Ask the Car People.SM


Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

6386 messages,  Last post on May 27, 2013 at 6:07 PM

You are in the Ford Explorer Forum.

What is this discussion about? Ford Explorer, Mercury Mountaineer

    

Go to NHTSA to file a safety complaint.

Or call Monday-Friday (8 am to 8 pm ET) (888) 327-4236 TTY: (800)424-9153

Messages Page 537 of 640

#5352 of 6386 Re: 1992 Ford Explorer, Fuel gauge issue. [badphish92] by electricdesign

Sep 07, 2006 (6:59 am)

Replying to: badphish92 (Sep 07, 2006 5:54 am)
Since it indicated 1/4 Tank, the electrical parts must be working, it sounds like the problem is with the float or sending unit in the tank. I had a 1991 that did the same thing, it has a brass float that had leaked, filled with gas, and sank. I was able to buy another float, it is a separate piece that clips onto the end of the wire arm. The fuel tank is not too hard to drop, just be sure it's almost empty first, and buy the special tools to separate the fuel line connectors (available at any auto suppy store for cheap).
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF

#5353 of 6386 Re: 1992 Ford Explorer, Fuel gauge issue. [badphish92] by templer

Sep 07, 2006 (7:00 am)

Replying to: badphish92 (Sep 07, 2006 5:54 am)
My was doing the same exact thing. It was a carbon build. I took my Explorer to the Ford dealership and they put an additive in my tank, then I filled it up. Have to use the full tank before refilling. Worked for me. If that does not work, it could be the float or the sending unit. Hope this helps.

#5354 of 6386 Re: 96 Explorer starting problem - NO click in solonoid [1oldtimer] by electricdesign

Sep 07, 2006 (7:07 am)

Replying to: 1oldtimer (Sep 05, 2006 11:07 pm)
Check the small wire at the solenoid with a test light to see if it is getting power when the key is turned to the start position. If it does get power, then solenoid is not working and needs to be replaced. If there is no power on the small wire to the solenoid when the key is turned to the start position, the circuit from the key switch has a problem, it might just be a blown fuse or loose wire. I would highly recommend to repair the circuit from the key switch, instead of trying to wire around it.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF

#5355 of 6386 Re: 97 Explorer Check Eng on & O/D Flashing - Multi Error Codes [tidester] by electricdesign

Sep 07, 2006 (7:21 am)

Replying to: tidester (Sep 06, 2006 12:16 am)
All of those codes refer to the transmission, so I would check all the wiring connections and connectors first.

#5356 of 6386 Re: Starting Problems [electricdesign] by cdot925

Sep 07, 2006 (7:49 am)

Replying to: electricdesign (Aug 27, 2006 7:03 pm)
I have a 98 Ford Explorer that I just bought and it is driving me nuts because it is showing the signs of a bad alternator but the alternator seems good.
I can start the car, (sometimes) take the positive cable off the battery and the car stays running. This used to be a test to see if the alternator was good, is it still? This morning the car started fine then as I was driving on the highway the electrical gauge dropped down all the way. I got to work and left the car running. I checked the positive cable and the wires going to that and nothing. I got back in the car and turned on the AC and the electrical gauge went up to normal. Does this sound like a short of some type? Any help would be great. Oh, I also changed the battery and the fusable link and that has not solved it. Thanks Chris

#5357 of 6386 Re: Starting Problems [cdot925] by electricdesign

Sep 07, 2006 (11:44 am)

Replying to: cdot925 (Sep 07, 2006 7:49 am)
It sounds like you have the opposite of a short circuit, which is an open circuit, a loose connection, that is why your voltage guage on the dash drops down, it is losing power. It can be tricky to trace, but you need to find where the loose connection is, when it goes out, try to see what else does not have power, it may guide you to where the problem is, could be a bad connection at or near the fuse box.
Note: It is not good to take the battery lead loose with the engine running because of todays electronic alternators and electronic modules throughout the car, they get fried easily from voltage fluctuations. Test Battery/System Voltage with a volt meter across the battery, and check alternator amps output with an inductance ammeter held next to the wire from the alternator.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF

#5358 of 6386 Re: 1992 Ford Explorer, Fuel gauge issue. [badphish92] by fordexploder

Sep 07, 2006 (5:10 pm)

Replying to: badphish92 (Sep 07, 2006 5:54 am)
RE: the fuel line disconnect tools - the plastic ones didn't perform well. The metal type went into the connection further and did the job.
 
Depressurize your fuel system first - easiest way is to disconnect the fuel inertia switch under the dash (passenger side) and turn the key cranking the engine until it starves itself for gas and quits.

#5359 of 6386 Explorer clunks by alc205

Sep 07, 2006 (7:59 pm)

I have a problem!!! Between 30 and 40km/hour my truck grinds, clunks, and sounds awful. It only does this after running for 20 minutes, and is fine if I can get to 50km/hr. To me it sounds like the gears aren't meshing????? The sounds all come from the rear, louder on the left. Anyone know what this is? The truck is a '97 Explorer sport, V6.

#5360 of 6386 Re: Explorer clunks [alc205] by electricdesign

Sep 08, 2006 (4:01 am)

Replying to: alc205 (Sep 07, 2006 7:59 pm)
Check the axle bearings and rear axle.

#5361 of 6386 Re: 1992 Ford Explorer, Fuel gauge issue. [electricdesign] by badphish92

Sep 08, 2006 (5:29 am)

Replying to: electricdesign (Sep 07, 2006 6:59 am)
Thanks for the info, got a repair manual today. Going to tear it up

Messages Page 537 of 640

To POST a message, please Sign In.

Advertisement

Browse by Category

Browse by Vehicle
   View All Vehicles

Browse by Board
Browse by Topic
View All Topics

Edmunds Community

Advertisement