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#4653 of 6400 4 wheel drive won't lock in.
Nov 29, 2005 (9:27 pm)
I have a 1994 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer edition. My son has been driving it but recently I got it back from him. I had a reason to try the 4 wheel drive today and the front end will not lock in. When you push the dash button the light comes on and says it is in 4 x 4 but the front end does not assist. It does not appear to work in either high or low range. I am looking for a place to start trying to figure out the problem. Does anybody have any idea of what to look for or where to test anything to get me started. Really don't want to have to take it to an expensive shop if it might be something simple.
#4654 of 6400 Re: door ajar light [cozzie1]
Nov 30, 2005 (7:18 am)
I have this problem with my 96 XLT sometimes. I have discovered that it is the glass hatch and it has something to do with the latch. I sprayed the glass window hatch mechanism with a good amount of WD-40 and it hasn't happened since. I think this is a Ford issue because I have a co-worker who's Expedition did the exact same thing. Good luck.
#4655 of 6400 Re: Climate Control Blows Hot Air Only!!! [ksb524]
Nov 30, 2005 (9:31 am)
This is a common problem for 95-98 Explorers. Unfortunately, the solution is not simple. We had this problem last week. The solution is to replace the "heater box" which contains the hot/cold air mixing control door. Cost is $700-$900 at a dealer. They have to take the dash aopart to get to this unit. The actuiator is replaced, too. When done, you have nice comfortable Explorer again.
#4656 of 6400 Re: Climate Control Blows Hot Air Only!!! [larry_johnson]
Nov 30, 2005 (10:49 am)
Thanks for answering my question, one more question if you dont mind. I am pretty mechanically inclined and do a lot of my own repairs, is this something that has to be done at a dealership because of special tools or something else or is this something that a person could do at home himself? And is this heater box repairable or have to be replaced? Thanks again.
#4657 of 6400 Re: vibrations in pedals and steering wheel [electricdesign]
Nov 30, 2005 (12:23 pm)
Yes I have had the tires changed around and balanced. The vibration is in the gas & brake pedals and in the steering wheel. I have tried and my friends have tried and we just cannot narrow it down. I kept asking for a general diagnostic but no one will do it. I like my vehicle even though it is rough but i am getting used to that. but to give you an idea how bad it does vibrate is that it tickles my feet after i drive a period of time. I just want to get it fixed thats all. lol not asking for much
#4658 of 6400 Re: vibrations in pedals and steering wheel [crazy3]
Nov 30, 2005 (4:09 pm)
If I understand your post, vibrations are worst when accelerating and decelerating, but never really go away at speed.
U Joints have that characteristic when going bad. They will vibrate badly when accelerating or decelerating, then smooth out at steady speed - the vibration may or may not entirely go away.
Look under driveshafts or drivelines in your yellow pages. You can take it in and have your driveshafts checked for balance and bad u-joints / constant velocity joints.
If the driveshafts check out, then you have c/v joints in your front axles and rear axles. You will need to check the axle shafts. Newer exploders have had some problems with rear axles with the new independent rear suspension.
To possibly get a clue, drive the sploder at the speed that the vibration is worst. Have a friend pace you in the next lane and have him watch for vibrations at each tire - if he can see one vibrating up/down, you have probably found your bad axleshaft, given that you have rebalanced the tires already.
#4659 of 6400 Pedal vibration
Nov 30, 2005 (4:22 pm)
Is it also possible that a motor mount or tranny mount is broken, allowing the engine or tranny to cause the drivetrain to vibrate thru the steering column...hey, could the steering column mounting bolts be loose from the steering box???...something that would make the st wheel vibrate, and don't the pedals either hang from or are stabilized by, the steering column???
#4660 of 6400 2006 Explorer transmission selector lever
Nov 30, 2005 (6:45 pm)
Does anyone know the real reason FoMoCo relocated the transmission selector lever from from the steering column to the console? Could it have anything to do with the all the shifting problems with the 2004-2005 model year transmissions? Or, was it less expensive to manufacture? To me it looks like a beer tap lever behind a bar in a saloon.
#4661 of 6400 Re: 2004 Explorer Limited 4x4 problems [honger88]
Nov 30, 2005 (8:14 pm)
uhhh, I have some problems with this description.
limited-slip axles, often known by the GM trademark Posi-Trak, do NOT lock up, they are conventional differentials. the difference is that there is a preload spring in a posi. with a regular axle, it is possible for one wheel to get on slippery conditions, and it will spin off all the engine power while the wheel on good traction will get none. the preload spring of the posi puts some apparent traction on both wheels, so power will not be blown away on the slipping wheel, but some will also get to the other wheel.
AWD systems have limited-slip axles front and rear, and the LS effect is part of the power distribution system.
a standard 4x4 system utilizes locked differentials, in which yes indeed, both wheels turn lockstep to each other on the same axle. and 4x4 outer wheels WILL HOP when enough energy builds up from holding the tire back when the physics of turning a larger circle with the same turns clearly dictate that the tire has to move faster. this can cause control issues at moderate to highway speeds.
if ford is allowing slip through the hub clutches, it's protecting the tire and protecting the drive system as well.
but that is not the same thing as posi, not at all. they are entirely separate systems.
#4662 of 6400 Re: 4 wheel drive won't lock in. [billk9]
Nov 30, 2005 (11:12 pm)
I had a the same problem with my 94 XLT which has since been retired. The mechanic at the transmission shop told me that there is a motor on the back of the transfer case and that was most likely the problem. I think it was actually a solenoid and not a motor but I never fixed it. I remember looking under the car to see it and thought about disconnecting it and checking it out with a voltmeter to see if I was getting any power there. I never got to trouble-shooting it but I think that would be a good place to start.