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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

6385 messages,  Last post on May 05, 2013 at 7:47 AM

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Messages Page 561 of 640

#5594 of 6385 Re: Ford Explorer 1996 [sissie] by electricdesign

Jan 01, 2007 (11:36 am)

Replying to: sissie (Jan 01, 2007 10:30 am)
Does it roll forward normally? Be sure the parking brake is released. Be sure the parking brake cables are not binding or jammed. The parking brake shoes may be jammed or stuck. You may have to pull off the rear brake rotor/drums and inspect the brakes. The rear brake disc has a small drum built into it for the smaller emergency brake shoes. I had to replace my emergency brake shoes and rear rotors on my 97 Explorer because the brake linings came unglued from the emergency brake shoes.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF

#5595 of 6385 Re: broken handle [nvbanker] by 70ss454_man

Jan 01, 2007 (4:39 pm)

Replying to: nvbanker (Dec 31, 2006 5:48 pm)
how do i do that when the back door doesnt open and its one big peice of plastic?

#5596 of 6385 abnormal brake wear by 70ss454_man

Jan 01, 2007 (7:43 pm)

is it normal for a 1993 ford explorer to warp brand new rodors at only 5000 miles, and shred brake pads? the brake pads were cracked in the middle with a 1cm gap, and on one of the pads, half of the pad itself fell off. when i brake, the thing shimmeys and shudders. is there something wrong with my calipers or something?
and i have to say, the pads and rodors were the most expensive, proven, and tested ones i could find...so i dont think its the materials...
~tom

#5597 of 6385 Re: abnormal brake wear [70ss454_man] by kiawah

Jan 01, 2007 (11:00 pm)

Replying to: 70ss454_man (Jan 01, 2007 7:43 pm)
It could be your calipers are shot. What happens (particularly if brake fluid is not regularly changed), is that small particles and/or moisture-rust can get behind the piston. Since the piston is constantly moving outward as the brake pad is wearing down, those particles don't cause a problem......until brake pads are replaced.
 
When one changes the brake pads, you need to push the pistons back in to the caliper, so the new wider pads will fit. If there are particles/rust, when the piston is forced back on top of that it tends to bind the piston. The resultant situation is that when the brakes are applied the piston is forced out to brake the rotor, but the piston doesn't float back since it is bound when the brakes are released. The brake pads wear down very quickly, the rotor can become warped with the heat (brakes applied all the time), you usually can smell the brakes, and you usually see a lot of brake dust on the rims.
 
So when a brake job is done replacing the pads, you must check that the pistons are free to float and are able to be easily pushed back. If they can't, replace the calipers at the same time you are replacing the pads. If you could push the pistons back with your hands, they are probably okay. If you had to use a c-clamp or vise grips to force them back....they are probably all bound up. With most common model vehicles, these are usually very reasonably priced and worth it to replace if in doubt.
 
I find I can usually get 2 sets of brake pad replacements for each set of caliper replacements on our vehicles, and the easiest time to replace them is while you are doing the brake job. Your situation would obviously vary depending upon your driving habits and annual mileage.
 
With the symptoms you now describe, I believe you'll find you need new calipers because the pistons are stuck, new pads because they're worn down, and new rotors because they are warped. Be sure to replace and flush out all the old brake fluid.

#5598 of 6385 Re: broken handle [70ss454_man] by nvbanker

Jan 01, 2007 (11:17 pm)

Replying to: 70ss454_man (Jan 01, 2007 4:39 pm)
Pull that plastic off, it snaps off. You'll have to do it from the inside, crawl inside the back. Sorry - it's your only choice.....

#5599 of 6385 Re: abnormal brake wear [70ss454_man] by electricdesign

Jan 02, 2007 (5:39 am)

Replying to: 70ss454_man (Jan 01, 2007 7:43 pm)
Exactly what PADs and Rotors did you use? I had a 91, 93, 97 & 2000 Ford Explorers, and never had a single rotor warp. and they were the stock rotors. I use only the Permormance Friction CARBON METALLIC Brake Pads. I find that they last a long time (60,000 miles or more) and they make the rotors last a long time.
From what you have said, replace both the front Caliphers now, and flush the brake lines, and put in all new brake fluid. You will not have this problem if you bleed out your brakes real good every 30,000 miles, same time that you should be flushing your transmission fluid.
Good Luck,
E.D.

#5600 of 6385 Re: abnormal brake wear [electricdesign] by 70ss454_man

Jan 02, 2007 (7:23 am)

Replying to: electricdesign (Jan 02, 2007 5:39 am)
ceramic reinforced pads and rodors. they're supposed to be heat resistent and all that jazz. it only started warping them the last time i put rotors on.

#5601 of 6385 Re: broken handle [nvbanker] by 70ss454_man

Jan 02, 2007 (7:24 am)

Replying to: nvbanker (Jan 01, 2007 11:17 pm)
it pops off? well that explains it i was looking for screw holes and things like that. where on it should i pull? from the sides or under the rear window?

#5602 of 6385 Re: broken handle [70ss454_man] by nvbanker

Jan 02, 2007 (5:55 pm)

Replying to: 70ss454_man (Jan 02, 2007 7:24 am)
anywhere you can.

#5603 of 6385 Re: broken handle [nvbanker] by curious_gears

Jan 02, 2007 (8:01 pm)

Replying to: nvbanker (Jan 02, 2007 5:55 pm)
ok...just so long as it really pops off!
if i break it, oh well

Messages Page 561 of 640

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