Last post on Oct 26, 2013 at 4:56 AM
You are in the Ford Explorer
What is this discussion about?
Ford Explorer, Mercury Mountaineer
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#4668 of 6400 Re: Looking at a Ford? [mkt1204]
Dec 01, 2005 (4:44 pm)
I found myself a nice 1996 Ford Explorer XLT with only 150,000 miles which was one owner, and I'm the 2nd owner and it has 151,200 miles and it still runs strong like the other 91-94 owner has say about their explorer how well it runs. Sorry to hear about the SOHC owner... condiser replace the motor to a OHV or get urself a 95-96 model if u like that desgin. When I first got the explorer.. the Spark plug was WORN. I would guess it has to be over 100,000 miles of wears because it has over .100 gaps and still runs smooth until I had major tune up and it ran super strong and will spin the tire very easy. I love my explorer. I am happy with mine.
#4669 of 6400 Re: 2005 Factory Running Board Installation [ericdodge]
Dec 01, 2005 (9:13 pm)
Not sure I fully understand the question but here's a stab:I have an '05 XLT with the factory "tube" style boards, this may be what you refer to as aftermarket? If you are looking to change to the full-plastic covered boards, check to see if the mounting brackets/holes are in the same position. Removal of the tubes is easy, I had a 2000 Expy that had them and they rusted, pulled them off and repainted them. Simply remove the rubber step protectors (pop up with a screwdriver) and remove mount bolts. I can't imagine Ford would use different brackets for the enclosed plastic boards, but you never know. My guess is they will bolt right on.
#4670 of 6400 Re: Exploring Explorer Issues [ladyizblue]
Dec 01, 2005 (10:25 pm)
did you buy the 100k, 75k, or 60k miles ESP? and how many miles do you have on your car?
#4671 of 6400 1995 Explorer stalls at start
Dec 05, 2005 (2:58 pm)
"I have a 1994 Ford Explorer. About once a week right after starting the car the idle goes haywire. The engine runs at 250 RPMS instead of the Normal 1000 RPMS. During these times the car stalls out when the driver is not giving it gas. The problem seems to occur more when the engine was been ran recently as opposed to after the car has set all night. Finally, it seems to go away for awhile (2 weeks) after replacing the air filter. Any ideas?
I have bascially the exact same problem with my 95. I start the car and it revs but never maintains idle rpm. Sometimes revving it to 3k helps it catch, other times driving for 5 minutes will do the trick. After reading the threads for the better part of the afternoon, here are possible solutions I'm seeing.
1 Idle Air Control Valve
2 EGR Valve
3 ECT (engine coolant sensor)
4 VZV Valve
Replacing all of these is a little more work than I have time, and I was wondering if anyone with the same problem has had an effective fix for it, or if I should just start replacing parts in the aforementioned order. Thanks.
#4672 of 6400 Re: 1995 Explorer stalls at start [eagle15]
Dec 06, 2005 (2:37 pm)
My 97 model was doing the same thing last year, idled about 250rpm and would only idle if hitting the gas pedal. Oddly, the Check Engine light never came on. Replaced IAC valve, problem solved. It sits on the driver's side of the engine, on the side of the air intake (in the 4.0 ohv engine anyway). 2 bolts hold it in place. Takes maybe 10 minutes to replace. Recently, the EGR valve and sensor had to be replaced. This did cause a check engine light. Also very simple repairs, took about 20 minutes total to replace both.
#4673 of 6400 98 Explorer Heater Box!!
Dec 07, 2005 (9:19 am)
Can anyone tell me what kind of glue I could use to put a patch on a heater box? Also is the heater box made of ABS plastic or what kind? THANKS!!
#4674 of 6400 96 Explorer Automatic Transmission
Dec 07, 2005 (5:35 pm)
I'm having a problem with the automatic transmission on my 96 ford explorer. Well, at least I think that is what is happening! When I start my car in the morning it will not engage into drive with out shifting from park to drive a couple times. I'm not sure what is happening.
My theory, from what people have told me (guess not my theory), is to find a transmission rebuild kit and basically replace all the worn out parts. Is this possible for me to do or is this something only a pro can do. I would really like to try and attempt this since the cost is so much lower. Everyone's input is very much appreciated! Thanks!
#4675 of 6400 Re: 2005 Explorer - Fuel Gauge Problem [electricdesign]
Dec 07, 2005 (6:52 pm)
When you had the sulphur problem with your fuel gauge, how did you fix it? I have the same exact symptoms you mentioned for my fuel guage.
#4676 of 6400 Re: 2005 Explorer - Fuel Gauge Problem [dtownfb]
Dec 07, 2005 (7:33 pm)
It depends on how stong the sulphur content of the gas was. My gauge got stuck at full and remained there for about 2 weeks, then it dropped loose and worked OK after that. Apparently, after the 'bad' gas was gone, it was able to 'break free' and work normally. It all depends on how bad it sticks in the first place, which goes back to how strong the sulphur content was.
The first thing to do is obviously get all the 'bad' gas of of the tank and replace it with good gas. Then drive the car down a bumpy road to try to get the fuel sender to break loose, maybe hit the brakes hard at low speed to make the car bounce. If it won't come loose that way, then its off to the repair shop to pull the tank and replace the sender unit.
E.D. in Sunny Florida
#4677 of 6400 1997 ford explorer keyless entry
Dec 09, 2005 (8:13 am)
I just brought a 1997 ford explorer and would like to know where to find the code for keyless entry