Last post on May 05, 2013 at 7:47 AM
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Ford Explorer, Mercury Mountaineer
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Jul 06, 2005 (8:10 am)
I have 1998 Explorer Limited, 5.0V-8. The check engine light came on and I have found the EGR tube (from the manifold to the EGR valve) is cracked. Also the Number 1 &2 O2 sensor monitor is bad. Does anyone know where to get the Tube and/or the O2 sensor monitor? Can they only be gotten from Ford? My local dealer is know for Overpricing by a huge amount if you want to do the work yourself.
Jul 06, 2005 (9:10 am)
somebody has to know whats up with message #3854 i cant find any help.please please help!
#3969 of 6385 Re: Tickedoff2 [nvbanker]
Jul 06, 2005 (10:39 am)
nvbanker, I have been in contact with FoMoCo since your last post, I am satisfied it is they and not the dealer who will not authorize any further attempts to correct the violent random operation of the transmission. The dealer's position is that he is quite willing to keep working on it but Ford needs to tell him what to do to fix it, and of course reimburse the dealer for his efforts. The dealer has suggested I try another dealer, I will do this but am confident they will not do warranty work on this problem-FoMoCo has it noted in their Customer Relations Computer that their engineer has declared the transmission normal, therefore no warranty work by any dealer. Judging from your screen name: I suspect you know that he who controls the money controls just about everything in these situations. I am requesting that the Dispute Resolution Board takes a look at this, as well as the NHTSA/ODI. Thank you for the responses, I will post any noteworthy information that may come my way. The only way those of us who are getting the runaround from Ford Motor Company to get any satisfaction is spread the word and take the time and money necessary to give this issue a lot of notoriety and cause pressure from various agencies
#3970 of 6385 Re: transmission problem [exploded99]
Jul 06, 2005 (11:16 am)
what a great guy thanks very much for your time to reply,i will answer you as best as i can.
there is no clunk when i use the gear shift in any of the gears there is no noise from the gears at all they are as smooth as silk.
when in cruise control and the engine needs more power and the auto cruise control works as it should its then the clunking and rough ride comes into its own you have to hold on to the wheel because the steering goes all over the place and is very very light,i then have to touch the break pedal to cut out the cruise control and slow the car down the noise stops and the car is normal again,untill i accellerate away again but very gently the noise reappears but no where as bad obviousley less torque is being applied,once it got so bad i stopped the car on the moterway and i kicked the left hand wheel,in temper got back in the car and believe it or not the car drove perfect for the next 100 miles or so using heavey accelleration and the cruise control it drives like a dream and very fast when everything works .so that brings me back to my first thoughts that as it is intermittent i believe strongly that it is an electrical problem.
there has been no warning lights on and the overdrive light has never flashed ,the overdrive works as it should as quite often i use it as breaking on inclines.
i am driving in four wheel drive auto at all times ,but saying that i have had no problems in engaging high or low and all work as they should
i do not have a two wheel drive position
the suspension i am not to sure i have an isolation switch which must be turned of when jacking up the car or in suspended tow.
i strongly like your idea about the sensor clutch pack problem,also i have tried to locate the speed sensors because it actually feels like the drive shaft is trying to engage but cannot.
as to speeds when you move of steady there is very minor noise and clunking but as you speed up the clunking gets louder if you accellerate hard it is very bad,but i must point out when everything is ok you can accellerate as fast as you like and as hard as you like and she flies and i mean flies so responsive and quick its
a dream to drive,
lastly i was in france a week ago i got of the ferry and the noise and clunking was still there i settled down at 70mph for 100miles just a gentle drive and hardley any noise ,when i applied the gas peddle to go up hill the clunking gets worse but with control you can live with it,any how i had to slow down for the paeage (toll booth) as i approached the booth i just touched the kerb with my left wheel,i stopped payed the man and you guessed it the knockes and rough ride had completly gone i could cruise at a ton for the next 150 miles no problems with cruise control on and when that engine kicks in for more power she flies and there is not an inkling that there is nothing wrong,pulled in for gas and yes it was back just the same as it was when i got of the ferry. it has to be electricalo!!!!!
thanks again pete.
