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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

6385 messages,  Last post on May 05, 2013 at 7:47 AM

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Messages Page 580 of 639

#5786 of 6385 Ford Explorer Electrical Problem...Need Help by jbny2076

May 14, 2007 (8:07 am)

Hi Everyone,
 
I have an issue with my explorer. It is a 2003 XLT. If i have the car on and the A/C on and the blower is on 2,3, or 4 the Hazard lights light up on my dash, the radio light dims, the blower will not work and the car will not shift from park. If i shut off the A/C and put the blower back on 1 the radio light goes back to normal, the hazard lights go off and the car will shift from park. This is really starting to bother me. The car seems to do this ever once in a while, but now has been doing it for 2-3 days straight. Anyone had this issue or know what may be causing this? Could a fuse cause all that?

#5787 of 6385 98 ford explorer 4 wd eddie bauer, front wheel bearing? by 98explorer

May 14, 2007 (10:26 am)

I have a terrible sound coming from the front drivers side wheel. We've been told it's the wheel bearing. I guess it's not possible to just replace the front wheel bearing. I've been told that you have to replace the whole hub assembly(?) They said the part is like $170!! (auto zone) but someone else said that it may just need lubricated, but can't get to the bearing to do that. If anyone has any idea what I'm talking about or any advice, please let me know. Thanks.

#5788 of 6385 Re: 98 ford explorer 4 wd eddie bauer, front wheel bearing? [98explorer] by kiawah

May 14, 2007 (11:32 am)

Replying to: 98explorer (May 14, 2007 10:26 am)
If it's a 4 wheel drive, then you would have a halfshaft coming from the transmission out to the wheel (which has a set of bearings in it in the CV constant velocity joint), and then that halfshaft end would be connected to the hub/rotor which would have the wheel bearings in it.
 
If you can hear it, it's undoubtedly too late and you're going to need to replace whatever is defective before it totally tears itself up. I suspect it's the CV joint half shafts.

#5789 of 6385 Re: 98 ford explorer 4 wd eddie bauer, front wheel bearing? [kiawah] by zibbyds

May 17, 2007 (6:35 am)

Replying to: kiawah (May 14, 2007 11:32 am)
I also have a 98 4wd Explorer. I have abot 130,000 miles on it and just recently w/in the past few months had to replace my hub assembly on the drivers side, passenger was about 2 yrs before that. If you jiggle (l to R) the steering wheel back n forth can you hear something loose?? Have someone do that and you go under and hold on to the tie rod end, if the noise stops you need that replaced as well as the hub assembly. Check at the Advanced Auto Parts web site, I know mine was cheaper than what you said. I believe my tie rod went bad sooner than it should have because I let the hub assembly get so bad. Was very noisy. Also another thing that I have replaced lately is the sway bar link bolts, I had one broke and that i'm sure didnt help with other things wearing unevenly.

#5790 of 6385 Re: grey color oil? [electricdesign] by alman08

May 21, 2007 (11:17 pm)

Replying to: electricdesign (Apr 19, 2007 6:21 am)
ok... after checking the oil numerous times, I can now feel pretty safe. Oil is in oil color again. And I will never go back to Vacaville Ford in northern CA for any service again.

#5791 of 6385 1994 Driver Door Sagging by jefferyg

Jun 05, 2007 (6:27 am)

I bought a 94 Explorer recently and the driver's door is sagging, making it hard to close. I've checked on the cost of replacing the hinges, but I also saw on ebay that you can get a hinge pin and bushing set to repair the old hinges. The cost for the pin and bushing set is a little over $10. The cost for the uppper hinge from my local Ford dealer is about $25 and $45 for the lower hinge. I'm sure I can get some from a salvage yard for less, but I'm not sure it's worth the hassle.
 
I would like to know if any of the rest of you have experienced this problem, and if so, how did you go about fixing it?

#5792 of 6385 2003 XLT door Ajar light on by jodar96

Jun 05, 2007 (7:22 am)

My 2003 Explorer XLT has been acting up with the "door ajar" light staying on in the dash when I know all the doors are shut. Does anyone know where the switch or the relay for this feature is? There are no little contact switches on the door frames like the old cars to pull out, clean or replace.
 
This issue is also causing the door chime to stay on when all doors are shut and the key is left in the ignition.
 
Thanks,
Joe

#5793 of 6385 1991 Ford Explorer by amber10

Jun 05, 2007 (7:40 am)

My 1991 ford explorer keeps dying on me while im drivng when i take my foot off the gas. the battery died a couple days ago but i charged it up. do i just need a new battery or is it something else?

#5794 of 6385 Re: 1994 Driver Door Sagging [jefferyg] by electricdesign

Jun 05, 2007 (8:23 am)

Replying to: jefferyg (Jun 05, 2007 6:27 am)
Replacing the hinges is a lot of work. It is much easier and cheaper to replace the hinge pins. Its a good fix. Just be sure to oil the hinge pins on all doors at least at every oil change. If they had been oiled before, they would not have went bad and the door would not have sagged.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF

#5795 of 6385 Re: 1991 Ford Explorer [amber10] by electricdesign

Jun 05, 2007 (8:38 am)

Replying to: amber10 (Jun 05, 2007 7:40 am)
First, You need to check the volts at the battery. Get a digital volt-ohm meter. Check all the battery and wire connections, make sure that they are clean and tight. Then connect the voltmeter across the battery terminals. With the engine off, you should read about 12.5 to 12.7 volts. Start engine and let idle, you should read 13.0 to 14.3 volts. If lower than this, rev the engine up a little and see if the voltage rises. Next turn on the headlights, A/C and windshield wipers, volts should stay above 13.0, if not see if the voltage rises if you rev the engine a little.
If your initial voltage is very low with the engine off, the battery needs charging or is bad.
If the voltage is low with the engine running, the alternator is bad or there is a problem with the wiring. Does your battery or Alternator light on the dash light up?
If the voltages are good with the engine running but the battery goes dead, the battery is bad or there is something draining the battery, get it tested with a LOAD TESTER at an auto parts house. They will test your battery and alternator for free.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF

Messages Page 580 of 639

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