Last post on Oct 26, 2013 at 4:56 AM
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Ford Explorer, Mercury Mountaineer
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#4330 of 6400 Re: 2004 Ford Explorer Transmission Problems - PLEASE HELP!! [skylerlee]
Sep 08, 2005 (9:49 pm)
So it looks like you got approximately 60K out of both transmissions. I do not think this is normal. However, an attorney will not do you any good. It will cost you more for legal advice/court costs than putting another transmission in it. I would suggest buying another low miles 2001 or 2002 Explorer if you can afford it. Make sure you buy an ESP Ford backed warranty on these as well. Shop the net for an extended warranty.
Both www.fordwarranty.com and www.fordwarrantys.com offer much better prices than the dealer.
#4331 of 6400 Re: 2004 Ford Explorer Transmission Problems - PLEASE HELP!! [skylerlee]
Sep 09, 2005 (3:32 am)
Sorry to say I have no good news for you. I have had extensive experience with the early Explorer Transmissions. All the 1991 to 1994 have the same 4.0L V6 engine and the same A4LD automatic transmission. I had a 1991, one of the first produced, and a 1993, I had to rebuild the transmission in both of them. I am a tech and I did it myself, and I can say they are crap and not designed to last, hench the nomenclature that they give the transmission, Automatic 4 speed Light Duty. It is a modified C3 part french, part german made transmission that does not belong in a truck, not even good for a small car. The C4's that they used in the earlier car's, mustang's, etc, were much stronger. The only way they could last is if they were totally babied. If anyone had a good one, they were one of the few lucky ones. I have posted here on Edmunds for many years about how bad these transmissions are.
The Bottom line is - Get rid of it and find something better. Be sure to do your reseach first!
#4332 of 6400 Gear shift lever broken-Ford Expl 2002 -please help !
Sep 09, 2005 (5:38 am)
I own a Ford Explorer 2002 and the gear shift lever has been broken. I was able to take apart the broken part. The dealer has told me over the phone, that I need the whole steering column which is more expensive. More than that, myself and the car I'm located overseas but I have a friend in New York who can order the broken part from someone willing to locate a dealer or used auto shop which can sell only that part.
To any member who can help me, please provide the e-mail address where I can send pictures of the broken part.
Maybe someone can help me locate a place from where to order the part with the help of my friend.
#4333 of 6400 Re: 2004 Ford Explorer Transmission Problems - PLEASE HELP!! [electricdesign]
Sep 09, 2005 (11:20 am)
Guess I was lucky. My 94 Eddie Bauer Explorer is still going on the original transmission at 140,000 miles. I had it serviced every 30,000 miles, and didn't tow with that car, but didn't baby it either. It went through some bad years at the end, when my son had it, and still held up. He gave it to his girlfriend at 120,000 miles. She put another 20,000 on it, and sold it. The engine is getting loose, and the tranny sometimes flubs a gear, but she's still going. I considered it one of the best cars I've ever owned.
#4334 of 6400 Re: Transmission noise when accelerating [explorer02]
Sep 09, 2005 (12:07 pm)
My Explorer also has a very annoying noise when accelerating. Only occurs during acceleration ... like a strange grinding noise under the car. I've taken it to my ford dealer twice ... they kept looking for something loose and thus have not repaired anything yet. My husband is guessing a heat shield or bearing ... if you have any ideas, please let me know so I don't waste a 3rd trip to the ford dealer.
#4335 of 6400 Re: backup system [swschrad]
Sep 09, 2005 (12:58 pm)
Thanks. I printed that out and now have some ideas of what to try. Now all I have to do is see how easy it is to get info from Alldata.
Any progress with this? My backup warning sounds even when nothing is behind me. I'd like to figure out how to test the components without just replacing parts by chance.
#4336 of 6400 cigarette lighter
Sep 09, 2005 (3:24 pm)
i need some help i was getting a dime out of my power adapter it is not a cigarette lighter it is just an adapter anyway i was getting the dime out with a knife and i sparked something down in the adapter anyway now it is not working and i guess i tested the right fuses and if they were the correct ones then they all work so maybe i am not testing the right one or there is another problem could someone help me or tell me where the correct fuse is located i travel alot with 3 kids by myself and i need this adapter to work so i can charge my phone so could someone please help me i am beggeing
Sep 09, 2005 (4:27 pm)
heard much about the liftglass problems (lower section) 02-05. had ours replaced - and now it seems to have popped off in one section, dealer said they would replace for free. first i have heard of a replaced part failing. anyone else have this happen?
#4338 of 6400 Re: backup system [nvbanker]
Sep 09, 2005 (5:52 pm)
all sensors are same in the factory backup aid... with both an IR transmitter and receiver in the sensor. if one goes open, and I had one knocked out in a rear-ender a couple years ago, the system works with a small dead spot in a 4-sensor unit like I have. I suspect I have a short or something to cause my system to be locked down. but I haven't had the time to find it with the insufficient data ford provides.
#4339 of 6400 Re: backup system [techie]
Sep 09, 2005 (6:04 pm)
it's real easy to get the data out of alldata DIY, subscribe your vehicle for something like $20 annually, then search on backup aid. alas, the indexing is a little funky on the service, but the diagnostic printout, something like 8 or 10 pages, is the goldmine. if you also have the wiring book for the truck from ford, it will show you where the backup aid electronics are. but if it's a 99 through 01 explorer, it's behind the jack panel above left rear wheel.. almost directly over the wheel is a little black abs electronics module about dollar sized and a half inch thick, with two screws and one connector. that's the baby. test from there.
you can get the front switch out by using putty knives top and bottom to press the locking tabs inward, and then pull the switch body out. the sensors have overclip connectors that all point to the right rear, you might want to spray some silicone or lithium grease to disconnect them as road gunk will have them clinging.
to get the sensors out of their clips, push in on the sensor lens with your thumb, while using a little 1/16 inch screwdriver blade to gently, gently lift the lock tabs top and bottom rear (the lens is the front). you do one, the sensor should slightly rock back, more felt than seen. then gently, gently lift the other tab while still pushing with your thumb as if you were going to charge $25 for a pork chop in a meat market, and the sensor will click free of both clips. now it's just pushing it out against the road dust and crud. don't mess with the clips except to wet a finger and rub the crud out, so reinserting sensors is easy.
I had to spray the connector on both inboard sensors through the clip using an extention nozzle, wiggle them a little, and then I could see to lift the clip gently, gently with the 1/16 inch screwdriver through the clip and work the connector off the sensor with one hand. it goes easier if you crank down and remove the spare, I suppose, but that was too many operations in a row for a "quick" afternoon working