WD, that's what it is, and it's a $400 or so repair. Other than that, they will run forever. I've had 8 Explorers starting with 94, up to 2012. We love them. Their design is always superior and ahead of the curve, even though a 4-Runner may run longer without issues. Ford invents the feature, others eventually adopt it (like folding 3rd row seats - I know yours doesn't have them), except for GM, who never seems to get it. You should end up loving this truck. You can drive it over curbs, and it won't bend. Good luck!
#6361 of 6385 Re: Ford Explorer 2000 XLT [nvbanker]
Mar 19, 2012 (1:39 pm)
thanks a bunch for the heads up
I love it so far I think the tires are pricey but should last a while. It's way better thus far than my Taurus was. The Taurus cost me $300 a month in repairs but then again the person that had it before me ran the crap outta that Taurus. I only paid $1,300 for that car and it got me around for a year and I have a lot of miles I drive.
This Explorer cost a little money off the bat and I was worried but it was minor stuff mostly. I took on a payment for it but I had to at some point because it's like they say you get what you pay for.
Sounds like I made a good deal on it. I will check to idler pulley myself. Thanks for the advice because when I tell anyone else they're thinking worst possible when I'd like to fix the little issues first to see if that works because if someone pulls an engine a lot can go wrong and I don't think it's necessary.
I'm glad to hear you'd had such good luck it gives me some relief. I've heard that which is why when I snagged this for $6,600 I couldn't resist because it has some extras..a tow package. I know around here vehicles like this sell for around $8,000. I'm hoping to have this one still when I get my Masters degree. I like that it drives like a truck.
Which is nice to have. The 4 Wheel drive works nicely and in snow I don't slide around.
How do they do on ice?
#6362 of 6385 Re: Ford Explorer 2000 XLT [ladyscorned]
Mar 27, 2012 (8:46 am)
Honestly, I have a cabin in the mountains, and my Explorers have done about the best of any of my 4WD vehicles. I've had 2 Escalades, and both of them tended to stick me on the hills on ice, while the Explorers have pulled me up the same hills. I have found them to be very steady and dependable in any road conditions, even mud. I think you'll be happy.
Apr 27, 2012 (7:27 pm)
Knock on wood. This has been a trouble free SUV. Change oil ever 3-5k miles. Never had a true tune up. What service should be done? Plugs? Filters? It has new battery and tires and still get std miles of about 300+ miles per tank.
#6364 of 6385 1991 Ford Transmission manual
May 01, 2012 (4:30 pm)
Hello, I am new to this, and to my dimay, I have not heard very good things about the 1991 transmission, I have been basically given a Ford Explorer, manual, five speed, and it runs, but it sounds terrible when I try to put into gear, like it is grinding, what could this be?
#6365 of 6385 Re: 1991 Ford Transmission manual [prettybird]
May 02, 2012 (6:58 am)
There is an adjustment on the clutch linkage that might give you better clutch pedal travel. Probably the clutch has been replaced and the cabling has been maladjusted somewhere in the past. If the clutch point is at the top of the pedal(pedal all the way up), the clutch is worn out, but you would not get the grinding that you have described. By grinding it means the clutch is not disengaging completely and the gears are trying to turn before they are engaged-thus grinding against each other. The repair manual should indicate how to adjust this out. The cable itself could actually be the problem by serious stretching or even cutting through the cable housing thus making the cable have more length and not disengaging the clutch completely. If you are going to look at this yourself- wear goggles first-not after oily crap falls in you eyes.
Hope this helps!
#6366 of 6385 1999 Expl Eddie Bauer cranks, no start.
May 12, 2012 (1:13 pm)
My explorer cranks but will not start. The anti-theft light on the dash blinks very fast. It's been in the repair shop for 1 week now. They could not get it to repeat the no start. Finally they called today and said the anti-theft transceiver P/N F8SB15607AC IS THE PROBLEM. tHEY ALSO SAID THIS PART IS ON NATIONAL BACKORDER UNTIL JUNE 1ST. Does anyone know if there is another part number that will work? I can't find this part anywhere. Thank you.
May 26, 2012 (8:36 pm)
I don't understand, I have a 2003 Explorer, all of a sudden, I cannot turn to defrost mode, it stays stuck on the split window/floor mode, the windows quit working, I cannot get the truck into low 4wd, I think high works but I don't hear it engage, I just see the light on, and now when I drive, there is a loud "clicking" sound that is coming from the left rear wheel area, but it goes away if I take a sharp enough right turn, otherwise, the faster I go, the louder it gets, so loud inside that I have to crank the stereo to drown it out. Where do I start???? Please help!!!!
#6369 of 6385 swamped explorer
May 31, 2012 (8:23 pm)
I recently swamped my 2000 4.0L SHOC explorer. I have removed all the water, dried all the electrical components, and replaced the spark plug wires. But it still dose not want to start, and if it dose start it has no power to move when in gear. Anyone know what else might be wrong?