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#5143 of 6385 Re: rear end problems [seres4]
by electricdesign
Jul 10, 2006 (9:09 pm)
I don't think I'd call this "Good Stuff", all these serious problems and all. Myself, I simply can't afford to have problems like that, they would break me to the bone, and I'd have to be walking, and I live in one city, and have to drive across the bay and work in another city! I sincerely believe that NO ONE should ever have to go through anything like that. Vehicles should Definitely be built to be relatively trouble free for over 100,000 miles, and if a good reputable one, expect it to go OVER 200,000 trouble free miles! That is what I expect of my vehicles, almost. Some minor things will go wrong, but no major stuff, It's ok to go through a couple of more batteries over 12 years time, a radiator, a starter, a couple of window lift motors, an alternator, a water pump or fan, an AC compressor, and then of course all your wear items. But major Engine or Transmission work is totally unacceptable in a vehicle that is fairly new (I consider 100,000 miles to be fairly new to me). I feel very sorry for you guys having these rediculous problems. Ford is definitely not what it used to be. I know you guys like your new cars and your new car warranties, but what do you do when the warrenty runs out? You are out of luck, that's what. What is means is that you really need to buy an extended warranty for your vehicle before it's too late. With a vehicle like a Ford Explorer, you'd be crazy not to have an extended warranty. Unless you do like I do, and settle for a GOOD USED one, which are not easy to find. I grew up in a neighborhood where everybody fixed their cars. I spent many nights in fascination holding a work light for my neighbors as they fixed their cars, rebuilt engines, trannys, axles whatever. My first job working at McDonalds when the hamburgers, fries and coke all cost 15 cents each, a meal cost 47 cents, I made 36 dollars my first week and I took that money and bought me a new two barrel carburetor for my old 55 Pontiac, what a joy that was. Anyway, I worked on cars and got used to it, and never minded getting my hands dirty. Of course it's warm down here, so we didn't freeze to death when working on the cars in the winter, but the mosquitos would carry us off on those hot summer nights. But I had to give a lot of that up in my old age now, can't handle pulling trannies and engines now, and I know a lot of you would rather not, so I found that doing extensive research has saved me a whole lot of trouble, by buying the RIGHT vehicle to start with. Edmunds has helped me a lot with the research over the years. A good way to find out about how good a car is, is to talk to the people who have owned them for several years, talk to the transmssion parts house guys, talk to the mechanics. How many of you guys would have bought something else, instead of what you bought, if you could go back in time and do it over again? If you knew THEN what you know NOW, would you have bought that Explorer? Well, the die is cast, and we can't go back, but we sure can learn from our mistakes, I know I did! I researched a lot, and that is why I bought a used 2000 Explorer XLT in 2005, with a 5.0L V8 engine and the 4R70W transmission, and a straight cast iron rear axle (3.55 ratio, non LS). I would have preferred a 3.73 ratio LS rear axle, like my wifes 1997 XLT V8, but I got a really good deal on this vehicle, in March 2005 I paid $8500 plus taxes, they were selling everywhere down here then for $9500 to 10,000, it is fully loaded, leather, keyless, everything, and LOOKED and DROVE like NEW. It had brand new Ford brakes front and rear. And over a year later, it still drives like new, everything works perfect, put on a set of new Goodyear Wrangler tires. I maintain my vehicles to perfection, and I am confident it will give me fairly trouble free performance well over 200,000 miles. I will unload it to some lucky kid it when it gets 12 years old and about 200K on it. What I knew when I was shopping for this vehicle in 2005 was that I would NOT get a V6 Engine, and I would not get the floating rear suspension with the aluminum rear axle. What that meant was I would be shopping for an Explorer no newer than a 2001, because they changed to the full floating rear suspension and aluminum rear axle in 2002, I would be shopping for a V8 Engine because the engine and the transmission behind it are known to be very reliable, I would be shopping for a 2 wheel drive, because it is more trouble free and I didn't need 4WD anyway, and miles didn't scare me if it was in good shape, no warranty needed.
