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#6243 of 6400 2004 Ford Explorer- Road noise & high pitch sounds
Dec 09, 2009 (9:18 am)
Has anyone experience the road noise with the 2004 Ford Explorer XLT. When I drive I can hear the 2 front wheels contacting the road when the windows are up. It just started to happen recently with all these problems, my suv only has about 62K on it. When i'm cruising at 60mph I hear a high pitch noise too. It it accelerate above or decelerate below that then the noise went away. Any thought or suggestion would be greatly appreciated.
#6244 of 6400 Re: '97 will not start, no fuel [thebings]
Dec 11, 2009 (11:22 am)
My '05 XLT is doing the same thing. I haven't gotten a response, have you? Have you solved it? What was it? I need some answers; thanks.
#6245 of 6400 2000 Ford Explorer Cooling System
Dec 13, 2009 (2:30 pm)
I just replaced the radiator in my son's 2000 Explorer 4.0 OHC. The replacement went well untill we attempted to refill the coolant. I emptied a gallon of 50/50 coolant into the radiator and about a gallon of water then started the engine and turned the heater on full. The engine was running a little rough at first while I emptied another gallon of 50/50 and then attempted to fill the rest of the system with water. I let the engine run and the heater was blowing hot air. After a small teat drive it appeared that the new radiator was leaking so I shut it down thinking I would be removing it the next morning. This morning I moved the old radiator from the garage where we had set it after removing it and water leaked out. There was a noticable amount of oil in the water the came out of the radiator. After letting the car run for a short while and not finding any leaks I sent my son on another test drive. There was a small puddle where the car was sitting with oil and water. I checked the dip stick and there is no water in the oil. The car is running fine but the heater is intermitent. Also, there is white smoke coming from the exhaust and it smells like antifreeze. Do I have a blown head gasket or is this something else?
#6246 of 6400 1998 Explorer Several Guages Stopped Working While at the Mechanic
Dec 14, 2009 (7:53 pm)
We took our 98 Explorer XLT in to have the air intake problem fixed (needed it fixed for smog reasons).
Mechanic called and wanted us to road test the vehicle for a few hundred miles to make sure the check engine light did not come on.
However, when we picked it up, all of the guages and the lights on the right side of the console were not working (speedometer, tachometer, odometer, battery, and I think oil are on that side, turn signals) Two guages on left side, and lights on left side (the ones that come on at startup) are working. mechanic says not thier problem.
All were working before we took the car in.
So, two questions ...
1) What could be the probable causes of this? Likely just a fuse (have not had time to check these yet)?
2) given the answers to 1) ... is it possible that the mechanic, in testing for smog and repairing the air intake issue, did something to cause the problem?
Thanks for any thoughts.
#6247 of 6400 Re: '97 will not start, no fuel [melodys]
Dec 14, 2009 (8:00 pm)
"#6236 of 6245 '97 will not start, no fuel by thebings Oct 23, 2009 (12:33 pm) Save | Reply
My '97 5.0 v8 will not start, there is no fuel at the rail. I found the 20amp mini fuse for "fuel system, anti-theft system" blown. I replaced the fuse, still will not start, no fuel. I can not hear the pump run when I turn on the ignition. I checked for voltage at the inertia switch, if I unplug the switch I have voltage at the dark green/yellow wire from the relay. If I plug the switch back in, the voltage at the dg/y wire disappears. I put a jumper wire to the plug between the dg/y wire and the Pink/Black wire to the pump, but can not read voltage to either wire. The 20 amp fuse has not blown again. I am thinking it is the fuel pump but hate to remove the tank if it is not the pump. Any help or suggestions much appreciated.
"My '05 XLT is doing the same thing. I haven't gotten a response, have you? Have you solved it? What was it? I need some answers; thanks."
What is said does not make sense, especially the " If I plug the switch back in, the voltage at the dg/y wire disappears". I am doubtful of the troubshooting technique being used. If using a digital multimeter, it may be picking up stray or surface voltages. The best way to trace and test the fuel pump power circuit is using a common 12 Volt light bulb type tester. It has a pointed probe on one end and the other end has a wire with an alligator clip (everyone should have one of these in their car). Connect the alligator clip to grounded metal, and touch the pointed probe to a "hot" wire, and the bulb lights up. Use this tool to check for the presence of voltage coming into and leaving the inertia switch. If you have power leaving the inertia switch, it indicates that power is going to the pump. If this is the case, and the pump still does not run, you will have to lower the fuel tank to check connections to be sure power is going to the electric connector at the pump. If there IS power at the connector, next step is to PULL the pump from the fuel tank and CHECK the pump.
