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SUVs Ford Explorer Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair
6125 messages, Last post on Oct 07, 2008 at 7:59 AM
You are in the Ford Explorer Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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does anyone know how to fix a broken handle in the rear hatch on a 1993 ford explorer? yesterday it was frozen so i really reaped on it an broke it. not off, jsut not its very loose and wont turn back to the normal position, or open anything. is there a way to get into the back door to fix it?
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Replying to: 70ss454_man (Dec 31, 2006 4:08 pm)
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I have a 1996 ford explorer It doesn't want to go in reverse. It feels like my brakes may be locked. I have to smoke my tires to back up. Help.....
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Replying to: sissie (Jan 01, 2007 10:30 am) Good Luck, E.D. ISF |
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Replying to: nvbanker (Dec 31, 2006 5:48 pm)
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is it normal for a 1993 ford explorer to warp brand new rodors at only 5000 miles, and shred brake pads? the brake pads were cracked in the middle with a 1cm gap, and on one of the pads, half of the pad itself fell off. when i brake, the thing shimmeys and shudders. is there something wrong with my calipers or something? and i have to say, the pads and rodors were the most expensive, proven, and tested ones i could find...so i dont think its the materials... ~tom
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Replying to: 70ss454_man (Jan 01, 2007 7:43 pm) When one changes the brake pads, you need to push the pistons back in to the caliper, so the new wider pads will fit. If there are particles/rust, when the piston is forced back on top of that it tends to bind the piston. The resultant situation is that when the brakes are applied the piston is forced out to brake the rotor, but the piston doesn't float back since it is bound when the brakes are released. The brake pads wear down very quickly, the rotor can become warped with the heat (brakes applied all the time), you usually can smell the brakes, and you usually see a lot of brake dust on the rims. So when a brake job is done replacing the pads, you must check that the pistons are free to float and are able to be easily pushed back. If they can't, replace the calipers at the same time you are replacing the pads. If you could push the pistons back with your hands, they are probably okay. If you had to use a c-clamp or vise grips to force them back....they are probably all bound up. With most common model vehicles, these are usually very reasonably priced and worth it to replace if in doubt. I find I can usually get 2 sets of brake pad replacements for each set of caliper replacements on our vehicles, and the easiest time to replace them is while you are doing the brake job. Your situation would obviously vary depending upon your driving habits and annual mileage. With the symptoms you now describe, I believe you'll find you need new calipers because the pistons are stuck, new pads because they're worn down, and new rotors because they are warped. Be sure to replace and flush out all the old brake fluid. |
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Replying to: 70ss454_man (Jan 01, 2007 4:39 pm)
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Replying to: 70ss454_man (Jan 01, 2007 7:43 pm) From what you have said, replace both the front Caliphers now, and flush the brake lines, and put in all new brake fluid. You will not have this problem if you bleed out your brakes real good every 30,000 miles, same time that you should be flushing your transmission fluid. Good Luck, E.D.
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Replying to: electricdesign (Jan 02, 2007 5:39 am) |
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