Last post on May 05, 2013 at 7:47 AM
You are in the Ford Explorer
What is this discussion about?
Ford Explorer, Mercury Mountaineer
Go to NHTSA to file a safety complaint.
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#5368 of 6385 Re: Rear Hatch Issue 2005 Explorer [scgalloways]
Sep 11, 2006 (7:05 pm)
Did you ever get anywhere with this? My 2005 is just over a yr and I have had the latch replaced twice. Just at 1 yr and over 15LK miles, it started popping open again randomly. Ford has been absolutely useless as they have not been able to duplicate it even when they had my vehicle for a few days. I do not want to deal with lawyers but I do not feel safe with kids and dog in the back. Please let me know if you got anywhere...
#5369 of 6385 Re: Explorer clunks [alc205]
Sep 11, 2006 (7:08 pm)
Yes, it is very strange that the Dealer can feel it, they can hear it, yet they don't know what it is, or even where it is coming from.
I would think the best thing to do is drive it until it warms up and makes the noise, then have them put it up on the rack, and try to duplicate the problem while running it on the rack, then they could see and feel under the car and find out where it is coming from.
If they can't fix it, it may be best to drive even further away to another dealer and have them check it. Maybe they can give you a loaner and you can leave it there until they figure out what the problem is, and get it fixed.
That's about all I can say about that.
Sep 11, 2006 (8:49 pm)
My husband and I have a 1991 Explorer Eddie Bauer edition. Dozens of problems : poor gas milage, wierd engine sound, also I can hear rattles when pedaling accelerator. My husband says that there are some airtubes? around an engine that should be connected correctly, but instead they are in mess. Also I'd like to know what is the difference between new and cleaned sparkplugs? Please help me
Sep 12, 2006 (6:04 pm)
I had a 1991 Eddie Bauer, it was a great car, considering it was the First Explorer. Yours sounds like it needs a lot of work, it probably has a lot of miles. Sounds like a tune up and a good going over is what it needs first.
Spark Plugs? New spark plugs are just that, New. Cleaned spark plugs are used spark plugs that have been cleaned up, NOT a recommended practice anymore. Spark plugs in a properly running engine can last up to 100,000 miles, but in a poorly running engine, the combustion is "dirty" and creates carbon deposits in the combustion chamber and on the spark plug. A dirty spark plug is a strong indication of an engine that needs attention. Don't clean the spark plugs, fix the engine. If you don't know about these things, it's best to take it to someone who does. First make sure that all hoses, wires, tubes are all properly in place. Do a basic tuneup new spark plugs, new spark plug wires, etc. While the spark plugs are out, do a cylinder compression test on each cylinder, and write down the maximum pressure developed by each cylinder. They should all be within 20% of each other. Low cylinders should be investigated for head gasket leaks, valve leaks, cylinder head cracks or leaks, or leaky piston rings. There should be no combustion gas going into the cooling system and no coolant going into any of the cylinders. There should be no steam or smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe. The cooling system should be clean, inside the radiator cap should be clean, and inside the coolant reservoir should be clean. The engine should run at normal operating temperature. There should be no vaccuum leaks and the engine should idle smoothly at 600 to 700 rpm. Check the large plastic air tube that runs from the air cleaner box to the engine intake throttle body for any leaks, cracks or holes, especially on the bottom, this is a known problem with these cars. Any cracks, leaks, or holes found in the large air tube should be taped and repaired, or replace the large air tube. The check engine light should be OFF, with no DTC's (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) stored in the computer.
The Engine Oil Level should be at the proper level with the correct motor oil and the motor oil filter should be clean. The oil and the oil filter should be changed every 5,000 or sooner. The air filter should be clean, change it every 15,000 miles or sooner. The fuel filter should be changed every 30,000 miles or sooner. The automatic transmission fluid should be changed every 30,000 miles or sooner. The brake fluid should be changed every 30,000 miles. Check all belts and hose to be sure that they are in good shape. Replace any that are questionable, old or cracked.
There, that's a start. Let us know how it runs after you get all this done.
#5372 of 6385 transmission problems
Sep 12, 2006 (9:11 pm)
Hello I have a 1995 ford explorer 4x4
it will not shift into first gear until i let up on the gas a little then it will shift and do fine. until i have to slow down really slow or stop and it does the same thing but after i let up on the gas a little it will shift and then it shifts on through. and the od light flashes and the 2wheel and 4 wheel lights will flash ,, can anyone tell me what the problem could be.
#5373 of 6385 Re: Air tubes? [electricdesign]
Sep 12, 2006 (11:57 pm)
I will try doing what you have advised, and if not ask someone who knows how to. As you can see from my rpofile, I live in Mongolia, and ther are no ford dealers here, and no place to have our car checked. Therefore it was a big help, and will let you know as soon as I'll have progress.
#5374 of 6385 Pushing the brake and gas pedals at the same time
Sep 13, 2006 (5:00 pm)
Is it just me and my big feet, or has anyone else noted that it is rather easy to push both pedals when braking to a stop on the 2006 Explorer? I have the adjustable pedals and I use only my right foot to operate the pedals. This is the only car of the dozens that I've owned over 35 years that I have to make a concious effort to get my foot only on the brake. Obviously, if this is a design error and other people have the same issue, safety is a concern. If I'm just a klutz, then it's my problem.
#5375 of 6385 Re: 2005 Ford Explorer XLT [templer]
Sep 14, 2006 (9:36 am)
I don't know why it should be such a problem to swap another factory deck with your stock deck? My dad is going to give me the factory 6-disc stereo he got for his '06 F250 work truck (for around $250 from Ford), and I intend to put it in my '05 Explorer. I assumed that it would just plug right in, although if it takes a little more work than that I can handle it.
I am sure that Car Toys or some other stereo shop may have difficulties installing a deck into the factory spot since Ford uses such mammoth stock units and they would have to spend extra time on the install. A new wiring harness and customizing and Alpine or Kenwood to fit the vehicle would cost you a few extra bucks...
But why in the heck would you not be able to swap stock for stock???
I am starting to dread making the swap myself - if you find out more, please keep me posted!
#5376 of 6385 Re: transmission problems [kyrose]
Sep 14, 2006 (4:32 pm)
I too am having this same problem except my 2wd/4wd lights do not flash. I am hoping that i dont have to get a new transmission. I have put transmission fluid in and I still am having the issue. Please help.
#5377 of 6385 Re: transmission problems [mz_coco]
Sep 14, 2006 (5:30 pm)
You and kyrose did not say what engine and transmission you have. That makes ALL the difference in the world. You probably have the 6 clyinder engine, which has the smaller more troublesome transmission behind it.
I was going to say something about the Ford layoffs announced today due to sales being lower than expected, being due to the lack of quality than we have seen in these posts, such as the transmission problems, the engine problems, and the rear axle problems, but I won't.