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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

6126 messages,  Last post on Oct 08, 2008 at 8:52 AM

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What is this discussion about? Ford Explorer, Mercury Mountaineer

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#4988 of 6126 '93 Eddie Bauer Ed. - automatic 4 WD does not work by pafriedley May 01, 2006 (7:51 am)
I have a 1993 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer Ed. and the automatic 4 WD does not work any more. I can't figure out what is wrong and the only thing I have not done is replace the control panel (buttons) for the automatic 4WD found on the dash. Has anyone had this problem? Thanks. Replies to this message: jarmendi (May 12, 2006 5:33 am) kwccorb (Jul 23, 2006 7:50 pm)
#4989 of 6126 2003 Explorer XLT - Electrical Problems by willows May 02, 2006 (10:27 am)
I have a 2003 Explorer xlt 4x4 that has 38,000 miles on it. A few months ago the front lighter (what are they called now that they aren't used as a cigarette lighter?) stopped working. I just let it go because I have the rear one and planned to take care of it before the summer. Now when I set the car alarm, it is giving two beeps instead of one even if all the doors are closed. I have also noticed that the "open door" light is going on when I start it up even if all the doors are closed.   Has anyone else had these problems? I have the extended warranty so will bring it to the dealer but was wondering if anyone knew the root of the problem.   Thanks!
#4990 of 6126 Re: Engine problems with 94 Explorer [electricdesign] by fordsstumpme May 02, 2006 (12:38 pm)
Replying to: electricdesign (May 01, 2006 4:30 am) Thank you!!!! The problem was big holes on the bottom of the air tube and a dirty MAF sensor(probably from the gapping holes in the tube). The Explorer runs like a champ now. Without this site I would have still been pulling my hair out. Thanks again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Replies to this message: electricdesign (May 02, 2006 6:15 pm)
#4991 of 6126 Re: Engine problems with 94 Explorer [fordsstumpme] by electricdesign May 02, 2006 (6:15 pm)
Replying to: fordsstumpme (May 02, 2006 12:38 pm) You are certainly welcome, glad to help.
#4992 of 6126 Re: Intermittent "Door Ajar" Light [uncledennis] by revrider May 04, 2006 (10:38 am)
Replying to: uncledennis (Jun 18, 2003 4:52 pm) Had the same problem on my 2002,it was intermittent at first. When it was working right I opened and closed each door till it would stay on. It ended up being the driver's door, if you banged on it on the outside near the handle it would go off, I lubed the latch mechanism and key lock cylinder with wd-40, seems to be ok after 3 mos, must be a switch that sticks in there someplace.
#4993 of 6126 2004 Explorer-need brakes w/28,xxx miles? by ssallade May 05, 2006 (8:35 am)
We've had a lot of rain lately, so I was thinking that was the reason for my brakes squeaking...but now I feel that shudder if I have to stop suddenly-that tells me I may need brakes. I've NEVER needed brakes on a car (previous Explorer included) before around 50,000 miles. Anybody else having this problem? Do these symptoms mean there could be something else wrong other than wear/tear on the brakes? Replies to this message: bioman (May 05, 2006 11:29 am) electricdesign (May 06, 2006 10:13 am)
#4994 of 6126 2000 Sport Electrical problem by copierguy May 05, 2006 (11:20 am)
I have a 2000 sport. Recently the rear running lights and dash lights went out. I replaced a blown fuse, but they still do not work. Can anyone help? Thank You
#4995 of 6126 Re: 2004 Explorer-need brakes w/28,xxx miles? [ssallade] by bioman May 05, 2006 (11:29 am)
Replying to: ssallade (May 05, 2006 8:35 am) You must have had a very light foot! 50K and no brake pads required. I'll bet you need them now. I replaced the front pads on my 99 XLT at 22K, 50K and 71K. Rear at 40K & 75K. The last replacements, front & rear, were Raybestos QS Ceramic. That squealing you hear is the warning that your brakes pads are at the point of being completely worn. I hope you did not have uneven wear on the brake pads. Sometimes this could mean you are eating in to one side of the rotors. Get it checked ASAP!!
#4996 of 6126 Re: 2004 Explorer-need brakes w/28,xxx miles? [ssallade] by electricdesign May 06, 2006 (10:13 am)
Replying to: ssallade (May 05, 2006 8:35 am) I have been using the Performance Friction Carbon Metallic Brake Pads on my last 4 Explorers, because they last over 60,000 miles when used with the stock rotors. I do a lot of stop and go city driving. They are LOW dust and can take hard braking, and high temperatures, and are not that expensive, about $42 for the front and about $45 for the rears, plus shipping. The Carbon Metallic pads will actually make the rotors last longer and wear more evenly. I highly recommend the Performance Friction Carbon Metallic brake pads, I keep a set on the shelf in the garage when the pads on the vehicle get down to about 5/32" of lining. New pads have 11/32" of lining, and you MUST replace them when they get down to 3/32" of lining or before. That means you can get over 60,000 miles out of 8/32" of lining, which computes to getting about 8,000 miles out of each 1/32" of lining. I have never had to replace or resurface any rotor after running the Carbon Metallics on them. On my 1997 V8 Explorer, I ran the Carbon Metallics for over 60,000 miles until they wore out, and the rotors still looked good, and I put another set of Carbon Metallics on the same rotors. That vehicle now has almost 150,000 miles with the original front rotors, and they have never been turned, are not warped and they brake very smooth and straight. It is amazing how the brakes still feel like new. You can find the Carbon Metallics with a Google Search. Just remember to keep up all maintenance. Every 30k, I flush all the brake fluid at the same time that I flush the transmission fluid. It only uses about a quart bottle of brake fluid, well worth spending the 5 bucks. The transmission flush cost me 50 bucks for 20 quarts of Mercon V Trans Fluid, plus 10 bucks for the Trans filter. Good Luck, E.D. in Sunny Florida
#4997 of 6126 Re: seal squeak [pmadsen] by electricdesign May 06, 2006 (8:51 pm)
Replying to: pmadsen (Apr 30, 2006 8:22 am) I thought it sounded strange, that you had a terrible squeak even with the belt off. Then the same thing happened to me! I've got a 2000 Ford Explorer XLT with the 5.0L V8 engine. You did not mention your engine size. I started getting squeaking and squealing sounds last week and thought it would be the idler pully bearings going bad. I pulled off the belt, and sure enough I still heard the squealing, it kind of comes and goes, stops and starts, or it may start and continue for a while. It sure did sound exactly like a dry rubber seal squealing, and the only seal it could be is the one on the front of the crankshaft, behind the harmonic balancer pully. It was very difficult to reach, but I squirted WD-40 behind the pully in the direction of the seal, from every angle that I could reach. It seemed to work, as the squeal has went away for now. The question now is if the squeal will stay gone or not. I replaced the bearings in both of the idler pullies while I was in there, as they were starting to get loose and did not spin smoothly. I'll post back if the squeak reocurres, and what the solution would be. I'd hate to have to drain the cooling system, pull the radiator, pull the fan and pull the Harmonic Balancer Pully just to reach a squeaky seal. If I did all that work, I'd be sure to put in a new seal and grease it good with some synthetic grease. Once the Harmonic Balance Pully is off, the Front Crankshaft Seal removes from the front, so the timing cover does not need to be removed. Just pull out the old seal, and press in the new seal, and put everything back together. Good Luck, E.D. in Sunny Florida

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