Good Luck Fellas,
E.D. ISF
#5144 of 6385 Re: rear end problems [seres4]
by theturc
Jul 11, 2006 (8:36 am)
Ive been writing in on my 2004 Explorer with rear end problems and transmission problems. I am now at 29K miles and the transmission is up to the same old problems.
Nice to hear that Im not the only one in the same boat with the transmission problems. I was just back to the Ford Dealership again (8th time) because the transmission slipped out of gear and then back in again. There is nothing they can, or will, do because they cant duplicate the problem. As stated by another writer an Extended warranty should be the obvious when purchasing one of these vehicles. I was lucky enough to purchase a 100K extended warranty when this vehicle was new.
I thought for a while that the easiest thing to do would be is to sell this piece of **** but then I would be saddled with a new vehicle and another new car loan. So, Ive decided to drive this Explorer until the extended warranty runs out and make Ford continue to fix it (the extended warranty is through Ford). By the end of the warranty it should cost them alot of money (two new ring and pinions and one new transmission already). I also live in Arizona which has great Lemon Laws, but since they wont say there is a problem, I cant get the Lemon Laws to work in my favor. There has to be 3 documented repairs for the same problem. Maybe I can get lucky and have the rear end go out again.
Also, I wonder if a class action suit against Ford would make them wake up?? Any thoughts?
#5145 of 6385 My Explorer is Quitting as I'm driving
by cuznvern
Jul 11, 2006 (9:18 am)
I'm new to this forum and what I have read , there seems to be some knowledgable people here, so here it goes. I have a 91 explorer v-6 4.0 . Me and my mechanic buddy put a used engine from a 95 ranger about 4 years ago into it with no problems till now. Yesterday I was driving and it just quit on me. Could not start it back up. After an hour it started up but died about a mile down the road. This morning it started but it died about 15 minutes later. We have plenty of fuel pressure. My buddy thinks that once it gets hot Im losing spark for some reason. He's thinking it could be some relay or sensor going bad. I changed the fuel filter last year and the old one wasn't really that bad. Any suggestions?
#5146 of 6385 Re: Leaking Fuel Line [brian37]
by cuznvern
Jul 11, 2006 (9:44 am)
I had a similar problem. My leak was on the elbow of the fuel regulator(at least that is what I was told it was.)The ford dealer Iwent to said I had to buy the whole harness which was the regulator and the fuel line for $350. I found a junk yard here in cincinnati that sold me the regulator for $10. After some "rigging" it worked out fine. I would try to find a salvage yard that will work with you. Of course you know its a crapshoot, but I got lucky
#5147 of 6385 Re: My Explorer is Quitting as I'm driving [cuznvern]
by trekker007
Jul 11, 2006 (11:22 am)
I have a similar problem with my 1996 Ford Explorer. My mechanic thought it may be a problem with this idle control sensor (about $65) which is connected by two screws in the engine compartment. It was replaced and did not solve the problem. He then replaced a speed sensor (about $34)in the transmission and it seemed to not die by running but it still dies when shifting from park to reverse or drive. It may be another problem also. I would appreciate any advice if you figure out what is going on with your car.
Jul 11, 2006 (3:47 pm)
I purchased a used 2002 Ford Explorer in Sept ‘04. During the past 9 months, it has been in the shop three times:
1. Oct 15, 2005 - $810 to replace the solinoid, because the OD light was flashing & the car was jerking into gear.
2. March 13, 2006 - $1,874 to rebuild my transmission, because the OD light was on permanently and car would not go into 3rd gear...sounds like #1 (see above).
3. June 6, 2006 - the dealer wanted over $2,300 for brakes!!! Since I did not have the money, I suggested he do the "most" he could for the "minimum" amount of money and walked out paying $653 for rotors! I had never had squeaks because I had just had my brakes done about 18 months prior. The ABS light still comes on.
In addition I had to PAY for a rental car each time, amounting over $176!!!
