Last post on May 27, 2013 at 6:07 PM
You are in the Ford Explorer
What is this discussion about?
Ford Explorer, Mercury Mountaineer
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#6257 of 6386 Re: 1994 Explorer problem [converrl]
Jan 19, 2010 (2:18 pm)
My 94 explorer had the same problems shifting, if you could without turning of the ignition, and had it in to Ford service every 6 months for bleeding.I decided to try something simple and it worked! I removed the cap on the clutch reservoir, made sure the plastic boot was loose, placed the cap om loosely so air could bleed out, depressed the clutch and secured it to the floor with an ice scrape from clutch to seat frame and left it overnight. I also pumprd the clutch pedal during this time frame as fast as I could for about a minute. You could also tape the line, I did not. I tightened the cap the next day, removed the ice scraper and thought at first I had no clutch since it released at the top. Have driven about a year and no problems so far.
#6258 of 6386 Re: 1998 Explorer Several Guages Stopped Working While at the Mechanic [kmsandrbs]
Jan 19, 2010 (9:10 pm)
So, to follow up on my own post ...
I checked all the fuses, that was not the issue, so I decided to check behind the dash to see if it was a loose connection or something that i could possibly fix.
When I got in there, I saw that eight of the wires connected to the instrument cluster had been cut ... in two places. Now, for the life of me, I cannot figure out how those eight wires could be cut in two places (one of which was right at the back of the plug) exactly at the same time (as all the instruments were working before). I fixed the problem (instruments wrk now), but I'm following up with the Bureau of Automotive Repair. I took photos and videos of the damage.
#6259 of 6386 Re: 1998 Explorer Several Guages Stopped Working While at the Mechanic [kmsandrbs]
Jan 21, 2010 (8:06 pm)
I find that absolutely amazing. It certainly seems that it could not be simply a coincidence that the dash lights quit working when you took it in to have the air intake fixed, especially later finding the wires were cut behind the dash. It sounds fishy and suspicious. You did a good thing to document the damage. Hopefully you will get justice for what happened to you.
#6260 of 6386 headlights on 95 explorer
Jan 25, 2010 (11:20 am)
Yesterday I tried to turn my lights on. When i used the knob to turn them on only the parking lights came on. I checked the fuses and they are fine. What could be the problem?
#6261 of 6386 Re: headlights on 95 explorer [jan95explorer]
Jan 26, 2010 (9:28 pm)
1. Repair or replace faulty or burned out headlamp bulbs.
2, Repair or replace faulty headlight relay.
#6262 of 6386 Engine hard start sometimes
Feb 05, 2010 (10:07 am)
I have a 99 Explorer with the 5.0L engine, right at 100K. I bought this truck new and it has been a really good vehicle, I plan to hand it down to my teenage son this summer. I have an issue I've had for several years and it appears to be getting a little worse. The engine start just fine when cold, usually within 1 sec. It also starts just fine after warmed up if its started within about 10 min of when it has last been run. However, it I go to start it say between 10 to 45 min of when it was last run, it takes a bit of cranking to start say between 3 to 4 secs. It almost kind of reminds me of a "vapor lock" that I experience with my 2 stroke outboard. Any ideas of what this could be? Any simple things to try? Obviously I don't want to pay someone a bunch of cash to root around to try and figure this out.
#6263 of 6386 Re: Engine hard start sometimes [gasburner1]
Feb 06, 2010 (11:31 am)
My 2000 5.0L engine has always acted the same way, bought used in 2005. It now has 175,000 miles. It has never been a problem, it always starts. If you maintain regular scheduled maintenance, such as new spark plugs, new spark plug wires, ect, it should be ok. You could also check for any vacuum leaks or egr problems, if it idles smooth, it is probably fine. My battery died a few months ago, I replaced it with a new powerful battery, rated at 850 CCA. The original battery is rated at 650 CCA. If your charging system is working well and you maintain a powerful battery in your vehicle, you won't have a problem.
E.D. in Sunny Florida
#6264 of 6386 2000 Explorer Chain Tensioner Problems
Feb 24, 2010 (11:51 pm)
I have a 2000 Explorer XLT V6 SOHC 4wd which I purchased new in March of 2000, (St. Louis plant mfr.) I have very low mileage (22,100) and I have had no sign of a timing chain tensioner problem. However, after just recently reading this forum about this problem, I am worried that it will happen to me and there will be no warranty. I NEVER RECEIVED A NOTICE from Ford concerning this problem---ever. The only recall I received was for Firestone tires and the speed control problem, which were both resolved. My questions are: Do I have a recourse against Ford if I need to replace the tensioners? Are there any other 2000 Explorers out there that haven't had the tensioner problem with their SOHC engine? When can I expect a problem? Should I have the work done before symptoms show up? What are the risks of extensive engine damage if I wait for the symptoms?
#6265 of 6386 how to remove engine cover?
Mar 02, 2010 (12:55 pm)
Hi everyone, need help!
2002 Explorer 4.6L V8.
I'm trying to replace the EGR valve pressure sensor and took me long enough to locate it (it's sitting by the firewall, right in the center). I found it nearly impossible to get to it without removing the black engine cover. I only found 2 nuts to unscrew on the cover (located towards the front of the engine), and after I took the nuts out, I still couldn't remove the cover. There has to be something else holding the cover in place towards the rear on the cover but I couldn't locate it. I didn't want to yank the cover too hard fear that I might break something. Can someone please show me how to remove the engine cover properly? Thanks.
#6266 of 6386 Re: how to remove engine cover? [alman08]
Mar 02, 2010 (4:47 pm)
nevermind the engine cover... I know the setup now. 2 nuts in the front and 2 balls snap-on type in the rear. got the cover off, however, I can't get the old sensor out from the 2 tubes