6386 messages,
Last post on May 27, 2013 at 6:07 PM
You are in the
Ford Explorer Forum.
What is this discussion about?
Ford Explorer, Mercury Mountaineer
Go to NHTSA to file a safety complaint.
Or call Monday-Friday (8 am to 8 pm ET) (888) 327-4236 TTY: (800)424-9153
#4026 of 6386 I NEED HELP RE: CLUTCHES
by hiskris
Jul 13, 2005 (11:03 am)
Hi.. 3 days ago my son purchased a 1992 ford explorer (stick). He had 3 driving lessons in it totalling a little over 2 hours worth... I drove it the remaining times. The clutch went on the 3rd day. mechanic says the clutch was new... put in two years ago to this day... and a little over 20,000 miles put on it.... my question is this... could we possibly have destroyed a clutch in less than 3 days of driving around town? He seems to be blaming this problem on my son not knowing how to properly drive a stick... but i was with him each of the 3 times he was out learning and KNOW he didn't ruin the clutch....(and i KNOW i didn't either) .... any one have any ideas???? think it's going to be a battle trying to get the $1,700 back that we paid for it... everyone i've talked to says there's no WAY he could have destroyed a clutch in such little time... anyone have this problem???
#4027 of 6386 I NEED HELP RE: CLUTCHES by hiskris
by lateralg
Jul 13, 2005 (12:08 pm)
It depends on how the clutch failed.
If the friction material or pressure plate has been scattered, this can occur easily by selecting too low a gear when downshifting. Clutch doesn't even have to be engaged. If first gear is engaged in the transmission when fourth was intended, the clutch will over-rev & possibly self-destruct.
If the friction material is worn out or burned up, that's another story. I can destroy a clutch in less than an hour. But, it sounds like you were with the vehicle all the time & didn't observe excessive clutch slipping.
So, if you're sure neither of the above circumstances occurred, you're probably right. However, even the auto manufacturers cinsider the clutch a wear item with a wear rate much dependent on driver habits. After 2 years & 20,000 miles, I doubt that there's a service shop on the planet that would give you a free replacement.
I suspect that the clutch was on its last legs when you bought the vehicle. A more thorough inspection & evaluation might have saved you a lot of grief & $$.
FWIW, I think the mechanic is way off base trying to blame your son.
#4028 of 6386 Re: Rear Door Hatch Hinges [shan4]
by keithsmaxx
Jul 13, 2005 (4:21 pm)
I have a similar problem with a 1998. I just doesn't close well. eventually it got so bad that It wouldn't close at all. Had the hinges replaced and reinforced, but the problem is coming back. I would be interested to hear if you find out anything.
#4029 of 6386 Re: I NEED HELP RE: CLUTCHES [hiskris]
by explorerx4
Jul 13, 2005 (7:08 pm)
my wife had a '91 explorer with a manual transmission. she had it for 83k. it still had the original clutch. i would agree that it would be difficult to destroy a clutch in so few miles. another thing that comes to mind is that one time i pulled a friends astro minvan and their 19 foot boat up a boat steep ramp after they couldn' get up out of the water. the clutch smelled really bad for a few minutes, but we drove it for several years after that with no problem.
#4030 of 6386 remanufactured half shaft leaking at differential axle seal
by 97mntr
Jul 13, 2005 (7:17 pm)
Hi,
I cut a boot on my CV joint, so I installed a remanufactured left Half Shaft (Cardone 60-2101) and a new axle seal (National 710429, which matches the OEM seal exactly) into my 97 Mountaineer. Now the axle seal leaks. The remanufactured axle journal fits very loosely into the axle seal. The journal measures 1.401 inches. Does anyone know what a Ford left half shaft axle journal measures (I had to return my OEM shaft for the core)? A brand new Cardone left Half Shaft measures the same as the Cardone remanufactured.
Thanks for the help... if the OEM journal is larger than 1.401, I'll have to order up a Ford OEM shaft ($200 vs the $60 for the remanufactured).
#4031 of 6386 Re: remanufactured half shaft leaking at differential axle seal [97mntr]
by electricdesign
Jul 13, 2005 (7:30 pm)
Define "very loosly". Is there any gap between the journal and the seal lip? Are you sure the opening in the seal is not too large? Does the seal have the circular spring behind the sealing lip?
#4032 of 6386 Re: remanufactured half shaft leaking at differential axle seal [electricdesign]
by 97mntr
Jul 13, 2005 (7:40 pm)
The journal fits into the seal with only slight interference. There is no gap. There is a circular spring behind the lip. I suspect the journal for two reasons...1) the seal matches the exact same numbers as the OEM seal that I pulled out; 2) I don't know how Cardone can refinish/grind/polish the used axle journal without removing some metal (unless they weld back in some material, but I don't see any evidence of that).
thanks,,,,
#4033 of 6386 Re: plug fouling [exploded99]
by ogbonna
Jul 14, 2005 (7:26 am)
WET. But it does not feel like oil and there is no smoke, also I think I may need to
replace one of my O2 sensors (there are 3) the one after the converter, could this be the problem source. BTW thanks for the response....
#4034 of 6386 Re: plug fouling [electricdesign]
by ogbonna
Jul 14, 2005 (7:34 am)
Thanks for the response. Wet, About a week after change
Do you think O2 replacement would take care of the problem,
We have not done a comp test yet.
#4035 of 6386 1996 Ford Explorer A/C problem
by markz
Jul 14, 2005 (7:52 am)
I have a 1996 Ford Explorer which recently started a clicking sound. When I popped the hood, I noticed that one of the pulleys in the belt system (labeled as A/C) was turning on/off every 20 or so seconds. The other problem is that the A/C doesn't work (no cold air -- though the fans work fine).
Any ideas what might be the problem?
Thannks in advance