Since I purchased my Explorer used in Sept ‘04, I will not have it paid off until Sept ‘08...what else can I expect to "shell out" in repair cost, while trying to pay it off? OR, should I trade it in now for a newer car?
#5150 of 6385 Re: sickofpaying [sickofpaying]
by electricdesign
Jul 11, 2006 (4:46 pm)
Gosh, This is enough to make a grown man cry! See my post #5143, if you havn't already. You didn't say what engine and drive you have. You have a 2002 Explorer, probably a 6 clyinder, and that is probably why the problem with the transmisson. The 4R70W transmission behind the V8 rarely gives any problems. I have TWO of them, one is a 1997 with 146,000 miles and one is a 2000 with 124,000 miles, and NO PROBLEM with either one yet. I'm not trying to rub it in, just trying to point out the importance of buying the RIGHT vehicle.
Now for the BRAKES, $2,300 for brakes, that's just plain crazy!!! NUTS!!! I buy the best both front and rear brake pads, CARBON METALLIC (better than the originals) for just over $100 delivered to me. I get them on the internet from brakewarehouse.com. I never have to replace the rotors, because these brake pads make the rotors last a long time. I would never pay over $50 to $60 for a rotor. The brakes are wear items and these Carbon Metallic Pads will last 60,000 to 70,000 miles. They last me 60,000 miles and I drive VERY hard in stop and go driving, I frequently go well over 100mph if I get the room, and I slam on the brakes hard when I need to, I never have any brake problems, or tranny problems or engine problems with my V8 Explorers. I would highly suggest that you buy the parts yourself, that way you know you are getting good parts. If you can't put the parts on yourself, take it somewhere where they will put the parts on for you. But the brake parts are VERY EASY to put on. Just remember Safety First. If you can safely jack up the vehicle, put it on strong sturdy stands, and have all 4 wheels off, you've got half the work done, but I would suggest doing one wheel at a time.
The ABS might be a different story, depending on what is wrong with them. That will take accurate diagnosis by a trained professional, you might be able to handle it if you are mechanically inclined and get the proper repair info from alldatadiy.com or from a Ford Workshop DVD.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
#5151 of 6385 Re: sickofpaying [electricdesign]
by sickofpaying
Jul 11, 2006 (7:08 pm)
Thanks for the response. The $2,300 for the brake could very well be related to me being "automobile-challenged"! Yes, they "saw me coming"! As far as the transmission, yes it is a 6 cylinder, but I am not a fast driver (rarely over 75 mph) nor do I brake-hard. I've had Fords all my life...sarted with an Escort, then Probe, Mustang, 95 Explorer and now my 2002 Explorer...they all seemed to have had transmissin problems right around 80k miles...then everyone screams - get a Toyota or Honda...hmmm. Thanks again!
#5152 of 6385 '01 Ford Explorer XLS dies out when in gear
by lilmama
Jul 11, 2006 (11:28 pm)
Hi i'm new to this site and i need help with my car, see my problem is that when i put my truck in gear (reverse or drive) it dies out. i went to a ford dealer to have them diagnos it and they said it was a transmission problem, but for them to look exactly what the problem is, they have to open the transmission up but they need me to authorize it, so if the part that needs replacing is covered under my extended warranty, then all i pay is the 100 dollar deductible, but if not i'm liable to pay $600!!! just for them to look at it. so i ended up taking the truck back home, while i die out everytime i come to a stop, i ended up paying 100 dollars diagnostic fee, but i didn't feel like gambling 500 dollars just for them to look at the problem! i need help real bad please if anybody out there knows what my trucks problems is. pls respond to this. I went to Autozone and explained whats wrong, and they said its the I.A.C (Idle Air Control?) so i bought it and i replaced it myself and then tested it and its still the same. so what else could be wrong with my truck. ???? when i'm running more than 25 mph its fine i even drive it on the freeway and it doesn't die out, but only when i come to a stop and slow down thats when it dies out. help!!!