Last post on May 05, 2013 at 7:47 AM
You are in the Ford Explorer
What is this discussion about?
Ford Explorer, Mercury Mountaineer
Go to NHTSA to file a safety complaint.
Or call Monday-Friday (8 am to 8 pm ET) (888) 327-4236 TTY: (800)424-9153
#5314 of 6385 1997 Mercury Mountaineer lock problem
Aug 26, 2006 (4:26 pm)
I'm having a problem on my "97 merc mountaineer with the locks. It has keyless entry, keypad drivers door, and auto locks in drive. When I push lock or unlock, sometimes a lock sticks and won't go to the desired position. Normally it taks a couple of times pushing the button, but sometimes it won't go at all, then an hour or so later there is no problem. I am having this problem with three on the locks on the car.
#5315 of 6385 Re: 1997 Mercury Mountaineer lock problem [bhawker]
Aug 26, 2006 (7:45 pm)
The locks are sticking, Spray some WD-40 into the door locks to try to loosen them up. You may not be able to lube them good enough from the outside of the door. You may have to remove the interior panel from the door and lube the door locks directly. You will need to lube the locking mechanisms, the linkages and the electric lock solenoids, until they are loose and working freely.
While you are in there, it is highly advisable to lube the electric window channels and runners.
Aug 27, 2006 (8:59 am)
I have a 1997 Ford Explorer with 169,000. The front end has been sqeaking for some time now and several repair shops tell me I need upper and lower ball joints. I have had my uppers replaced under warranty through JD Byrider in June of 2004. Is it possible for them to already be worn?
#5317 of 6385 Re: Starting Problems [electricdesign]
Aug 27, 2006 (10:59 am)
I have a 92 Explorer (4.0l V6) with 160k miles. I'm unable to get it to start. It falls under category 4 of your list. The engine doesn't turn, the starter clicks, the lights stay at normal brightness.
I have replaced both the starter and the relay. I was going to replace the ignition switch, but it appears on my 92, I will have to remove the instrument cluster to get to it, and that seems like an awful lot of work...What are the other possibilities?
The battery was replaced just last weekend when the car died the first time. On Friday, after running some errands, I tried to start the car back up and got the dreaded click. No dimming of lights, etc. So I replaced the relay. I was concerned that the new relay has two large posts and two small posts. My original relay had only one small post. After I installed it, still only got a click when I tried to start it. Pulled the starter and battery and had them both tested. Both were fine. So I put the old starter back in and tried to start it and then got a whizzing noise like the starter was spinning but not engaging. So I pulled the starter back out and purchased a new one and installed it. Now instead of spinning, the new one just clicks...
Any ideas? Thanks in advance...
Also, now I'm really doubting my memory/ability. The starter relay has one cable that has two connectors on it for both large posts. The other two large wires look like they can only fit on the leftmost post and the small wire pushes on the small top post. Is that correct?
#5318 of 6385 Re: Starting Problems [petecz]
Aug 27, 2006 (7:03 pm)
Category 4 means that the starting circuit is not drawing a load. If you are getting a click, then it seems like the ignition switch would not be the problem. If you test a starting system that is operating normally by placing an ammeter on the postive battery cable going to the starter and starting the engine, the ammeter will briefly indicate the CURRENT flowing through the cable is about 150 to 200 amps. This is the NORMAL LOAD CURRENT drawn from the battery during starting. Your problem is that at some point the flow of current is being interrupted, you need to find out where. Since you are actively displaying an interest in finding the problem by replacing parts, we can start by learning and applying some electricity basics. First how familiar are you with electricity and and troubleshooting electrical circuits? If you have some idea of how it works, we can proceed. You will need to get some very basic electrical tools that are cheap to buy at your auto parts store:
#1 - A 12 volt test light that has a sharp pointed steel test probe on one end, a light bulb in the plastic handle and and at the other end an insulated wire about 24 inches or longer with a "alligator clip" on the end of the wire.
#2 - An induction Ammeter to measure current in a wire, it is a plastic body and you hold it up against a straight length of wire and it will measure how many AMPS is flowing through a wire.
#3 - Optional but very helpful, a DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Meter) You can use to measure voltage and some other things (we will keep it simple for now).
FIRST - Remember SAFETY FIRST - Watch out for and stay clear of moving fans and belts, stay clear of hot objects, sharp objects, etc. 12 volts won't hurt you, but a short on a battery wire can instantly make a very hot arc that can cause burns -Be Careful.
