Last post on May 05, 2013 at 7:47 AM
You are in the Ford Explorer
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Ford Explorer, Mercury Mountaineer
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#3705 of 6385 Re: 1994 Explorer stalling when idle [kwidge]
May 24, 2005 (7:08 am)
Sounds like the idle air control valve. As it's name implies, this part is reponsible for keeping the engine going while at idle.
It is very easy to replace, and very inexpensive to try.
Find a forum like fordtruck, or similar, do a search for idle air control valve, and there will be instructions for replacing it. It should be located right on top of the engine compartment, has one or two bolts, one electical connection. I replaced my wife's on her 98 Explorer b/c it was getting stuck open and sounded like a fog horn. Cost was about $60 for the part.
About 6 months earlier, I had the same part on my ford car replaced by ford (before I knew what was causing this) at a cost of $200
#3706 of 6385 Re: Check engine egr problem [sailinmon]
May 24, 2005 (7:23 am)
After the work is done, don't you still have to have the error codes 'cleared'?
#3707 of 6385 DriveTrain whine
May 24, 2005 (12:39 pm)
I have a 1997 Explorer XLT 4WD. I had some trouble with the front end feeling like it was binding when I would back up. I found out that this was being caused by a speed sensor now that the speed sensor has been fixed it has a whine that changes with the speed of the car. I did not have the whine until I picked the car up from the shop. I took it back and have been told that they are unrelated. My question is could the diff or any of the drivtrain be damaged when the sesors are replaced that would cause a noise?
#3708 of 6385 Re: Transmission trouble [beckyr]
May 25, 2005 (8:29 am)
I have a 2001 explorer limited and it is doing the same thing it has 92k miles on it where did u find that solenoid and its location i wouldnt mind installing it myself Please help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1
May 25, 2005 (8:44 am)
We have a 1999 explorer which has its normal share of problems. Recently the interior and courtesy lights will come on and stay on without any action on our part. Initially it happened only if we locked the vehicle with the switch at the rear gate. Locking with the remote seemed to solve the problem. In the past week they have started to come on however the vehicle is locked. If we press the remote locking, the lights go off but come back on again in an intermittent pattern. Currently they come on for varying lenghth of time, shutting themselves off after a few minutes, only to come back on a minute or two later.
This vehicle does not seem to have a fuse that covers only the interior lights, or I would leave them off.
A second issue that may or may not be related is that the daytime running lights have ceased to function entirely. This was first noticed a few months ago.
#3710 of 6385 Re: 93 Explorer factory car alarm problem [dpsexplorer]
May 26, 2005 (3:04 pm)
So I'm curious what happened with this. I also have a 93 Explorer and I can shed a little info into what happened: the alarm module (in the back, on the left side) got wet. (My leak came from the window above, but definitely exactly the same result...twice waking up me (and my neighbors) when it rained at 3am. The first time it blew my horn out. The second time I pulled the horn fuse in time, but even though it's dried out, it now just goes off every time you open the doors (even when it's unlocked). I'd like to just disable the alarm system completely so I can put my horn fuse back in (And there's nothing valuable ever in my car anyway). Any ideas?
#3711 of 6385 door ajar
May 26, 2005 (5:31 pm)
I have the exact problem, though not quite as frequently. Did you ever find a fix?
#3712 of 6385 Re: Interior lights [rroettger]
May 26, 2005 (5:51 pm)
Sounds like you have a failing sensor at one of the doors or rear window that is sensing open, when it should sense the door or window is actually closed. This will turn those lights on. If the tolerances are too close, a change in temperature will do this, ie; when the car cools off, the switch will open up, turning the lights on, which can explain the overnight phenomenon. The key will be to isolate the offending door or see if it's the liftgate or liftgate glass sensor, and replace it. How you do that, can be tough, but if you find it in the faulted condition, you can start opening and closing one door or the window at a time, until they go off, and you may locate it that way.
#3713 of 6385 96 Explorer XLT 5.0 V8 Electrical mystery
May 27, 2005 (7:38 am)
My 1996 Ford Explorer has blown the 15 volt fuse associated with trailer/abs and a couple other functions in the main fuse box twice. The problem was brought to my attention by the battery dummy light on my instrument panel flickering occasionally. I also have had some major problems with my factory trailer light wiring. As the yellow wire snapped right at the back of the 4 prong connector I replaced the plug, all associated wires never worked again. I checked all wires as far back as the relay in the inside rear compartment hatch (where the jack is stored) and determined the relay was good but there was no juice reaching this relay, determining the problem was in the wiring up from the rear. After hours of ruling out other problems, ie all fuses good, all other systems okay, I have come to two solutions. The first is to make this someone elses problem and get charged mightly by a dealership, or re-rig the trailer light kit from the working tailights to bypass the faulty circuit, however I don't like knowing my ABS associated fuse keeps blowing as I may need the old pulse in an emergency stop. Any suggestions!!??
#3714 of 6385 Re: transmission problems [nvbanker]
May 27, 2005 (10:53 am)
What "large group of transmissions" is affected? My own is an early 2002 (built May, 2001) 2WD V-8, and is exhibiting rough shifting at 45,000 miles.