Last post on May 27, 2013 at 6:07 PM
You are in the Ford Explorer
What is this discussion about?
Ford Explorer, Mercury Mountaineer
Go to NHTSA to file a safety complaint.
Or call Monday-Friday (8 am to 8 pm ET) (888) 327-4236 TTY: (800)424-9153
#5795 of 6386 Re: 1991 Ford Explorer [amber10]
Jun 05, 2007 (8:38 am)
First, You need to check the volts at the battery. Get a digital volt-ohm meter. Check all the battery and wire connections, make sure that they are clean and tight. Then connect the voltmeter across the battery terminals. With the engine off, you should read about 12.5 to 12.7 volts. Start engine and let idle, you should read 13.0 to 14.3 volts. If lower than this, rev the engine up a little and see if the voltage rises. Next turn on the headlights, A/C and windshield wipers, volts should stay above 13.0, if not see if the voltage rises if you rev the engine a little.
If your initial voltage is very low with the engine off, the battery needs charging or is bad.
If the voltage is low with the engine running, the alternator is bad or there is a problem with the wiring. Does your battery or Alternator light on the dash light up?
If the voltages are good with the engine running but the battery goes dead, the battery is bad or there is something draining the battery, get it tested with a LOAD TESTER at an auto parts house. They will test your battery and alternator for free.
#5796 of 6386 Re: 2003 XLT door Ajar light on [jodar96]
Jun 05, 2007 (9:03 am)
check the switch on the back hatch
#5797 of 6386 Re: 2003 XLT door Ajar light on [jodar96]
Jun 07, 2007 (7:47 pm)
We had the same problem with our 02 Mountaineer, we noticed the problem when it rained or after a car wash. The dealer couldn't find the problem cause usually it doesn't act up at the shop. The problem finally became persistent and they replaced the security control module located behind the right rear quarter panel 2 months ago. You will have to reprogram all remotes including the door keypad if you have one. It's been fine since.
#5798 of 6386 How to Diagnose Worn Shocks
Jun 08, 2007 (12:31 pm)
My 99 Explorer XLT has 83.5K on the odometer. I'm concerned about the shock absorbers. They are not leaking, the tires are fine, on the bounce test the truck will make one large bounce then 2 or 3 very small bounces after I stop pushing on the side being tested. The truck has no handling issues, except for rough ride when leaving driveways or going over bumps. Any suggestions as to a whether it is time to replace the shocks??
Thanks in advance.
#5799 of 6386 Re: 2003 XLT door Ajar light on [jodar96]
Jun 09, 2007 (7:11 am)
I have exact same problem w/ my 2002 XLS. I, too, notice it is pretty consistent after a rain (haven't used a carwash to see the effect of that). In addition to the chime coming on, the radio will stop playing when car is shut off because it thinks the door is open. This directed my thinking that it was one of the front doors having the problem, because the radio will continue to play after the car is shut off when one of the back doors is opened - only stops playing when one of the front doors is opened.
I have chosen to live with it because it doesn't affect anything else - I could really care less if the radio continues to play or not when I shut the car off.
Sounds like wifemm, comment #5797, found a solution - for the mountaineer, anyway.
I have also notice that the automatic locking that occurs when you first drive off is sometimes delayed - even up to 1/4 mile down the road.
Actually, I have had it with the size of my vehicle and gas prices - looking to downsize in, hopefully, the not so far off future.
Jun 10, 2007 (1:29 am)
i got a 1993 ford explorer, that recently has develoed a clunk in the passenger door. when it gets closed, theres 1-3 thumps that can be heard outside as well as inside. the window still works normally, as well as the lock. any ideas on what this could be?
#5801 of 6386 Re: How to Diagnose Worn Shocks [bioman]
Jun 14, 2007 (6:45 pm)
Your shocks are fine. You don't drive enough miles be to worried about it.
My 2000 has 140,000 miles, and my shocks are just fine. And I drive my V8 Explorer VERY aggressively. I hardly never slow down, unless I really need to, I fly through the air over rough railroad tracks or humps in the road, and I'm never under 100 mph on the bridge between cities on my way to and from work, unless traffic is too heavy. They are pretty strong shocks. I probably won't have to replace them even when it reaches 200,000 miles, I'll sell it then. My wifes 97 V8 Explorer has got 155,000m miles on the original shocks and, they are just fine. I drive her car on the weekends, just as hard as I drive mine.
#5802 of 6386 Re: clunking in door? [70ss454_man]
Jun 14, 2007 (6:50 pm)
Your window regulator on the inside of the door has come loose. Pull off the inside door panel and you will see the problem, either a fastener has come loose or a part has broke loose. It will be evident when you look inside the door.
#5803 of 6386 Re: Heater Core [ajmtbm]
Jun 15, 2007 (3:41 am)
For hearter control problems, take it to a radiator shop. They have to take the dash out for heater cores and are familiar with them. Save a BUNCH of money.
#5804 of 6386 Re: How to Diagnose Worn Shocks [electricdesign]
Jun 15, 2007 (4:04 am)
Thanks ED. You confirmed what I felt. I plan to keep my Explorer after I purchase a more fuel efficient vehicle. Since I do a lot work around the house I need the truck to haul large bulky items. The truck is in really good shape & I know that I will not get what it is worth if I try to sell it. As long as it does not need any major repairs the only significant expenses are the insurance and Mobil 1. The price of gas will not be a major factor since it will not be driven as much once I get a new vehicle. You really frequently take the Explorer over 100 MPH?? You are much gutsier than I. I've had my Explorer between 80- 90 a couple of time. I felt that if a went any faster it would become airborne!!
Bioman in uncrowded Delaware