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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

6385 messages,  Last post on May 05, 2013 at 7:47 AM

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What is this discussion about? Ford Explorer, Mercury Mountaineer

    

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Messages Page 562 of 639

#5611 of 6385 advantrak light coming on by unhappy4ford

Jan 06, 2007 (2:22 pm)

I was just wondering if anyone who owns a Ford Explorer 2005 and newer is having problems with their Advantrak. My almost since day 1 has stopped working intermittently and the light comes on saying check advantrak, advantrak off but the button says its on. I have brought my car in atleast 7-9 times for this problem and all they do is reset the computer and say there is no code showing for it. We escalated it to Ford customer care and were getting some results and we thought they had finally fixed it (twice now) and a week later the light starts coming on again. We actually had to try and deliver it to them while the light was turned on so they could read the code. Of course it would never turn when I was in the area of the dealer or it was open. Finally they got it to duplicate and said they fixed it and a week later again it turned on. Now they wont return our calls and Ford customer care has told us to try another ford dealer. Has any one else had a similar problem???????

#5612 of 6385 HELP PLEASE - charged battery..can't get sec. system to shut up! by lynniecheb

Jan 06, 2007 (6:59 pm)

After jumping my sons car, my DH checked my battery charge and saw it was low so charged it up. When he took off the charger cables, the alarm system started up with horn blaring, etc. I don't have a key fob to disarm it and tried the suggestions in the owners manual (turn key to accessory, etc.) but they didn't work. Can anyone help to restore our sanity and the sanity of our neighbors?
Thanks!

#5613 of 6385 Re: more brake problems and adressing handle issue [electricdesign] by 70ss454_man

Jan 06, 2007 (7:36 pm)

Replying to: electricdesign (Jan 06, 2007 8:29 am)
thank you for this reply. if it wasnt for this, i would never have known the difference. however, they look the same size. i have not done this yet, but am plannin on it tomorrow.
ive checked the rear drums once before, and did the whole emergency brake thing, all is well.
today i noticed the brakes squeak and squak. stopping squeaks like a squealy brake, but when i accelerate, the rear brake drum lets out a low pitched whine, sounds like a fog horn. this continues untill i speed up significantly, then it fades away until the next time i stop.
thanks
~tom

#5614 of 6385 Re: HELP PLEASE - charged battery..can't get sec. system to shut up! [lynniecheb] by electricdesign

Jan 06, 2007 (7:49 pm)

Replying to: lynniecheb (Jan 06, 2007 6:59 pm)
"After jumping my sons car, my DH checked my battery charge and saw it was low so charged it up. When he took off the charger cables, the alarm system started up with horn blaring, etc. I don't have a key fob to disarm it and tried the suggestions in the owners manual (turn key to accessory, etc.) but they didn't work. Can anyone help to restore our sanity and the sanity of our neighbors?"
 
Questions in Response;
1. Obviously your sons car needed a jump, but did YOUR cars battery act normally before this jump? Meaning did your lights and electrical system seem normal to you, not dim or anything like that?
2. How did your DH know your battery was low, did he just see the battery gauge low, or did he test the battery volts with a voltmeter? Normally the battery should read about 12.7 volts with engine and everything off, and it should read about 14 to 14.2 volts with engine running and lights and AC OFF. WIth engine running and Lights and AC ON, the volts may read about 13 to 13.5 volts.
3. The alarm initiating when the battery charger was removed means there was a surge introduced, it could be because of a problem with the charger, or with your electrical system. Is the battery acting and charging normally now? Check it with a voltmeter, it you hav'nt already. Are the battery voltage readings in the normal range as I noted above?
4. The alarm should turn off if you turn the key to the on position, then to off. I hope it is off by now. If you can't get it to shut up, you may have to unplug the wires from the horns or from the horn relay (whichever is easiest to reach) until you can get if fixed at the Dealer or a Shop.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF

#5615 of 6385 Re: Heater problem [electricdesign] by ejr1203

Jan 07, 2007 (10:56 am)

Replying to: electricdesign (Jun 10, 2006 5:47 pm)
Thanks for the TIP! It worked perfectly. I now have heat in my 96 Explorer! The blend door fix worked like a champ!

#5616 of 6385 Back seat seat belt problem by dingbatblonde

Jan 07, 2007 (11:01 am)

The seat belt is stuck under the flap of the back seat. In other words, when the back seat is folded down, there is a flap that can be lifted up to retrieve the jack poles. The seat belt somehow got tucked under this flap and will not allow any movement of the seat belt. Thus, the flap is sticking straight up in the air. What do I do now?

#5617 of 6385 starter problem by autoboy16

Jan 07, 2007 (12:33 pm)

Our 04 explorer when started, will idle as normal an then fall rapidly and if the gas isn't pressed, it turns off. It happened after the 2nd time the transmission was fixed. Truck has 58kmiles. Lately, a bitter citrus like sent comes to mind...
 
-Cj

#5618 of 6385 Re: Heater problem [ejr1203] by electricdesign

Jan 07, 2007 (5:22 pm)

Replying to: ejr1203 (Jan 07, 2007 10:56 am)
"Thanks for the TIP! It worked perfectly. I now have heat in my 96 Explorer! The blend door fix worked like a champ!"
 
You're Welcome, Glad it's working for you!
E.D. ISF

#5619 of 6385 Re: Back seat seat belt problem [dingbatblonde] by electricdesign

Jan 07, 2007 (5:26 pm)

Replying to: dingbatblonde (Jan 07, 2007 11:01 am)
I am trying to picture this problem. Can you explain a little more how the seat belt is tucked under the flap?
E.D. ISF

#5620 of 6385 Re: starter problem [autoboy16] by electricdesign

Jan 07, 2007 (5:32 pm)

Replying to: autoboy16 (Jan 07, 2007 12:33 pm)
It sounds like a simple matter, this problem is usually caused by the IAC valve, it gets some dirt inside and it sticks. It needs to be removed and cleaned with some throttle body cleaner and a new gasket or replace the unit with a new one. It is easy to find, on top of the throttle body, is attached with 2 small bolts and has a 2 wire electrical connector plugged into it. Not an uncommon problem and fairly easy and inexpensive to fix.
Other things that could cause the problem are vaccuum leaks and other such stuff, but check the IAC first.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF

Messages Page 562 of 639

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