Last post on Oct 26, 2013 at 4:56 AM
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#5939 of 6400 Ford Explorer XLT 2008 V8 Engine Noise
Nov 16, 2007 (2:08 pm)
Have just under 400 miles on my 2008 Explorer with the V8. When the car is in park and idling it makes a "popping" noise roughly every 18 seconds. It is audible inside the car with all the windows closed and very audible when the hood is open. Is this just some pump or something that wakes up every 18 seconds no matter what or does this sound like an issue with the engine?
#5940 of 6400 Re: Battery And Lights [jondomke]
Nov 16, 2007 (9:08 pm)
OK, here is the general procedure for the parasitic current draw test, this will apply to any car that uses a 12 volt lead acid battery system.
You need to find what is draining your battery by checking "PARASITIC CURRENT DRAW" from your battery. Your car has ELECTRONIC MODULES that draw current when they are first connected. After they "settle down", usually in about 2 to 5 minutes, the parasitic current drain on you battery should be down to about 25 ma (milliamps) (.025 Amp). Do the following test procedure, and if you find your draw is too high, pull fuses one at a time to see if you can isolate the source of the excessive current draw. If your Parasitic Current Draw is still high after pulling all fuses, try disconnecting the Alternator, and other electrical equipment until the source of the excessive current draw is found.
PARASITIC CURRENT DRAW TEST:
Start with a fully charged Battery. Turn everything in the car OFF, close the door, remove the light bulb from under the hood, glove compartment, trunk, etc, so that nothing you know of is on. Remove the negative cable. Place a 5 amp fuse & a 1 ohm/10watt resistor in series with the negative cable, then wait a few minutes to allow the modules to settle down, then proceed. Connect a Digital Volt/Ohm Meter across the resistor and do a simple voltage drop test. Results = for example, a .022v draw = a 22mA draw. When you have minimal computers/radios/etc a maximum of 25mA is optimal. If you have multiple computers/cell phones/alarms/etc expect a higher number to be normal, though the cell phones/alarms should be OFF for this test. Over 30ma should be investigated and over 50ma should be corrected. Check manufacturers specs to be sure of what it should be for your particular vehicle.
For your headlight problem, you will need a wiring diagram to figure that out.
About the distilled water, yes, you should always add only distilled water to the battery. This also applies to the radiator, if you premix the antifreeze with water, use only distilled water. I always keep at least 6 gallons of distilled water in my garage.
E.D. In Sunny Florida">
#5941 of 6400 Re: Ford Explorer XLT 2008 V8 Engine Noise [njexplorerguy]
Nov 16, 2007 (9:17 pm)
I am guessing that it is most likely the Air Conditioning clutch making the sound. This sound may be normal, as sometimes they can be heard in the car. Most people don't notice it because they have the radio on. Open the hood and see if you can tell where the sound is coming from. Your car is way too new to be asking here, take it to the dealer and have it checked, it just may need to be tightened down to quiet it down. They are not really adjustable, but it may be loose.
#5942 of 6400 98 Ford Explorer Sport Emergency Brake
Nov 26, 2007 (4:37 pm)
I heard a noise coming from left rear wheel nothing major just some squeaking. I brought it in to have looked at, and was told I needed new emergency brakes pads plus rotor... I just had new brakes with rotors done 7k miles ago.
Also the Price they gave was close to 600....
Can anyone clear this up for a non mechanic?
#5943 of 6400 Re: 98 Ford Explorer Sport Emergency Brake [kanji]
Nov 27, 2007 (7:40 pm)
I would take it back to whoever did the brake work 7K ago, and have them make it right. They apparantly did something wrong on the left side. Did you have the right side looked at also, and how did it look?
It sounds like it may be a case of faulty workmanship. The rear parking brakes are usually seldom used and really don't usually incure any wear, unless someone drives around with his parking brake applied, or if something is causing them to stick or not release properly. Take it back to the first guy and have him explain why the new brakes that HE put on 7K ago are tore up, and ask him to make it right.
#5944 of 6400 Re: Ford Explorer Rattling Vibration. [explorator]
Dec 13, 2007 (4:50 am)
What was the wrong? I have a 1998 AWD Eddie Bauer Explorer. I get the vibration after I coast then hit the accerlator. It feels like I running over rubbling strips briefly. It's tough to recreate it on purpose, but i narrowed it down to driving over 45 and the severe vibration occurs over 60. I havent taken it to the dealer for repair yet.
#5946 of 6400 Re: Ford Explorer Rattling Vibration. [squid2007]
Dec 13, 2007 (8:49 am)
How many miles on it now? What engine and what transmission? Do you keep up on all scheduled maintenance? When is the last time that you have the transmission fluid flushed and changed?
It sounds like you may have a hydraulic clutch chatter when changing gears, try to see if you can tell when it does it. It may be the 4th gear clutch or the Torque Converter Lock Up Clutch. If it is not too bad, flushing and changing the transmission fluid will make probably it go away. You need to be sure you do the transmision flushes and changes every 30,000 by the book. 30K, 60K, 90K, 120K, 150K, 180K, 210K, etc.
I change my trans fluid every 30k, and about 10K before I'm due for the next flush, I sometimes notice a slight clutch chatter when my torque converter lock up clutch engages. After I do the flush, it is always smooth and quite again. I've got a 2000 XLT 5.0L V8 Auto 148K miles.
E.D. in Sunny Florida
#5947 of 6400 Re: Ford Explorer Rattling Vibration. [electricdesign]
Dec 13, 2007 (9:06 am)
I have 130K. It is the V8 Auto w/overdrive. Yes, I alway take it to the Ford dealer for schedule maintenace. I think they flushed/changed the transmission fluid at 100K.
#5948 of 6400 Lower tranny line won't connect
Dec 13, 2007 (5:16 pm)
I have a 92 Explorer XLT in which I just mostly replaced the radiator today. I say mostly because the lower transmission cooler line threads won't bite in the connector like they're supposed to. I can't get both hands into the space, and I can't get at it from any other angle. Has anyone else had this problem? How can I get this done?