Last post on Oct 26, 2013 at 4:56 AM
You are in the Ford Explorer
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Ford Explorer, Mercury Mountaineer
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Sep 23, 2009 (7:03 pm)
hi i have a 1997 ford explorer v8 5.0L awd and i know i need a new battery and alt cause its been tested and there toasted anyways i didnt hook up the jumper pack due to rushing and i tried starting it, and it almost started so i held it and keep trying then it started smoking so i stopped it smelled like burning wires or something and now it just clicks. my question is how do i know if i fried the starter or celinoid or the wires before i go and replace the starter since im so short on money please help if you know what to do thanks steve
#6220 of 6400 97 explorer problem please help
Sep 28, 2009 (1:24 pm)
Ok so I have many problem with this vehicle. First the back hatch is
Busted so it won't open or close. This presents a problem because it will not
Shut all the way leaving the door ajar and my interior lights on for half the night
Which obviously drains the battery. Second my security system is all messed up.
My four ways go off for no apparent reason which is s battery drain also, in order
To start the vehicle I need to turn the key like four times to disarm the system.
This is all killing my battery. My brake lights don't work but I still have turn signals
Among other things these are my most serious problems help please!
#6221 of 6400 How to replace rear hatch door on a 1997 eddie bauer
Sep 30, 2009 (5:24 pm)
If anyone have a diagram on how to replace rear hatch door on a 1997 eddie bauer and what tool is needed?
#6222 of 6400 2000 Ford Explorer not blowing any air for heat/ac? I can help.
Oct 01, 2009 (3:26 pm)
This maybe the resolution. Thought it might be the switch on the dash which controls the ac and heat and changed it out and that didnt solve it. So, then next thing I tried , I checked the blower motor on the passenger side firewall, underneath the hood and I pulled off the plug to the blower motor to see if it was corroaded and it was not. Then I used a tester to check to see if there was any power to the plug that plugs into the blower motor. There was power in all the positions for your ac and defrost etc. it had power and I turn it to off and it went off. At that time I knew that it wasnt the switch on the dash, and I plugged it back in the blower motor, becareful not to bend the prongs on the motor where the plug snaps in. SO I assumed then that the blower motor may be seized and I tapped on the blower motor and then everything worked. Solved the problem of not any blowing air through the vents. The blower motor may need to be replaced in the future because of corrosion inside. Can swap out the motor at a junk yard.
#6223 of 6400 2000 Ford Explorer - Horrible Ticking - Help!
Oct 13, 2009 (9:33 am)
I have a 2000 Ford Explorer with a 4.0 Liter V6. The engine has approximately 145,000 miles on it. I have had no major problems with the engine until now. I was entering the interstate one day and the engine had no power. The check gauges light came on immediately. I was able to limp it home at about 10 miles an hour. The sound from the engine sounded loud and metallic. When I start the Explorer now it runs and shift like a dream. Even sounds perfect. After about 10 minutes of warming up I start to hear a fast ticking sound. Its quiet and power is normal. Then the check gauge light comes on and the ticking grows in sound and speed. The sound comes directly from the top on the engine. There is plenty of oil but it is very black. When I hit the gas the ticking sound comes on stronger and for a second or two the ticking sounds like it winds down when I release the gas. Can anyone give me an idea of whats going on? I would like to keep this vehicle but I need a place to start on fixing it. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
#6224 of 6400 Re: 2000 Ford Explorer - Horrible Ticking - Help! [mitch2225]
Oct 15, 2009 (7:17 am)
First things first: Go get the engine light read at Autozone of local Auto parts store, They do that for free. Write down the code number(s) They are usually referred to DTC's (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) stored in the computer memory, They will give you a CLUE as what to look for. Sounds like your problem could be in the valve train, Hydrualic Tappets, Rocker Arms, Push Rods, camshaft or timing chain.
Your Oil is too Black, How long did it take to get so black? Change oil and filter right away and monitor it closely. You might need a heavier weight oil or oil additive. Change it every 3000 miles, or sooner if it gets very black. To investigate the noise, you would need to remove the valve covers and check everything you see in there. Rock the engine crankshaft back and forth a little to check to see how much slack there is in the timing chain, Run the engine at idle with the valve covers off and observe to be sure that there is good oil flow to all moving parts, and listen for where the noise is coming from.
E.D. in Sunny Florida
#6225 of 6400 2002 ford explorer
Oct 15, 2009 (2:03 pm)
Evening all, would anyone recommend a shop for the usual wheel bearings and differential repairs in the Brampton, Ontario area.
#6226 of 6400 2004 mercury mountaineer v6 engine rattle
Oct 15, 2009 (5:56 pm)
my 04 mountaineer developed a rattling sound in front of engine . sound is intermittent mainly idling at low rpm noise doesnt stop with serpentine belt removed local mechanic not sure . any help greatly appreciated thanx
Oct 17, 2009 (10:43 am)
I can not get my 99 eddie bauer to switch over to heat. It contiues to blow cold air, I replaced the control unit, now it does nothing. I was told it needs to reset itself????? anyone have any suggestions, thanks
#6228 of 6400 2002 Explorer venting problem
Oct 20, 2009 (7:48 am)
I'm having a problem with my defrost vent. I have no problem with having hot or cold air. When I set my vent control to defrost I have no air flow. I have good air flow for the middle vents and the floor vents. I pulled the glove box and watched the arm move when I switch from middle to floor and back, but when I switch to defrost it doesn't move. Any ideas?