Start with the test light, connect the alligator clip to the negative post of the battery and touch the probe to the positive post of the battery, the test light should light. Next, connect the alligator clip to a good metal ground on the frame or body and touch the probe to the positive battery terminal and it should light. Next touch the probe to one of the large posts on the starter relay and see if it lights. If it does, that means that post is the one connected to the battery and power is present there. If no light on one large post, touch the probe to the other large post and it should light, meaning that IT is the one connected to the battery. So now you have identified the large post on the relay as the "BATTERY POST", mark it as such. The other large post is the "LOAD POST" which carries current to the starter, mark it as such. The Load Post cable carries the current down to the starter. Check all electrical connections to be sure they are clean and tight, on battery posts, ground wire connections, relay connections, etc. Also check to be sure that you have a good ground wire connection from the engine to the frame or body of the car. Now put the Ammeter on the cable that comes from the battery to the starter, or if easier, put it on the cable that goes from the relay to the starter. In either place it will be in the series circuit that carries the current to the starter. You can tape it on the cable, or have a helper hold it there and observe the readings for you. Put the Test Light probe on the starter relay "Load Post". Have a helper try to start the car. See if the Test Light lights and if any current draw is indicated on the ammeter. If the Test Light lights, that means power is getting through the relay to the cable going to the starter. This means everything up top is working, and it is time to check underneath at the starter. Jack up the car safely on sturdy stands on a firm surface. Remember Safety First. Check that all wiring connections at the starter are clean and tight. Also check to be sure that you have a good ground wire connection from the engine to the frame or body of the car. Check the starter connections the same way that you did the relay, by connecting the alligator clip of the Test Light to a good ground on the frame or body and touching the probe to the cable coming from the battery at the post on the starter solenoid, have a helper try to start the car, the Test Light should light, indicating that you have power down to the starter solenoid. Next, touch the probe to the large post that connects the solenoid to the starter motor, and have the helper try to start the car, the light should light indicating you have power to the starter motor, meaning that the starter motor should be operating and the ammeter should be indicating a current draw of 150 to 200 amps. If at any point during this process, you do not find power where you should, that is where the problem is, and investigate at that point. If you DO have power DIRECLY across the starter motor, and it does not turn and does not draw a load on the Ammeter, then that means the motor is bad or open somehow.
Go though all these steps, and if you need more help write back.
Aug 27, 2006 (7:24 pm)
The lower ball joints always wear out first, because they carry the "LOAD", the upper ball joint just holds the wheel in position, so it is strange if the uppers were replaced, but the lowers were not. I tend to believe the lowers must have been replaced, as they are usually worn out at 100,000 to 140,000 miles. The uppers are usually worn out by 140,00 to 160,000 miles, but not in two years use. I would ask for another opinion and ask them to measure how much play they measured in the balljoints. Technically, they are worn out if they have any play, but they can have up to 1/32" of play (.031") before they have any effect on alignment or performance. I would recommend to replace any balljoints that have any play exceeding 1/32" play (.031").
#5320 of 6385 Explorer engine running rough....
Aug 28, 2006 (5:37 pm)
I have a 2003 Explorer, approx 48000 miles. It is a 4.0L - 6 cylinder. When under heavy load (getting into the throttle pretty hard), it starts "missing". Almost feels like a bad spark plug wire or two. The dealer had it for two days and could find nothing. It is more prevalent when the AC is running and also occurs more often when the temp gets into the 80's or more. Runs OK under most normal(soft) driving conditions. Doesn't seem to affect the MPG. Any ideas? Thanks.
Aug 28, 2006 (7:48 pm)
I'm having a problem with my 2002 V8 low or no idle. This has happened before and I wrote it off as a clogged fuel pick-up or some bad gas, but itwent away as fast as it happened until it recurred today. Drove it about 3 miles and then parked. Came back about 4 hours later and tried to start it and it stalled. It would only stay running if I applied the throttle. Had to drive with one foot on the throttle and the other on the brake to keep engine at 1000rpm's or it would stall. It seems to run fine and accelerate, but when you pull back on the throttle it stalls. Very much like a clogged fuel filter or gas tank pickup. If it were a clogged fuel filter I would expect poor performance while driveing, but it seems to perform fine once I accelerate. Any suggestions.
#5322 of 6385 Re: Idle problems [techteach1]
Aug 29, 2006 (5:42 am)
Sounds like it might be a stuck or malfunctioning EGR valve or a vacuum line disconnected or broke off of the intake manifold. I had a similar problem with my 99 XLT V6 SOHC. Can't hurt to check out.
#5323 of 6385 Re: Idle problems [techteach1]
Aug 29, 2006 (7:18 am)
I agree with the bioman, it sounds most likely like a problem with a vaccuum leak or EGR system. Listen under the hood and see if you can hear any sound of a vaccuum leak, like a hissing sound. I had a similar problem with my 2000 V8 a few weeks ago, it had a vaccuum leak in a vaccuum valve mounted under the left front fender near the horns, I had to pull the inner plastic fender apron loose to be able to get to it. I think it was some kind of cannister purge valve, it had several large vaccuum lines going to it, and the valve had somehow developed a hole in the back of it, that I patched with some epoxy glue. You could have a vaccuum leak just about anywhere on the engine or on any of the hoses. If you can't find it, check the engine vaccuum with a vaccuum gauge to see if the vaccuum is going low. Then next thing to check is the EGR valve and control solenoid. Sometimes the EGR valve passages get clogged and make the valve stick, cleaning the valve and passages will usually fix it, unless something worst is wrong.