E.D. in Sunny Florida
#6248 of 6400 Re: 98 ford explorer help [98fordblueslol]
Dec 21, 2009 (7:14 pm)
what everyone is failing to realize about theses 2 codes is it is a lean code.which could also be a low fuel pressure.im sick of hearing about intake gaskets.please do yourselves a favor and do a simple fuel pressure test.
#6249 of 6400 2008 Explorer electrical and water problem
Dec 28, 2009 (2:00 pm)
Whenever it rains heavy, the front passenger door fills with water when the car is parked. You can hear the water sloshing around in the door until you start moving and then it appears to drain out through the drain holes. None of the other 3 doors have this problem. Shortly after this started, my interior lights would randomly come on while driving and then fade out.This occurs everytime I turn my headlights on and several times before it stops. The local dealership says they can not fix the problem unless they can duplicate it. Which they can not. Any one else have this problem? I m extremely frustrated with this>>
#6250 of 6400 Re: 2008 Explorer electrical and water problem [david200]
Dec 29, 2009 (6:52 pm)
1. Fix the drainage problem. The drain holes must be partially plugged and draining slow. I would check and unplug the drain holes.
2. Fix the Leak where water is entering the door. Check the seal of the door to the glass, repair or replace the seal.
#6251 of 6400 Re: 2000 Ford Explorer Cooling System [mike2464]
Dec 29, 2009 (7:42 pm)
Sorry to say that the symptoms you described do not sound like good news. Oil in the coolant is a bad sign, and the exhaust with white smoke and smell of antifreeze is even worse news. It certainly sounds like a leak between the combustion chamber and the cooling system, most likely a blown head gasket. There are ways to test for this, a cylinder compression test may show a low compression at the leaking cylinder, but only if the leak is significant. Look for signs of coolant on the spark plug or in the cylinder. A cooling system pressure tester can be used to see if the cooling system will hold pressure, a slow leakdown would indicate a problem. You can also test with a combustion gas tester, that indicates the presence of combustion gas in the radiator. Another way to test for the location of the leak is to pressurize each cylinder one at a time through the spark plug hole using an adapter and air hose - the engine crankshaft must be firmly held stationary with the cylinder being tested held at top dead center at the end of the compression stroke. Pressurize with over 100 pounds of air into the cylinder with the radiator cap off and watch for bubbles out the top of the radiator. Do this for all cylinders to find out which one is leaking into the cooling system. Confirmation of the combustion leak will mean the engine head (or heads) must come off, Check heads for cracks, warpage, leaks and replace head gasket with a new one. It is best to have a machine shop check the heads, they can mill the heads to be sure there is no warpage, check the valves and put on new valve seals. Use new gaskets and O-rings when putting everything back together. Torque fasteners in order to factory specifications. Flush the cooling system and install a new thermostat.
E.D. in Sunny Florida
#6252 of 6400 2002 Explorer Front End Collision Concern
Dec 29, 2009 (8:05 pm)
I was hit in my 2002 Ford Explorer 4x4 in the front, somewhat at an angled head on approach. The car that hit me was a Ford Taurus. It was low enough that it missed the radiator, etc. but the damage is from the front center bumper area and over to the drivers side front & lower. It hit low enough that I had concerns right away about my suspension and driving mechanisms. It was drivable afterwards and to the eye, only appeared to be cosmetic. However, since the accident, I immediately noticed it is loud when I drive. The best example I can give is as though there is no insulation to the interior of the vehicle or as if I had super agressive tires. However, neither is the case. The sound appeared to me to be coming from the same area where I took the impact. Also, when I would make a sharp/hard turn, such as a tight U-turn, it sounded like the wheel was rubbing on something. The bodyshop says a mechanic test drove it and by sound determined it was the rear axel bearings....and not accident related. I don't think this is the case, what front end damage could this be that no one has looked for? I don't think they even put it on a lift and inspected it.