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#6119 of 6385 Coolant Leak on 2000 Ford Explorer Sport V6
Sep 16, 2008 (5:23 am)
I have a coolant leak and it looks like it is coming out of the oil pan - Is that possible ? Somebody hinted to me that Ford may recirculate the coolant near the oil to help cool the engine. The hoses are all fine and the top of the engine is dry.
Also - If the oil pan can be removed easily or does the transfer case need to be removed as well ?
#6120 of 6385 Re: Coolant Leak on 2000 Ford Explorer Sport V6 [jschmidt6]
Sep 16, 2008 (8:22 am)
Hi there,If you had coolant coming out of the oil pan then you would have a head gasket gone,But as you are driving the ford then 1 question comes to mind?have you been driving the ford with the aircon on max as some times ice will form on the pipe work and then melt and leave a pool on the floor,If it is not this then somewhere you have a hose or possibly a steel pipe that has a hole,Only way to find that would be to get the Ford onto a lift and really look for it,sorry i cant be of more help,Regards Gerry
#6121 of 6385 Re: Transmission [gasburner1]
Sep 16, 2008 (10:57 am)
If it hasn't been serviced with a power flush in the last 10,000 miles, I would have it done. IF that doesn't fix the problem, your strategy may be good. There is probably some wear going on, but it doesn't mean you're toast yet. It may run a long time like this if you are careful with it.
Sep 18, 2008 (8:34 am)
Easy solution for tire rims leaks:
I have been doing the following proceedure to all my vehicles, all brands with all type tires for many years. I have never had a problem with slow leaks/rim leaks again.
You need to do this with an air compressor and tire filling hose or near an air pump. It is best to roll the vehicle so that the tire valve stem is located at about the 9 o'clock or 3 o'clock position. This will allow you good working room for the proceedure.
One tire at a time, SLOWLY & CAREFULLY remove the tire valve stem core with a valve stem core removal tool (cheap). HOLD ONTO the valve core very carefully so that it doesn't blow away, keep it in your hand, and let all the air come out of the tire. Then take a Large can of WD-40 spray oil or similar substance with the red plastic "straw" on it, stick the straw down about 2 inches down into the valve stem, HOLD the "straw" tightly so it doesn't fall down into the inside of the tire, and holding the WD-40 can upright, spray oil into the inside of the tire for about 20 to 30 seconds. Then remove the "straw" and reinsert the valve core firmly, and refill the tire with air to the correct tire pressure. Do this to all tires, then take it for a short drive to spread the film of oil around inside the tires and rims. This has worked perfect for me for at least 15 years, has had NO detrimental effect on the tires or rims, and the tire balance remains the same and the tires ride smooth. When new tires are put on, the "fresh" rubber usually seals very good, but as time goes by the rubber starts to harden and the rim can start to rust under the rubber and cause seepage. The oil will prevent the rust and form a perfect seal. I would usually do this when the tires are about halfway through their life and/or when I have to add air to the tires between oil changes (7,500 mile intervals). The tire pressure should drop no more that 4 pounds during this 7,500 mile interval, from 32 psi down to 28 psi. If it drops more than that, I add the spray oil to the tires, end of problem.
Hope this helps.
Sep 22, 2008 (8:50 am)
was leaving work engine started and wan fine and performed well. about 15 miles later at a red light went to accelerate and had little performance. engine and truck immediatly became very shaky and hesitant sometimes engine dies. took to autozone ran codes and came out with misfire in cylinder # 2 and # 3. also fuel pressure low on bank 1 and 2. catylist defishency. replaced all spark plugs and wires everything gapped at .55 ive ruled out the coil pack because coil is the spark waste system and 2 and 3 dont run together. my next move was to have the fuel injectors cleaned and fuel filter replaced. any additional advice would be apreciated truck is a 1996 with 4.0 pushrod engine. personally im suspecting dirty fuel because i live in houston and ike just came through so maybe picked up some bad gas getting some trash in the injectors?
#6124 of 6385 Re: any advice [joshual1887]
Sep 22, 2008 (3:34 pm)
Don't rule out the solenoid pack in the transmission. You can read my plea for help, post 6102. I also live in Houston, but it wasn't bad gas. In my case the car is throwing about 15 codes. I was originally told the transmission codes were the result of whatever else was wrong. The problem has now been identified as the shift solenoid (stuck in 3rd gear), but there are 4 solenoids in the transmission, and they all must be changed. The transmission problem is what is causing all the other codes. I hate that car.
#6125 of 6385 Re: any advice [mshill]
Oct 07, 2008 (7:59 am)
turns out the wires to the coil pack were frayed and were shorting out thus throwing the codes. fuel injectors were fine but had them cleaned anyways. new fuel filter and went to a junkyard and gotta coil pack for $45 and included with it was an extra sensor pkug wires and clips with heat sheilds and the main bracket( didnt need any of it but what the hell) the only code its running now is an o2 sensor. also bought an obdII off ebay for $50. milade is back up to 17.7 and i feel for u with the transmission. i am on my 3rd. if u wanna rebuilt one for a reasonable price call greenleaf. they can find u one for about 800 and that comes with a 6 month warrenty. i can also recomend a good trans mechanic. he will install it for 250 and if it doesnt work he will either fix the trans or have another put in from greenleaf free of charge. i recomend him because if it has electrical problems (soloniods) he will get it working. my new one had problems in #2 soloniod it was extremely sluggish . im on month 6 without a compliant
#6126 of 6385 Re: Gear shift lever broken-Ford Expl 2002 -please help ! [paul7281]
Oct 08, 2008 (8:52 am)
My shift broke off too. When you installed your original steering wheel on the 5L2Z-3C529-A, did it fit correctly? Was there enough length on the splined shaft to mount the steering wheel correctly?
I received a used steering column from the junk yard. Everything looked the same as the original except the shaft only protruded out 1/4" while my original column's shaft protruded 3/4". There was not enough lenght on the shaft to mount the steering wheel.
#6127 of 6385 Re: Gear shift lever broken-Ford Expl 2002 -please help ! [prubbo]
Oct 16, 2008 (3:03 pm)
Hi prubbo, paul7281 here.
My original steering column-part number was 4L2Z-3C529-DA, I replaced it with this part 5L2Z-3C529-A, and it was new from Ford out of the box. I don't know how much shaft protruded out of the column, but my original steering wheel did fit correctly. prubbo, you did not pull the steering column your self?? Do you know if it's out of a 2002-2004 Ford Explorer or Ford Mountaineer?? Did you see this part number 5L2Z-3C529-A, on the steering column or just on the junk yard invoice?? There is something suspect about the steering column you received. If you have a 2002 Ford Explorer this 5L2Z-3C529-A, steering column and your original steering wheel should fit! Go to your local ford parts dealer with the steering column and steering wheel and ask ford's part dealer why it will not fit? paul...