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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

6241 messages,  Last post on Nov 24, 2009 at 9:06 AM

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#6189 of 6241 Re: pcv replacement [pfran6078] by electricdesign Jun 21, 2009 (6:31 pm)
Replying to: pfran6078 (Jun 17, 2009 11:43 am) See message #6171 for location of the pcv. You can't see it, but you can feel for it, and pull it out, and replace it by feel.
#6190 of 6241 atwitsend by wizard43 Jun 22, 2009 (5:05 am)
pvc valve is good, got a po320 code from scanner, so im thinking maybe the coil pack is bad since it is distributerless Replies to this message: electricdesign (Jun 22, 2009 10:54 am)
#6191 of 6241 Re: atwitsend [wizard43] by electricdesign Jun 22, 2009 (10:54 am)
Replying to: wizard43 (Jun 22, 2009 5:05 am) You never said what engine you have, is it a V6 or V8? The problem could be caused by several different things.   From a website: A P0302 code means that the the car's computer has detected that one of the engine's cylinders is not firing properly. In this case it's cylinder #2. A code P0302 may mean that one or more of the following has happened: Faulty spark plug or wire Faulty coil (pack) Faulty oxygen sensor(s) Faulty fuel injector Burned exhaust valve Faulty catalytic converter(s) Running out of fuel Poor compression Defective computer Possible SolutionsIf there are no symptoms, the simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back. If there are symptoms such as the engine is stumbling or hesitating, check all wiring and connectors that lead to the cylinders (i.e. spark plugs). Depending on how long the ignition components have been in the car, it may be a good idea to replace them as part of your regular maintenance schedule. I would suggest spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor (if applicable). Otherwise, check the coils (a.k.a. coil packs). In some cases, the catalytic converter has gone bad. If you smell rotten eggs in the exhaust, your cat converter needs to be replaced. I've also heard in other cases the problems were faulty fuel injectors.   My Comments: I would pull all the plugs and take a good look at them, note the color of the innner ceramic insulator and gap. The ceramic insulator should be a light tan color to light brown. Dark colors means that cylinder is not firing well, which could be due to the spark plug wire bad, coil bad, injector bad, clogged or dirty, oil flouling, ect. If you find one or more dark plugs, investigate everything associated with that cylinder, and gap all plugs, replace plugs if needed, replace wires if needed. Also check for air leaks, as an air leak can cause the engine to run rough and die. Check the Air bypass valve located near the throttle body, it has two wires going to it, sometimes they get clogged and stick and let too much air in at idle. Cleaning them will fix them most of the time, otherwise replace. Will your engine run OK if you rev it up? If so, it may be an Idle problem realated to an air leak, egr valve, Air bypass valve, etc. It the engine runs rough at idle and rough at speeds over 1500 rpm, it could be an ignition or injector problem. E.D.
#6192 of 6241 Re: Piece of crap Explorer [bucanole] by explorerx4 Jun 22, 2009 (4:32 pm)
Replying to: bucanole (Apr 08, 2009 5:44 am) it '02 through '05. rear liftgate was redesigned for '06.
#6193 of 6241 01 Explorer dying by bludragon817 Jun 29, 2009 (5:58 pm)
Hi all! New here. Got a couple things. 2001 Ford Explorer SOHC 4.0 V-6. 55K. Owned 1 1/2 yrs. One minor problem that we can live with (#1), and one that we can't (#2). We love the vehicle...we just don't want to die in it....or kill someone else because of it....   1) Lift gate won't open & door ajar light on all of the time. Checked the latches (when I still could open it), one is sticking a little but doesn't seem to be causing the problem. Have oiled it and still doesn't help. But I seen something earlier in the forum saying something about a crack under the window?!? Where exactly? What can be done about this?   2) Stalling. Highway or city. Short trip (15 minutes) or long trip (an hour). Anytime. Last summer it started. Live in Kansas...HOT summers. 90-100 degrees F. Took to 2 shops (one a Ford dealer). No coding out of the check engine light. No one could recreate it, therefore not tell us what is wrong. Got a whole tune-up and replacement of fuel filter, fuel lines & pump checked. All ok. Still did it. Googled stalling problems for Explorers and heard of the IAC valve. Replaced that about end of August 08. This spring it started again. Replaced the IAC again. A few people mentioned vapor lock. So we put "Heet" (water remover for the gas tank) in the tank. Still did it after that. And other sites are saying that it is very rare in a fuel injected car nowadays to get vapor lock...An earlier post said "intake gaskets". Is that a real possibility? How easy to fix yourself? Or is it really a job for ASE Mechanics?   Thank you!
#6194 of 6241 Check Engine On Intermittently / Passed Emmisions / O2 sensor by dodgekbad Jun 30, 2009 (8:28 am)
I have a Check Engine light that comes on and off for months now on my '98 Explorer (V6 SOHC w/ 127k miles).   It's been off for I guess the past 50 miles. On Saturday I went to get an inspection which includes emmissions and passed. Sure enough it came right back on again the next day.   Along the way, I went to Autozone a couple of times while the light was actually ON, and it read O2 sensor downstream.   I don't know what to make of all this. It passed the emmissions test so could it be the Autozone scan thing is baloney? Replies to this message: electricdesign (Jul 12, 2009 4:04 pm)
#6195 of 6241 transmission issue? also, oversteer by rphelan Jul 10, 2009 (8:09 am)
2003 Explorer bigger V6, 86k miles.   for a few months now, we've noticed that there's a rattling noise coming from the engine area when we are stopped and in drive. The noise stops when we shift to neutral or park... but resumes when we move the gear back to drive...   also, something that just developed is severe oversteer (I guess that's the appropriate word). At speeds above 45mph, if we just move the steering wheel a little left or right, it feels like the truck will go out of control.   it's at the dealer right now ( we have 100k warranty).. but they're saying they're not hearing the rattling noise - i'll have to make sure they do b/c if it's the tranny, they need to replace it. Replies to this message: electricdesign (Jul 12, 2009 4:18 pm)
#6196 of 6241 Re: Check Engine On Intermittently / Passed Emmisions / O2 sensor [dodgekbad] by electricdesign Jul 12, 2009 (4:04 pm)
Replying to: dodgekbad (Jun 30, 2009 8:28 am) The autozone machine simply reads what your computer says. Your computer is the baloney.
#6197 of 6241 Re: transmission issue? also, oversteer [rphelan] by electricdesign Jul 12, 2009 (4:18 pm)
Replying to: rphelan (Jul 10, 2009 8:09 am) #1 - I assume the rattle goes away or lessens as you drive down the road. Does it sound like tin rattling? If so, there is a loose part that is vibrating, most likely a loose heat shield somewhere on the exhaust system. Loose heat shields on the cat converters are common. You can get them spot welded back on at any muffler shop, or you can tightly tie a stiff wire around the part to keep it from rattling (coat hanger wire is good for this, but the welding is a much better and permanent repair).   #2 - The steering problem sounds dangerous, any front end shop or alignment shop should be able to figure out what the problem is. It could be ball joints, bushings or steering components. You did not mention if it is 2 wheel drive or 4 wheel drive.
#6198 of 6241 o/d light blinking by dgivhan Jul 15, 2009 (8:39 am)
My ford explorer runs great however the o/d light keeps blinking off and on....it blinks o/d off    ..

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