#3971 of 6385 leak - electricdesign
Jul 06, 2005 (12:44 pm)
it's leaking from the same spot everytime, which was in the middle between the 2 rear wheels. according to the paperworks, the first time they replaced both left and right seals. then the 2nd time, the service advisor verbally over the phone said to me they had to replace the entire real axle, but not sure if they really did (and it's my fault that i didn't pay attn to what was written on paper because i got too excited about the new real axle thinking it would solve the problem). the 3rd time, they replaced the left seal. i'm not sure if all the seals were the same, but the part number was.
Here is what's written on the work orders ( i don't have the first one in front of me so it will be for the 2nd time and 3rd time):
J# 47F0Z09 Diff Fluid Leak
- customer states differential fluid leaking
- rt side axle was grooved and causing seal to leak
- axle 4K138 - racked vehicle and verified leak
- cleaned area and added dye
- road tested and then repacked vehicle, checked with blk light
- found leak at rt side axle seal
- removed rt side axle assem and inspected - found axle grooved
- replaced axle and seal on the right side
- reassembled and road tested again (ok)
3L1Z-4A109-AA (KIT SE RR AX H)
1L2Z-4K138-CB (SHIFT & JT ASY)
J# 47F0Z01 Axle Concern
-customer states rear end differential leaking fluid ck and advise
-check for leak at rear diff concern
-verified fluid at left axle area
-possible seal concern
-remove left rear axle and remove seal and install new axle seal
-reinstall axle and top off fluid in diff
-no leak seen
3L1Z-4A109-AA (KIT - SHAFT RE)
10081 (PARTS CLEANER)
hmmmmmm... come to think about it, they did not even disassemble the axle to check for the problem this very last time and instead they just replaced the seal
#3972 of 6385 in addition to my msg...
Jul 06, 2005 (12:58 pm)
i have NEVER seen and drops coming from neither the right nor left rear wheels... it's always been in the middle
also, they have never mentioned what kind of fluid they used after each fix. the first time it leaked, the fluid was kind of a light greyish color (i supposed that's the synthetic) and the second time and 3rd time it's kind of a brownish color.
#3973 of 6385 Re: transmission problem [ptruckle]
Jul 06, 2005 (1:50 pm)
Well, since you have an intermittent problem, try this:
Put the truck in 4wd HIGH and drive it a ways on dry pavement. Normally you would not do this, but lets see if it produces the same noises and syptoms as 4wd AUTO
in 4wd HIGH you will lock the transfer case clutch pack, and be in 100% four wheel drive. Your front axle will have to get rid of the "windup" in the front axle, and my guess is that you will have the same issues.
Remember to go back to 4wd auto when you are done.
#3974 of 6385 Re: exploded99 [electricdesign]
Jul 06, 2005 (1:53 pm)
Hey, thanks for all that. I was curious as to just what was going wrong with these diffs.
Do you think the pinion bearings are underdesigned for the application? I can't believe these are all being set up wrong at the factory. Have they gone to tougher bearings?
#3975 of 6385 Rear Door Hatch Hinges
Jul 06, 2005 (3:29 pm)
I have never had an accident with this 2000 Explorer. I live on dirt roads but this is a SUV. The hinges on my rear door have given out. The whole door has to be replaced. I had taken it to the dealer last year to have it looked into under my 75,000 mile warranty. They suggested having the whole door replaced but they couldn't do anything about it. I took it back at the end of this June to have the door replaced. In contacting customer relations at Ford they said, sorry can't help you for you aren't under the 31,000 mile warranty. My dealer says, can't help you, not under warranty. The zone rep won't return calls to the repair guy and he can't give out the zone rep's number. Has anyone else had a problem with the hinges or do I just have a real lemon?