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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

6385 messages,  Last post on May 05, 2013 at 7:47 AM

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What is this discussion about? Ford Explorer, Mercury Mountaineer

    

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Messages Page 580 of 639

#5791 of 6385 1994 Driver Door Sagging by jefferyg

Jun 05, 2007 (6:27 am)

I bought a 94 Explorer recently and the driver's door is sagging, making it hard to close. I've checked on the cost of replacing the hinges, but I also saw on ebay that you can get a hinge pin and bushing set to repair the old hinges. The cost for the pin and bushing set is a little over $10. The cost for the uppper hinge from my local Ford dealer is about $25 and $45 for the lower hinge. I'm sure I can get some from a salvage yard for less, but I'm not sure it's worth the hassle.
 
I would like to know if any of the rest of you have experienced this problem, and if so, how did you go about fixing it?

#5792 of 6385 2003 XLT door Ajar light on by jodar96

Jun 05, 2007 (7:22 am)

My 2003 Explorer XLT has been acting up with the "door ajar" light staying on in the dash when I know all the doors are shut. Does anyone know where the switch or the relay for this feature is? There are no little contact switches on the door frames like the old cars to pull out, clean or replace.
 
This issue is also causing the door chime to stay on when all doors are shut and the key is left in the ignition.
 
Thanks,
Joe

#5793 of 6385 1991 Ford Explorer by amber10

Jun 05, 2007 (7:40 am)

My 1991 ford explorer keeps dying on me while im drivng when i take my foot off the gas. the battery died a couple days ago but i charged it up. do i just need a new battery or is it something else?

#5794 of 6385 Re: 1994 Driver Door Sagging [jefferyg] by electricdesign

Jun 05, 2007 (8:23 am)

Replying to: jefferyg (Jun 05, 2007 6:27 am)
Replacing the hinges is a lot of work. It is much easier and cheaper to replace the hinge pins. Its a good fix. Just be sure to oil the hinge pins on all doors at least at every oil change. If they had been oiled before, they would not have went bad and the door would not have sagged.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF

#5795 of 6385 Re: 1991 Ford Explorer [amber10] by electricdesign

Jun 05, 2007 (8:38 am)

Replying to: amber10 (Jun 05, 2007 7:40 am)
First, You need to check the volts at the battery. Get a digital volt-ohm meter. Check all the battery and wire connections, make sure that they are clean and tight. Then connect the voltmeter across the battery terminals. With the engine off, you should read about 12.5 to 12.7 volts. Start engine and let idle, you should read 13.0 to 14.3 volts. If lower than this, rev the engine up a little and see if the voltage rises. Next turn on the headlights, A/C and windshield wipers, volts should stay above 13.0, if not see if the voltage rises if you rev the engine a little.
If your initial voltage is very low with the engine off, the battery needs charging or is bad.
If the voltage is low with the engine running, the alternator is bad or there is a problem with the wiring. Does your battery or Alternator light on the dash light up?
If the voltages are good with the engine running but the battery goes dead, the battery is bad or there is something draining the battery, get it tested with a LOAD TESTER at an auto parts house. They will test your battery and alternator for free.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF

#5796 of 6385 Re: 2003 XLT door Ajar light on [jodar96] by kiawah

Jun 05, 2007 (9:03 am)

Replying to: jodar96 (Jun 05, 2007 7:22 am)
check the switch on the back hatch

#5797 of 6385 Re: 2003 XLT door Ajar light on [jodar96] by wifemm

Jun 07, 2007 (7:47 pm)

Replying to: jodar96 (Jun 05, 2007 7:22 am)
We had the same problem with our 02 Mountaineer, we noticed the problem when it rained or after a car wash. The dealer couldn't find the problem cause usually it doesn't act up at the shop. The problem finally became persistent and they replaced the security control module located behind the right rear quarter panel 2 months ago. You will have to reprogram all remotes including the door keypad if you have one. It's been fine since.

#5798 of 6385 How to Diagnose Worn Shocks by bioman

Jun 08, 2007 (12:31 pm)

My 99 Explorer XLT has 83.5K on the odometer. I'm concerned about the shock absorbers. They are not leaking, the tires are fine, on the bounce test the truck will make one large bounce then 2 or 3 very small bounces after I stop pushing on the side being tested. The truck has no handling issues, except for rough ride when leaving driveways or going over bumps. Any suggestions as to a whether it is time to replace the shocks??
 
Thanks in advance.

#5799 of 6385 Re: 2003 XLT door Ajar light on [jodar96] by axsom

Jun 09, 2007 (7:11 am)

Replying to: jodar96 (Jun 05, 2007 7:22 am)
I have exact same problem w/ my 2002 XLS. I, too, notice it is pretty consistent after a rain (haven't used a carwash to see the effect of that). In addition to the chime coming on, the radio will stop playing when car is shut off because it thinks the door is open. This directed my thinking that it was one of the front doors having the problem, because the radio will continue to play after the car is shut off when one of the back doors is opened - only stops playing when one of the front doors is opened.
I have chosen to live with it because it doesn't affect anything else - I could really care less if the radio continues to play or not when I shut the car off.
 
Sounds like wifemm, comment #5797, found a solution - for the mountaineer, anyway.
 
I have also notice that the automatic locking that occurs when you first drive off is sometimes delayed - even up to 1/4 mile down the road.
 
Actually, I have had it with the size of my vehicle and gas prices - looking to downsize in, hopefully, the not so far off future.

#5800 of 6385 clunking in door? by 70ss454_man

Jun 10, 2007 (1:29 am)

i got a 1993 ford explorer, that recently has develoed a clunk in the passenger door. when it gets closed, theres 1-3 thumps that can be heard outside as well as inside. the window still works normally, as well as the lock. any ideas on what this could be?

Messages Page 580 of 639

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