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SUVs Ford Explorer Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair
6241 messages, Last post on Nov 24, 2009 at 9:06 AM
You are in the Ford Explorer Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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For 9.5 years I have been a regular participant in this discussion group. Next week we will be picking up our new Prius and our 99 Explorer will be moving to another family. Thanks for the all the input that made me a better shade tree mechanic for my Explorer. After an initial rocky start the Explorer became a very reliable, family workhorse. It is in great shape so I have no problem selling it to a neighbor. It certainly does not qualify for the new Clunker Program. Take care, Bioman |
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trying to pull the rear shock on a rusted 96 explorer. Used a bit pf PB blaster and went at the bottom bolt. The nut sheered off like the bolt was made of butter. Now the bolt turns in place but I cant get it out. Have tried a small jack between the frame and axel to relieve the pressure, Pounding the bolt thru with a smaller bolt and hammer, I cant even get a screwdriver blade under the bolt head to pry it out. what shall I try next?? Baudiom |
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Replying to: ford06cvpi (Mar 26, 2009 4:27 pm) |
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| I am interested in learning how to take out and replace the passenger side rear window. Please help! | |
| We just got an '03 explorer into our shop to scan for ABS codes. It gave us a Speed Sensor code (C1235) and an undocumented code (16945). The undocumented code doesnt show up on any of our databases and I was wondering if anyone else has seen this code before and if they have, what is it for | |
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Hi first post, I have a 94 Expl. with a 4ltr. V6 and just when I go up hill and acceleration slightly my engine light comes on but goes off after I top the hill. If my air cond. is on it makes it worse, stays on longer. On quick accel. it does not do it. I would appreciate some help, thanks 41Man |
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| I hope someone can help me out. I am new and have never posted before. To start out I recently took off and cleaned the idle air control valve, because my car is making a horrible groaning/gurgling loud sound, and also intermidently idling ruff. I thought it helped at first but now the sound is worse than ever. I am going to order a new iac, and put it on for this problem. In the process of trying to get this fixed my car has started making a clanking/tapping sound in what seems to be the bottom area of the engine. Only when the AC is running. Not when just the blower is on, but the actual AC has to be on for the noise to start. It is constant, and loud. I got under the car and it sounds loudest at the bottom/back area of the engine. When I turn off the AC it stops. I still hear that groaning sound although it is much worse when the ac is on also. Could it be a pulley, or belt? Any ideas are greatly appreciated. | |
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Replying to: electricdesign (Sep 28, 2006 8:46 am) http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/dealer/details.aspx?R=7563687&__sid=1230490A- 5672&__Qpb=true&Cr=0&__Ns=pCar_RankSort_Int32|1||pCar_Price_Decimal|1||pCar_Make- _String|0||pCar_Model_String|0&keywords=&__N=1216%201246%201247%201252%201282%20- 4294966463%204294966180%20391%20410%20901&PriceFrom=391&PriceTo=410&seot=1&tsrc=- allcarhome&__Nne=15&trecs=1&silo=1011 |
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Does anyone know how to disconnect the left rear emergency/parking brake cable from the front cable on a 2001 Ford Sport Trac? My rear cable coating got worn through so it is rusted and not working properly (won't release the parking brake) hence the replacement but I cannot figure out how to disconnect the two cables.
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