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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

6385 messages,  Last post on May 05, 2013 at 7:47 AM

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Messages Page 472 of 639

#4707 of 6385 Re: 1999 ford explorer ginding noise from front wheel [ford_suv_rooki] by nightshift

Dec 20, 2005 (10:30 am)

Replying to: ford_suv_rooki (Dec 19, 2005 12:16 pm)
If it's a grinding noise without much squeaking, it's usually the wheel bearings. I think u have to buy the whole unit (bearings AND housing), not just the bearings, and that could run as much as $200 for parts alone. If you are able to replace only the bearings, they are only $5-20. Fortunately this is not a complicated procedure and I'm sure you could find a guide on how to do it fairly easy.

#4708 of 6385 Re: 1997 ford explorer keyless entry [ghost6] by pjd4

Dec 20, 2005 (11:03 am)

Replying to: ghost6 (Dec 09, 2005 9:13 am)
WHEN THE EXPLORER WAS BROUGHT NEW THEIR WAS A CARD WITH THE KEYLESS ENTRY CODE ON IT. THAT WAS PART OF THE OWNER MANUAL ( LITTLE BLUE BOOK). READ THE SECTION IN THE OWNER MANUAL MAYBE THE OWNER WROTE THE CODE IN THERE. THE OWNER ALSO SAY THE CODE IS ON THE COMPUTER MODULE. ONCE YOU HAVE THE OEM CODE YOU CAN REPROGRAM IT TO YOUR OWN 5 DIGIT CODE. THE OWNER MANUAL WILL TAKE YOU THRU THE PROCEDURE.
OR TAKE YOUR VIN NUMBER TO YOUR LOCAL FORD DEALER AND BUY THE CODE. I HAVE A MAILING TAG ON MY KEYS : FORD BOX 546 LATHRUP VILLAGE MI 48076 SENT THEM A LETTER.
I THIS HELPS

#4710 of 6385 Ford explorer Driver window problem: by newyork631

Dec 21, 2005 (9:43 am)

I own a 99 Ford Explorer XLT Suv 4WD, V-6 4.0 Liter. Currently on 88k. Power windows. I have encountered problems in the past with the driver side window not mechanical rolling down.Finally rolled down and never went back up. Had the motor replaced with new ford part from ford dealership repair shop. Within two months, same problem occurred. Yet will only roll a tiny bit down and at angle. Since on warranty, brought back to repair shop. Waited one complete day to learn it's not the motor this time that has gone bad, but the regulator within the door that is causing the window from rolling down completely. Was informed that it's bent and am unable to unbent the bar( regulator) nor switch from different door to defy cost.
This being said, my question which I would like to put out here is this: Besides the huge money outlay I would occur, is there a way I could install this regulator myself? Is it true that I could not obtain the regulator from a different window in my car? Or is there a possible chance that it can be rebent into correct postion again without replacing? I did question this at repair shop, and was told I would not have access to blueprints of car only available to mechanics. Or do you think since i am a female... I received misinformation?
Thank You reading... welcome ideas

#4711 of 6385 Re: Ford explorer Driver window problem: [newyork631] by electricdesign

Dec 21, 2005 (10:14 pm)

Replying to: newyork631 (Dec 21, 2005 9:43 am)
The window regulator was probably the problem from the begining (binding or damaged). They are different on each door because left and right are different, and the front and back are different. If it is messed up, it's best to replace it with a new one, the question is how did it get messed up in the first place? They should last a very long time (10 to 12 years if the mechanisim and the channels are kept lubricated). They are an enormous pain to replace, it is best to let a pro do it. A body shop would probably be cheaper than the dealer, call around, get quotes.
To maintain your window regulators, always spray the mechanisim with WD40 and with spray white grease when you have the inside door cover removed. AND at EACH normal oil change/service spray WD40 in all the channels that the glass slides up and down in, so that the glass always moves easily and smoothly. Also lube all the door hinges the same way at each service.
Good Luck,
E.D in Sunny Florida

#4712 of 6385 my 93 ford explorer by c_douglas

Dec 22, 2005 (8:35 am)

i have a 93 ford explorer. it didnt come with a owners manual and my fuel guage doesnt work. i wanted to know what size gas tank do i have and whats the estimated mileage per gallon, so i can caculate how much gas i have

#4713 of 6385 Re: Ford explorer Driver window problem: [electricdesign] by newyork631

Dec 22, 2005 (9:18 am)

Replying to: electricdesign (Dec 21, 2005 10:14 pm)
Thanks for the info. I wondered myself, how & why this failed but on first repair this was not noted. I have stared at this door at times with a screwdriver in hand, pondering if I attempt this, to repair regulator, I might be opening pandora's box.So instead I posted here. What's the con vs. pro to used regulator vs new? Beside price?

#4714 of 6385 backdoor lock and manufacture door code by ford_suv_rooki

Dec 22, 2005 (10:49 am)

Hi: all,
    I just bought a used 1999 Explorer sport 2door. The owner manual is missed. I wonder why my keyless entry can not lock the backdoor and it seems the key can not turn after inserted into the backdoor lock as I want to lock the door by key.
    Another question: I read some forum and know how to code my personl code on driver door lock. But it seemed to me both my personl code and manufactural code will work at same time. I wonder if I can erase the manufacture code and only make my personal code work to open the door. It is safer and make me more comfortable to keep my stuff inside the truck.
Thank you for any hint. Merry chrismas!!

#4715 of 6385 Loss in gas milage - Please Help by shannonm

Dec 22, 2005 (11:18 am)

Hi all -
 
I am new to this board and have been trying to find an answer to my issue with no luck.
 
I have an 01 XLT with 75,000mi. I have noticed a drop in gas mileage and slight loss in power. I used to always get at least 300-325 a tank and it dropped to 270-290. My fuel filter was changed last summer. I was advised to put the Chevron fuel injector and intake valve cleaner in it. The stuff worked great! My mileage was back up and my slight power loss was gone. Now that I have re-filled my tank, I am back to the poor mileage and slight loss in power. I have also noticed that while sitting at a stop light it idles at about 600rpm and I believe it used to idle at 900-1000rpm. I have not noticed any other problems with it and it seems to run great.
 
Any help or advice I could get would be great. I am hesitant to take it to a repair shop with at least an idea of what my problem may be as I think I have been taken advantage of in the past. Being a single mom around the holidays, I have to watch my money closely.

#4716 of 6385 Auto 4x4 kicking in all the time when it shouldn't. by woodyak

Dec 22, 2005 (11:23 am)

I own a Ford Explorer XLT 2002. About a month ago it would occasionaly start kicking in the auto 4x4 when I backed up and made a sharp turn (like when you pull out of a parking spot). The 4x4 indicator would blink on and off on the console. To get it out of 4x4 I had to hit the 4x4 button and then the auto button. It would take about 30 seconds of driving and then the light would turn off. This is happening frequently now and it's getting kind of annoying. Anyone have any ideas of what this could be?

Messages Page 472 of 639

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