Last post on Oct 26, 2013 at 4:56 AM
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Ford Explorer, Mercury Mountaineer
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#4953 of 6400 2003 Explorer XLT sport with grinding/binding rear axle
Apr 15, 2006 (5:42 am)
With 56K miles, my Explorer developed a grinding/binding feel at rear axle when the wheel were truned and was ready to take off. The dealer diagnosed the problem as "Sticking clutch plates" in rear axle. While they were replacing the clutch pack, they also replaced gear& pinion, and it apears that most moving parts in the rear axle.
I have an extended warranty to 75K miles. It cost me $100 deductible to have this fixed. Do NOT buy an Explorer without at least the $800 5year/75K extended powertrain warranty. I am not a believer in buying extended warranties, but with 2002-2005 Ford Explorer it is a must. I chose an Explorer over Toyota 4 Runner, and Honda Pilot. I knew the Explore is not nearly as reliable, but I liked the Explorer looks, room, and its ability to pull.
#4954 of 6400 Re: Smoke from emergency flasher button 2000 Explorer [carolk1]
Apr 15, 2006 (12:06 pm)
I think i just figured out what milage that this happens at.
I have a 2000 explorer eddie bauer with 43,500 miles and that just happened to me, it's happened about four times in the last week, and now i know what it is. It's a short in the "multifunction switch" which is your turnsignal, wiper, hi/low beam, hazard control.
This switch is ford part # YL5Z 13K359 AAA and can be purchased from the dealership for about 85 bucks. It is VERY easy to replace and only requires removing several screws to get the steering column cover off. I don't know what the dealer would charge to do that but seriously you can do it yourself, i just did it this morning.
rockauto.com also has these switches at about half the price, but i opted to change this out stat as it's a fire hazard.
#4955 of 6400 Re: Smoke from emergency flasher button 2000 Explorer [carolk1]
Apr 15, 2006 (1:35 pm)
It's the multifunction switch going bad, a common problem on explorers. It needs to be replaced ASAP. It is easy to do it yourself, if you want. Ours lasted to past 130,000 miles. I paid $63.62 for the 1997 Ford Explorer part at the Ford dealer in St Pete. I stated this back in post #4924.
#4956 of 6400 Re: 2003 Explorer XLT sport with grinding/binding rear axle [jodar96]
Apr 15, 2006 (1:56 pm)
You would not have had that problem if you would have checked the fluid level to be sure it was full with the correct fluid and then went out into a large empty parking lot and done a bunch of "figure eights" in both directions when you first noticed the problem. I don't know if it would have help after they started sticking and binding badly though.
That is a rare problem to have, as most people exercise the friction plates enough in normal driving. It could have possibley went bad due to a low fluid level or lack of "friction modifier" additive. There might have been a small leak or seepage to cause loss of fluid. It could also be damaged by any water leaking into the differential, by going through high water, with a damaged, loose or broken vent hose. Just be sure that rear axle has the correct 75W-140 Synthetic lubricant and "friction modifier" additive, the vent hose is in good shape and the vent not clogged. Check your owners manual for fluid requirements.
#4957 of 6400 Dome Light cover removal
Apr 15, 2006 (7:55 pm)
I need to replace the Dome lamp light bulb in a 2004 Explorer XLT. I'm having trouble removing the platic cover to get to the light. I took 2 flat head screw drivers and put them on each end to try and pry it open but it wouldn't come out. I'm don't want to try to hard and break the cover. Is there some other way to get this off?
#4958 of 6400 charging system check displayed on oderometer
Apr 15, 2006 (11:24 pm)
I have a 2002 Mercury mountaineer and found the alternator not putting out any voltage but the check system on the truck said that the charging system is okay. I trust my fluke voltage meter than that of the trucks. So I replaced the alternator and got 14.21 vdc to the battery plus or minus. The display now tells me to check the charging system. Already left the battery disconnected overnight to reset the ECM but it didn't help is there anything else that i can do to make the truck realize that the alternator is working.
#4959 of 6400 Problem with interior lights in 2000 explorer
Apr 16, 2006 (7:59 am)
I am having a problem with my interior lights with my 200 explorer. The other night they wouldn't turn off and they still wont turn off which resulted in me removing the bulbs. Are there any suggestions on how to solve this problem?
#4960 of 6400 Re: Problem with interior lights in 2000 explorer [miketag83]
Apr 16, 2006 (10:26 am)
Pull the fuse for now.
#4961 of 6400 Re: Problem with interior lights in 2000 explorer [miketag83]
Apr 16, 2006 (11:02 am)
There is a dimmer switch on the dash that if rotated "up" as far as it can go will turn on the interior lights. If the switch is in the "on" position the lights will stay on. Try rotating the switch down. If you hear a click, I'll bet the light will turn off.
Apr 17, 2006 (9:17 am)
I'm looking to purchase a used Ford Explorer 2-3 years old.
What I've gathered here is that the V8 is more desireble than the V6. Comments here have led me to believe the extra power doesn't come at much of a sacrifice to gas milege.
But after scanning used Explorers, there are many more V6's for sale making them easier to find and cheaper to purchase.
Is there a model year of the Explorer in the past 4+ that marks a big change? Has the engine or chasis changed much?