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SUVs Ford Explorer Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair
6115 messages, Last post on Aug 31, 2008 at 5:22 PM
You are in the Ford Explorer Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
I have a 1997 Ford Explorer with 169,000. The front end has been sqeaking for some time now and several repair shops tell me I need upper and lower ball joints. I have had my uppers replaced under warranty through JD Byrider in June of 2004. Is it possible for them to already be worn?
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Replying to: electricdesign (Aug 25, 2006 11:28 am) I have replaced both the starter and the relay. I was going to replace the ignition switch, but it appears on my 92, I will have to remove the instrument cluster to get to it, and that seems like an awful lot of work...What are the other possibilities? The battery was replaced just last weekend when the car died the first time. On Friday, after running some errands, I tried to start the car back up and got the dreaded click. No dimming of lights, etc. So I replaced the relay. I was concerned that the new relay has two large posts and two small posts. My original relay had only one small post. After I installed it, still only got a click when I tried to start it. Pulled the starter and battery and had them both tested. Both were fine. So I put the old starter back in and tried to start it and then got a whizzing noise like the starter was spinning but not engaging. So I pulled the starter back out and purchased a new one and installed it. Now instead of spinning, the new one just clicks... Any ideas? Thanks in advance... Also, now I'm really doubting my memory/ability. The starter relay has one cable that has two connectors on it for both large posts. The other two large wires look like they can only fit on the leftmost post and the small wire pushes on the small top post. Is that correct?
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Replying to: petecz (Aug 27, 2006 10:59 am) #1 - A 12 volt test light that has a sharp pointed steel test probe on one end, a light bulb in the plastic handle and and at the other end an insulated wire about 24 inches or longer with a "alligator clip" on the end of the wire. #2 - An induction Ammeter to measure current in a wire, it is a plastic body and you hold it up against a straight length of wire and it will measure how many AMPS is flowing through a wire. #3 - Optional but very helpful, a DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Meter) You can use to measure voltage and some other things (we will keep it simple for now). FIRST - Remember SAFETY FIRST - Watch out for and stay clear of moving fans and belts, stay clear of hot objects, sharp objects, etc. 12 volts won't hurt you, but a short on a battery wire can instantly make a very hot arc that can cause burns -Be Careful. Start with the test light, connect the alligator clip to the negative post of the battery and touch the probe to the positive post of the battery, the test light should light. Next, connect the alligator clip to a good metal ground on the frame or body and touch the probe to the positive battery terminal and it should light. Next touch the probe to one of the large posts on the starter relay and see if it lights. If it does, that means that post is the one connected to the battery and power is present there. If no light on one large post, touch the probe to the other large post and it should light, meaning that IT is the one connected to the battery. So now you have identified the large post on the relay as the "BATTERY POST", mark it as such. The other large post is the "LOAD POST" which carries current to the starter, mark it as such. The Load Post cable carries the current down to the starter. Check all electrical connections to be sure they are clean and tight, on battery posts, ground wire connections, relay connections, etc. Also check to be sure that you have a good ground wire connection from the engine to the frame or body of the car. Now put the Ammeter on the cable that comes from the battery to the starter, or if easier, put it on the cable that goes from the relay to the starter. In either place it will be in the series circuit that carries the current to the starter. You can tape it on the cable, or have a helper hold it there and observe the readings for you. Put the Test Light probe on the starter relay "Load Post". Have a helper try to start the car. See if the Test Light lights and if any current draw is indicated on the ammeter. If the Test Light lights, that means power is getting through the relay to the cable going to the starter. This means everything up top is working, and it is time to check underneath at the starter. Jack up the car safely on sturdy stands on a firm surface. Remember Safety First. Check that all wiring connections at the starter are clean and tight. Also check to be sure that you have a good ground wire connection from the engine to the frame or body of the car. Check the starter connections the same way that you did the relay, by connecting the alligator clip of the Test Light to a good ground on the frame or body and touching the probe to the cable coming from the battery at the post on the starter solenoid, have a helper try to start the car, the Test Light should light, indicating that you have power down to the starter solenoid. Next, touch the probe to the large post that connects the solenoid to the starter motor, and have the helper try to start the car, the light should light indicating you have power to the starter motor, meaning that the starter motor should be operating and the ammeter should be indicating a current draw of 150 to 200 amps. If at any point during this process, you do not find power where you should, that is where the problem is, and investigate at that point. If you DO have power DIRECLY across the starter motor, and it does not turn and does not draw a load on the Ammeter, then that means the motor is bad or open somehow. Go though all these steps, and if you need more help write back. Good Luck, E.D. ISF
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Replying to: emarens (Aug 27, 2006 8:59 am) |
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I have a 2003 Explorer, approx 48000 miles. It is a 4.0L - 6 cylinder. When under heavy load (getting into the throttle pretty hard), it starts "missing". Almost feels like a bad spark plug wire or two. The dealer had it for two days and could find nothing. It is more prevalent when the AC is running and also occurs more often when the temp gets into the 80's or more. Runs OK under most normal(soft) driving conditions. Doesn't seem to affect the MPG. Any ideas? Thanks.
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Replying to: cam1994 (Jul 27, 2006 11:05 am) |
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Replying to: techteach1 (Aug 28, 2006 7:48 pm) |
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Replying to: techteach1 (Aug 28, 2006 7:48 pm) Good Luck, E.D. ISF |
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Replying to: chuck1 (Jul 04, 2006 8:10 pm)
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I recently bought a 1998 Explorer Sport and have spent the last week fixing the numerous problems with the vehicle. I have one remaining problem with the radio display. Previous owner said the digital display worked intermittently for two years, then not at all for the past year. This week, it worked twice for about 1/10th of the time I was driving it. It is original equipment, the CD/Cassette/AM/FM radio. How can I fix this?
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