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SUVs Ford Explorer Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair
6241 messages, Last post on Nov 24, 2009 at 9:06 AM
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Replying to: holland4 (Aug 30, 2008 4:07 pm) |
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few months ago i had a tire that lost air, i pumped nit up was good for a couple of days and lost air again. brought it to where i purchased the tires, they found nothing wrong, replaced the stem and all was well until now, about 7 months later. they tell me the rim is rusting form the inside out. its a 2002 with the optional chrome wheels. they said i would need to find someone who can recoat the inside of the wheel. ive never needed to do something like this. any help would be appreciated.
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Replying to: ajmtbm (Sep 14, 2008 2:52 pm) |
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I have a 99 with the 5.0 L engine, 89K miles. Trans has been serviced and problem free. The last 10K I've noticed a slight "slip" when in OD and accelerating between ~ 40 to 55 mph, just below what is required to downshift. Anyone have this problem or ideas on cause? I'm thinking I'll just keep it out of OD unless I'm on the highway. Is this a sign of a major problem? I bought this truck new, and overall the truck has been very reliable, but I'm wondering if it is time to sell it.
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I have a coolant leak and it looks like it is coming out of the oil pan - Is that possible ? Somebody hinted to me that Ford may recirculate the coolant near the oil to help cool the engine. The hoses are all fine and the top of the engine is dry. Also - If the oil pan can be removed easily or does the transfer case need to be removed as well ?
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Replying to: jschmidt6 (Sep 16, 2008 4:23 am) |
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Replying to: gasburner1 (Sep 15, 2008 9:19 am) |
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Replying to: ajmtbm (Sep 14, 2008 2:52 pm) I have been doing the following proceedure to all my vehicles, all brands with all type tires for many years. I have never had a problem with slow leaks/rim leaks again. You need to do this with an air compressor and tire filling hose or near an air pump. It is best to roll the vehicle so that the tire valve stem is located at about the 9 o'clock or 3 o'clock position. This will allow you good working room for the proceedure. One tire at a time, SLOWLY & CAREFULLY remove the tire valve stem core with a valve stem core removal tool (cheap). HOLD ONTO the valve core very carefully so that it doesn't blow away, keep it in your hand, and let all the air come out of the tire. Then take a Large can of WD-40 spray oil or similar substance with the red plastic "straw" on it, stick the straw down about 2 inches down into the valve stem, HOLD the "straw" tightly so it doesn't fall down into the inside of the tire, and holding the WD-40 can upright, spray oil into the inside of the tire for about 20 to 30 seconds. Then remove the "straw" and reinsert the valve core firmly, and refill the tire with air to the correct tire pressure. Do this to all tires, then take it for a short drive to spread the film of oil around inside the tires and rims. This has worked perfect for me for at least 15 years, has had NO detrimental effect on the tires or rims, and the tire balance remains the same and the tires ride smooth. When new tires are put on, the "fresh" rubber usually seals very good, but as time goes by the rubber starts to harden and the rim can start to rust under the rubber and cause seepage. The oil will prevent the rust and form a perfect seal. I would usually do this when the tires are about halfway through their life and/or when I have to add air to the tires between oil changes (7,500 mile intervals). The tire pressure should drop no more that 4 pounds during this 7,500 mile interval, from 32 psi down to 28 psi. If it drops more than that, I add the spray oil to the tires, end of problem. Hope this helps. E.D. ISF |
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was leaving work engine started and wan fine and performed well. about 15 miles later at a red light went to accelerate and had little performance. engine and truck immediatly became very shaky and hesitant sometimes engine dies. took to autozone ran codes and came out with misfire in cylinder # 2 and # 3. also fuel pressure low on bank 1 and 2. catylist defishency. replaced all spark plugs and wires everything gapped at .55 ive ruled out the coil pack because coil is the spark waste system and 2 and 3 dont run together. my next move was to have the fuel injectors cleaned and fuel filter replaced. any additional advice would be apreciated truck is a 1996 with 4.0 pushrod engine. personally im suspecting dirty fuel because i live in houston and ike just came through so maybe picked up some bad gas getting some trash in the injectors?
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Replying to: joshual1887 (Sep 22, 2008 7:50 am)
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