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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

6241 messages,  Last post on Nov 24, 2009 at 9:06 AM

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What is this discussion about? Ford Explorer, Mercury Mountaineer

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#6213 of 6241 Re: Check engine light remains on [witchywoman4u] by electricdesign Sep 23, 2009 (4:30 pm)
Replying to: witchywoman4u (Sep 07, 2009 3:25 pm) The check engine light comes back on because the problem is not fixed. To stop the light from coming back on, have the mechanic fix the problem.
#6214 of 6241 Re: Engine lurches while at an idle [witchywoman4u] by electricdesign Sep 23, 2009 (4:32 pm)
Replying to: witchywoman4u (Sep 07, 2009 3:28 pm) This is most likely the result of the engine running rough, probably due to the problem with the fuel injector and the check engine light.
#6215 of 6241 Re: A/C warm at highway speeds, cold at slower speeds [dobbsa] by electricdesign Sep 23, 2009 (5:23 pm)
Replying to: dobbsa (Sep 22, 2009 1:22 pm) If the AC loses control system vacuum, in AC mode the interior discharge air will be diverted from the dash vents, and the cold air will blow out of the defrost discharge vents and/or the heater discharge vents. Check to be sure that the interior discharge air is blowing out at some point inside the vehicle. Look and observe if the air blowing out in the wrong place is what is happening in your case. If so, the vacuum could be lost at a connection under the hood or under the dash. Sometimes this vacuum leak can be heard as a hissing sound. I would listen for it while you are driving. If the above conditions do not apply to your situation. then you may be losing cooling for some other reasons, which could be many. First check to be sure the AC system has the correct refrigerant charge, and check that the refrigerant pressures are correct under all operating conditions. Also check to be sure the condenser coil in front of the radiator is clean and unrestricted, and that the Condenser fan works correctly, pulling plenty of air through the condenser coil. If the refrigerant pressures are found tro be incorrect, they will reveal where the problem lies, as diagnosed by a knowledgable mechanic.
#6216 of 6241 Re: Replacing parking/emergency brake cable [witchywoman4u] by electricdesign Sep 23, 2009 (5:30 pm)
Replying to: witchywoman4u (Sep 07, 2009 3:17 pm) I would grease the cable real good at the place it is rusted. That would probably fix it for a while. If this works, it might to be grease once in a while.
#6217 of 6241 Re: Replacing instrument panel bulbs (lamps). [witchywoman4u] by electricdesign Sep 23, 2009 (5:36 pm)
Replying to: witchywoman4u (Sep 07, 2009 3:22 pm) There is no easy way to replace the instrument cluster incandescent light bulbs. The entire instrument cluster must be removed, not an easy job, requires care and patience. Once the instrument cluster is removed, I would recommend that you replace ALL the incandescent light bulbs, because it is too much trouble to remove the instrument cluster every time an incandescent bulb burns out. They should have made those lights out of LED's.
#6219 of 6241 starter was smoking by honda110885 Sep 23, 2009 (7:03 pm)
hi i have a 1997 ford explorer v8 5.0L awd and i know i need a new battery and alt cause its been tested and there toasted anyways i didnt hook up the jumper pack due to rushing and i tried starting it, and it almost started so i held it and keep trying then it started smoking so i stopped it smelled like burning wires or something and now it just clicks. my question is how do i know if i fried the starter or celinoid or the wires before i go and replace the starter since im so short on money please help if you know what to do thanks steve
#6220 of 6241 97 explorer problem please help by jsnyde45 Sep 28, 2009 (1:24 pm)
Ok so I have many problem with this vehicle. First the back hatch is Busted so it won't open or close. This presents a problem because it will not Shut all the way leaving the door ajar and my interior lights on for half the night Which obviously drains the battery. Second my security system is all messed up. My four ways go off for no apparent reason which is s battery drain also, in order To start the vehicle I need to turn the key like four times to disarm the system. This is all killing my battery. My brake lights don't work but I still have turn signals Among other things these are my most serious problems help please!
#6221 of 6241 How to replace rear hatch door on a 1997 eddie bauer by jazzyman26 Sep 30, 2009 (5:24 pm)
If anyone have a diagram on how to replace rear hatch door on a 1997 eddie bauer and what tool is needed?
#6222 of 6241 2000 Ford Explorer not blowing any air for heat/ac? I can help. by askdon Oct 01, 2009 (3:26 pm)
This maybe the resolution. Thought it might be the switch on the dash which controls the ac and heat and changed it out and that didnt solve it. So, then next thing I tried , I checked the blower motor on the passenger side firewall, underneath the hood and I pulled off the plug to the blower motor to see if it was corroaded and it was not. Then I used a tester to check to see if there was any power to the plug that plugs into the blower motor. There was power in all the positions for your ac and defrost etc. it had power and I turn it to off and it went off. At that time I knew that it wasnt the switch on the dash, and I plugged it back in the blower motor, becareful not to bend the prongs on the motor where the plug snaps in. SO I assumed then that the blower motor may be seized and I tapped on the blower motor and then everything worked. Solved the problem of not any blowing air through the vents. The blower motor may need to be replaced in the future because of corrosion inside. Can swap out the motor at a junk yard.

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