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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

6385 messages,  Last post on May 05, 2013 at 7:47 AM

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What is this discussion about? Ford Explorer, Mercury Mountaineer

    

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Messages Page 373 of 640

#3713 of 6385 96 Explorer XLT 5.0 V8 Electrical mystery by tommygunn701

May 27, 2005 (7:38 am)

Replying to: goforsomenelse (May 21, 2005 4:44 pm)
My 1996 Ford Explorer has blown the 15 volt fuse associated with trailer/abs and a couple other functions in the main fuse box twice. The problem was brought to my attention by the battery dummy light on my instrument panel flickering occasionally. I also have had some major problems with my factory trailer light wiring. As the yellow wire snapped right at the back of the 4 prong connector I replaced the plug, all associated wires never worked again. I checked all wires as far back as the relay in the inside rear compartment hatch (where the jack is stored) and determined the relay was good but there was no juice reaching this relay, determining the problem was in the wiring up from the rear. After hours of ruling out other problems, ie all fuses good, all other systems okay, I have come to two solutions. The first is to make this someone elses problem and get charged mightly by a dealership, or re-rig the trailer light kit from the working tailights to bypass the faulty circuit, however I don't like knowing my ABS associated fuse keeps blowing as I may need the old pulse in an emergency stop. Any suggestions!!??

#3714 of 6385 Re: transmission problems [nvbanker] by david58

May 27, 2005 (10:53 am)

Replying to: nvbanker (May 22, 2005 9:30 pm)
What "large group of transmissions" is affected? My own is an early 2002 (built May, 2001) 2WD V-8, and is exhibiting rough shifting at 45,000 miles.

#3715 of 6385 Re: Spun Front Main Bearing- Ruined Engine [bmoyers] by wayne73

May 27, 2005 (11:42 am)

Replying to: bmoyers (Sep 30, 2003 12:18 pm)
bmoyers,
 
this exact same problem just occured w/ my 2003 explorer eddie bauer, i took it to the dealership and they are telling me the engine is "warped" and is completely shot, my car is at 37,000 miles only 1,000 miles past warrenty and there telling me that ford won't cover any of the price for a either a crate engine, rebuilt engine, or a salvage motor..... what should i do....get in contact w/ a lemon attortney ?

#3716 of 6385 Re: transmission problems [david58] by nvbanker

May 27, 2005 (2:39 pm)

Replying to: david58 (May 27, 2005 10:53 am)
Well, it wouldn't be yours - it's late 2003-early 2004 models, the 5 speed french built automatic.

#3717 of 6385 Re: Spun Front Main Bearing- Ruined Engine [wayne73] by nvbanker

May 27, 2005 (2:41 pm)

Replying to: wayne73 (May 27, 2005 11:42 am)
That one I'd trade in, but what in the world will cause that to happen? I've never heard of this before?

#3718 of 6385 My air conditioner won't work on a hot day but works fine when its cold? by qwertfl

May 27, 2005 (4:01 pm)

Ohhh the irony. The air conditioner will work on occasion when its hot outside but this is rare. The air temperature (when working) is fine. I also noticed that it works fine on a cool day. Could there be a problem with the compressor? Is there some sort of temperature gauge that has gone haywire?
 
Thanks for reading!
- J

#3719 of 6385 Re: My air conditioner won't work on a hot day but works fine when its cold? [qwertfl] by electricdesign

May 27, 2005 (4:51 pm)

Replying to: qwertfl (May 27, 2005 4:01 pm)
You did not give enough information. What Year, What Engine? Does it keeps blowing air, just sometimes not cold? Raise your hood and see if the compressor is engaged and turning. The belt goes around the outside parts, so that it turns all the time. Look at the center part. It should turn if it is engaged "on". Tell us if the clutch is staying on. If the clutch does stay on all the time the the A/C is on MAX COOL, HIGH BLOWER, and it does not cool well, you have to put a set of gauges on it and read the pressures on the low side and high side. This should only be done by someone who knows what they are doing! When it is cooling good at idle, the Low side should be about 25 to 30 lbs, and the high side should be about 200 to 235 lbs. If the pressures are wrong, the refrigerant charge is likely off, maybe leaked out some, and will need to be repaired and serviced. When adding refrigerant NEVER allow the high side to go over 250 lbs. Check airflow through the radiator and the radiatior fan clutch to be sure is draws plenty of air through the radiator.
Hope that helps,
E.D.

#3720 of 6385 Re: Spun Front Main Bearing- Ruined Engine [wayne73] by madijo

May 27, 2005 (7:28 pm)

Replying to: wayne73 (May 27, 2005 11:42 am)
I believe that the lemon law is only good during the first 12 months 12k miles. I would suggest using the Dispute Resolution Board. You can find the info in the rear of your owners manual. You must have good records or paperwork and remember you get further using honey. I had a 2002 Mountaineer bought back in 2004 using this method.
It was because Ford and the Board did resolve the issue that I purchased another Ford product. ">

#3721 of 6385 Re: Not that you don't have other problems..... [opera_house_wk]tr [frenchpearson] [webmyzer] by kburrows

May 27, 2005 (10:30 pm)

Replying to: webmyzer (Mar 24, 2005 6:46 pm)
Weber,
 
I just bought a 97 with 111k miles. It started doing the same thing. The dealer wants $2063 out the door for a new transfer case. This is too much for me. Could you email me and let me know how you did yours. I have the haynes book on the truck and I am very good with tools and fixing things. Had dirt bikes and have worked on my 140 hp johnson outboard. I would rather have someone else do it but cannot spend 2000 on the job. Can a local 4x4 truck repair shop do the work ok? or does it have to be someone that is trained on Fords? please give me an email.
kevinpaulaarilion.com

#3722 of 6385 Re: Not that you don't have other problems..... [opera_house_wk]tr [frenchpearson] [webmyzer] [kburrows] by exploded99

May 27, 2005 (11:50 pm)

Replying to: kburrows (May 27, 2005 10:30 pm)
There are complete parts kits on the internet - $200 to $300 depending on model and whether you buy a new chain. The awd types can get pricey if you have one of those as they have a fluid clutch to engage the front axle, and that is pricey if you replace it.
 
If you subscribe to alldatadiy.com you will have access to detailed repair instructions, torque specs, etc. Some special tools required - gear pullers, snap ring pliers, and some others. About 250 ft lbs of torque on the output shaft nut is required, so access to more than a 3/8 drive socket set will be needed.
 
You might also check the wrecking yards, and pull one out of a rollover. Check around for prices, I think you will find this will cost near the same price as the parts kit. I now get most of the expensive stuff out of the junk yards for my 99.
 
And finally, I cannot remember the name of the place online, but you can order a rebuilt one with warranty for $600 to $800 or so.
 
You need to know the model of your transfer case for all this of course. You will be able to do that when you research parts kits and rebuilts online - some of the sites have info to help you with this. Twisting your own wrenches can definitely save you some money on this one.

Messages Page 373 of 640

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