Last post on Oct 26, 2013 at 4:56 AM
You are in the Ford Explorer
What is this discussion about?
Ford Explorer, Mercury Mountaineer
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#5307 of 6400 Re: 1997 Ford Explorer [wpack]
Aug 20, 2006 (6:01 am)
What engine do you have? How many miles? I would assume it has over 100k miles. Several things can cause the engine #1 cylinder to misfire, plugs and wires are just two of them. You could have a vaccuum leak that is affecting that cylinder, or an electrical problem with the coil, or a problem with the fuel injector, or an internal problem in the cylinder such as a leaking valve, a leaking gasket, or a cracked head. Start with the easiest things first and work your way towards the most difficult problems, until you find the problem. Check the ignition spark at the end of the #1 spark plug wire, to be sure it is strong, compare it to the others, don't get shocked! Check all the vaccuum lines to be sure there are no leaks. Put a vaccuum gauge on the intake manifold to check the engine vaccuum under all conditions. There might be a vaccuum leak on an intake gasket near the #1 cylinder. Then run a compression test on all the cylinders, do a dry test first, then a wet test second. Compare the results between all the clyinders and between the first test and the second test.
There, that's a few things you can do to check to get you started. Let us know what you find.
#5308 of 6400 False ground?
Aug 21, 2006 (9:26 am)
While trying to diagnose a starting/battery problem in my '93 Explorer, I happened to check voltage from the battery positive to engine ground with the negative battery cable removed (positive still connected. I was surprised to see 2 volts between the battery and the engine. Is this normal? What would cause such a reading? Battery took a charge from a charger and engine started when all hooked back up, but is now dead again after sitting overnight.
#5309 of 6400 Re: False ground? [asdanz]
Aug 21, 2006 (8:00 pm)
Not a False Ground, but a False Reading. What are you using to read the voltage? Probably a sensitive digital VOM, They can read the faintest traces of voltage. You are probably reading a "surface charge", or "static charge", which is kind of a "GHOST CHARGE", a voltage present with hardly no current. There could be a slight charge bleeding through the battery case, wash the outside of the battery with soap and water, rinse with baking soda solution to neutalize any acid on the outside of the battery, especially the sides and bottom. Check to be sure you have a good ground connection from the engine to the chasis, there should be a flexible grounding strap wire for this somewhere in the engine compartment. I would bet that if you were to connect a 12 volt Test Light between the battery positive terminal to chasis ground with the negative battery cable removed, the light would not light and that if at the same time you connected the DVOM between the battery positive terminal to chasis ground with the negative battery cable removed, the voltage would read zero. Do that and tell us what you read. The light bulb connected across the circuit bleeds off the "surface charge" so that the DVOM correctly reads zero volts, or very near zero volts. Test and see if that's correct.
Once you answer back, we can get into why your battery is going dead and how to test for parasitic current draw from the battery.
#5310 of 6400 Re: '99 Ford Explorer AC/Defrost problem [bmr0330]
Aug 22, 2006 (11:22 am)
Has anyone provided any advice on your problem? I have a '98 Explorer Sport that just started doing the same.
Aug 25, 2006 (5:37 am)
Hello Fokes, I'm a member of a classic car forum and know that you guys will have the answer to my problem. My wifes explorer is having a starting problem. She took it to church while I was out of town and it would not start when church was over. She tried it the next day and it sarted. She drove it two days no starting problem. Then she came to the airport to pick me up, shut it off, then it would not start. It sat for a while awaiting the tow truck driver and when he arrived it started. Its in the shop but they can not duplicate the problem. Any suggestions?
#5312 of 6400 Re: Starting Problems [catownersdad]
Aug 25, 2006 (10:28 am)
What Year Explorer? What engine? How many miles?
Intermittent problems are the most difficult to diagnose.
"Would not start" needs more explaination.
When the vehicle does not start, which one or the following conditions most fits your situation?
1. The Engine turns normally, the head lights and the dome light do NOT dim too much, the engine does not start.
2. The Engine turns very slowly or barely turns and slows to a stop, the head lights and the dome light dim very much, the engine does not start.
3. The Engine does not turn at all, the starter clicks, the headlights and the dome light dim very much or go off.
4. The Engine does not turn at all, the starter may or may not click, and the head lights and dome light stay at normal brightness (may flicker very slightly when starter clicks).
5. None of the above.
6. All of the above.
#5313 of 6400 Re: Starting Problems [catownersdad]
Aug 25, 2006 (10:51 am)
It may be the electronic module. It will test ok when the car is starting. You have to test it when the car won't start. I learned this the hard way-after several tows. Good luck!
#5314 of 6400 1997 Mercury Mountaineer lock problem
Aug 26, 2006 (3:26 pm)
I'm having a problem on my "97 merc mountaineer with the locks. It has keyless entry, keypad drivers door, and auto locks in drive. When I push lock or unlock, sometimes a lock sticks and won't go to the desired position. Normally it taks a couple of times pushing the button, but sometimes it won't go at all, then an hour or so later there is no problem. I am having this problem with three on the locks on the car.
#5315 of 6400 Re: 1997 Mercury Mountaineer lock problem [bhawker]
Aug 26, 2006 (6:45 pm)
The locks are sticking, Spray some WD-40 into the door locks to try to loosen them up. You may not be able to lube them good enough from the outside of the door. You may have to remove the interior panel from the door and lube the door locks directly. You will need to lube the locking mechanisms, the linkages and the electric lock solenoids, until they are loose and working freely.
While you are in there, it is highly advisable to lube the electric window channels and runners.
Aug 27, 2006 (7:59 am)
I have a 1997 Ford Explorer with 169,000. The front end has been sqeaking for some time now and several repair shops tell me I need upper and lower ball joints. I have had my uppers replaced under warranty through JD Byrider in June of 2004. Is it possible for them to already be worn?